9A Reverse Idler Stud Repair

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Bob Leistner

Plastic

Joined

Feb 3, 2010

Location

Pgh PA USA

• Apr 7, 2021

• #1

Could I chuck up the front portion of the stud and drill into it,then tap it for , say 5/16"?Then bolt it in from behind the bracket. Since I am new to this it seems as though this would be my safest option.

 

johnoder

Diamond

Joined

Jul 16, 2004

Location

Houston, TX USA

• Apr 7, 2021

• #2

Bob Leistner said:

Could I chuck up the front portion of the stud and drill into it,then tap it for , say 5/16"?Then bolt it in from behind the bracket. Since I am new to this it seems as though this would be my safest option.

Click to expand...

See if its hardened or not with a file. Silly to try to repair something you cannot cut on or drill - way less effort to make a new one

 

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tommy1010

Stainless

Joined

Apr 21, 2010

Location

northeastern Pa, USA

• Apr 7, 2021

• #3

Post a pic of what you are trying to fix. I may have something here to replace what you have.

 

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Bob Leistner

Plastic

Joined

Feb 3, 2010

Location

Pgh PA USA

• Apr 7, 2021

• #4

I hope this is the photos of the idler gear stud

 

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tommy1010

Stainless

Joined

Apr 21, 2010

Location

northeastern Pa, USA

• Apr 7, 2021

• #5

I know I have those bolts from a newer SB nine. Give me a bit of time to see if I can help you. If I have them I will ship them to you. Post a pic of the headstock. Is that a Junior?

 

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Bob Leistner

Plastic

Joined

Feb 3, 2010

Location

Pgh PA USA

• Apr 7, 2021

• #6

It is a 9A with a 4 ft. bed QCGB and Silent Drive. Where it broke looks like cast iron and maybe 1/4".Very coarse grain structure unlike any bolt that I have ever seen.I would guess that even 10Ft-Lbs. of tightening would be asking for trouble.

 

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tommy1010

Stainless

Joined

Apr 21, 2010

Location

northeastern Pa, USA

• Apr 9, 2021

• #7

Bob, That reverser you have there has to be from a Junior 9". They were larger than the newer 9" lathes that are more popular at this time. I looked high and low and only have the newer reverser bolts. Looking at your dimensions in the pic mine are 1/2" shorter. Sorry I could not be of any help. I think the plan you have to drill and tap may work or just have a go at making a complete bolt. Good luck.

 

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Bob Leistner

Plastic

Joined

Feb 3, 2010

Location

Pgh PA USA

• Apr 9, 2021

• #8

Oh well, thank you for looking.

 

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Bob Leistner

Plastic

Joined

Feb 3, 2010

Location

Pgh PA USA

• Apr 12, 2021

• #9

After looking at the 1928 version of "How To Run a Lathe", it appears that the conversion to the new style started in 1925.
I tried to figure out the search without any success.
So, is this lathe now actually a type "N"?
I hope I am not reinventing the wheel.
My reverse bracket is held on by two machine screws and a small block at the bottom of the bracket. The stud measurements on mine is 1.5" OAL, first step is .5",the second step is .375" and .3125" thread.So this is apparently an interim design(?) that was used for a short time.
The junior looks the same but the first step is .625", so not the same.
I always seem to be the oddball.....

 

johnoder

Diamond

Joined

Jul 16, 2004

Location

Houston, TX USA

• Apr 16, 2021

• #10

So, is this lathe now actually a type "N"?

Click to expand...

Nope - as long as it has the "star" knob for shifting feeds on face of apron it is a Series O - which means it is not a "model A" as they came along later - even though it has the QC gearbox - and those later 9" were lighter built - and THAT is where Model A, B and C occur

If you have yet to do so, go to here The SBL Workshop , then to catalogs and look at the Catalog No. 94, and on page 24 you'll find a close relative to your 382(?) at the top of page 24

 

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chipss

Cast Iron

Joined

Jul 19, 2020

• Apr 18, 2021

• #11

Put the good bolt and gear in the other hole so you have the feed working and whittle yourself a new one. The hardest thing about making it seems to be making the oiling slot where the felt is.

 

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Bob Leistner

Plastic

Joined

Feb 3, 2010

Location

Pgh PA USA

• Apr 18, 2021

• #12

Thank you John and Chipss. I am really new to this part of the world and trying hard to catch up.Any ideas as to why there seems to be so many different twin gear studs? I have resigned myself to making one when I get this back together.At least now,I know what to call it.

 

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chipss

Cast Iron

Joined

Jul 19, 2020

• Apr 22, 2021

• #13

Here's a tip if you want to make your bolt.

Use a piece of stock about 6" long. Machine the bolt with all of the right dimensions and thread it without removing it from the lathe.

Then take the 6" piece out of the lathe to be chucked up in a milling machine to cut the groove for the oiling felt.
At some time drill the cross hole for oil.

Then back into the lathe to part the now almost finished part off of the long piece of stock. Drill the hole in the end of your new bolt and it's done.