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belt for 9 inch workshop, circa 1938.

Ralph63

Plastic
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Hi all, Ive searched, got 60 pages of results, life is too short to read them all, most of them obsolete by age.

my belt is 50.75 inches, 1 inch wide.

Its stuffed, perished, it broke today, just did a makeshift re-join of the clips, it wont last long, the leather is falling apart.

After looking at you tube clips, im interested in a modern type glue joint belt.

I do not want to strip it down to fit a single piece, such as serpentine, belt. I researched the serpentine is the way to go but I just don't want to strip the lathe down to fit it.

who and where sells the glue to join modern belt?

maybe ive got this wrong, is there a better way?

kindest regards
Ralph
 
You don't have to take your lathe apart to use an automotive serpentine belt if you're willing to do a laced joint. The lace pattern is shown in "How to run a lathe" and you can use monofilament fishing line for the laces. Punch the holes in the belt for the laces--do NOT drill them. Properly done, the lacing won't pull out and should last a long, long time.

Purchasing a "ready to glue" belt is another solution and there are good reports for this system. Trying to glue an automotive serpentine belt can be very difficult because they seem to come apart after a while. I've tried it several times and not had any long-term success with it.
 
I have scarf joined and run belts on similar size machines with Ados F2 contact adhesive, they haven't broken yet.
The traditional method on leather would be hide/animal glue... if you have any spare horses you can render down.
Lacing is also a good option. I would use "builders string", comparable to the hand fishing lines (not nylon monofilament, ie) on a belt than narrow. On a poly-vee type belt the lacing will sit in the grooves giving you pretty smooth running.
 
I just fit a Albino industrial flat belt about 3 moths ago to my South Bend 9inch. First time I glued a belt of any type and could not be happier with the out come. I first grooved a piece of wood to fit the belt size then use three small pieces of wood and small c-claps to hold every thing in place let it set for the 24 hours. Very good traction belt.
Chet
abinoindustrialbelting.com

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A good source for belts at least here in the states is Tandy leather. They sell belt blanks as in belts to hold your pants up for a few bucks. For joining belts I just picked up a cheap crimping tool and some metal clips off eBay.
 
An automotive serpentine belt with a carefully scarfed joint, joined by a brand name "super glue". The above noted wooden guide and clamp will make it smoother. Regards, Clark
 
If you decide on a serpentine belt, here's a way to glue it if you can't or don't want to scarf it. Cut the belt to the exact length needed, then grind away the rubber down to the cord on the back (non ribbed) side for about 2" from each end. Then take a 4" length and grind away the rubber down to the cord on the ribbed side. Then glue the 4" piece to join the ends of the belt, cord to cord, and the splice will turn out approximately the same thickness as the rest of the belt. Use a two part super glue designed for plastics and use a fixture to clamp until dry. This method worked for me after many failed tries, both glued and laced.
 
I went with the one piece serpentine belt and wouldn't consider anything else as it runs very smooth, no stretch and no fear of failing (anytime soon). There really isn't too much work to driving out the headstock and countershaft axles. I would recommend spending the hour or two to drive them out and put in a one piece belt. Note that you don't need to touch the headstock bearing bolts as there is clearance for you to drive out the axle. Use a wood block and take your time. This gives you a chance to inspect the bearings, oilers and such too. MHO.
 








 
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