Bench recommendations for a 9A? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Thanks for the Grizzly tip - I will take a look.

    And I did find a original metal cabinet base although it looks pretty rough - green sheet metal with a small door cabinet left and right. I may go and look at that.

    Glenn

  2. #22
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    My 3' South Bend 9" Model B converted to A. I converted mine to Serpentine back in 2003 or 2004, a 1 piece serpentine belt is in no way comparable to a a flat leather belt. They are smoother, use no belt dressing and will allow nearly twice the depth of cut due to no slippage and have no annoying clicking thumping. My lathe has several mods to it. I learned to really run a lathe in trade school 40 years ago on these very lathes, so I was well versed on there short comings but loved how easy they were to repair and work with. I changed to serpentine belt, added cup oilers to the tailstock/bedway, added ball oilers to the carriage, made my own large dial conversion, changed the take up nut to needle bearings. I have also added 1" risers as of late under the bed feet to help clean underneath of the machine since they sit so close to the table. My bench is 1-1/2" square tubing with 3/16" wall, the top is a double layer of 3/4" plywood glued together and then thru bolted to the crossmember in the steel frame. I also have adjustable feet on the table to help stabilize the table and level it on the floor. This bench is very stable even after 19 years. I also had a chip pan built to go under the lathe and keep the oil from the wood top. I am not a hobbiest and my lathe gets used a lot, sometimes more than 25-30hrs a week, just depends, but on average I probably use it at least 15 hrs a week. I also have a 4' version of this machine on a nearly identical bench.

    img_0164.jpg

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcruff View Post
    My 3' South Bend 9" Model B converted to A. I converted mine to Serpentine back in 2003 or 2004, a 1 piece serpentine belt is in no way comparable to a a flat leather belt. They are smoother, use no belt dressing and will allow nearly twice the depth of cut due to no slippage and have no annoying clicking thumping. My lathe has several mods to it. I learned to really run a lathe in trade school 40 years ago on these very lathes, so I was well versed on there short comings but loved how easy they were to repair and work with. I changed to serpentine belt, added cup oilers to the tailstock/bedway, added ball oilers to the carriage, made my own large dial conversion, changed the take up nut to needle bearings. I have also added 1" risers as of late under the bed feet to help clean underneath of the machine since they sit so close to the table. My bench is 1-1/2" square tubing with 3/16" wall, the top is a double layer of 3/4" plywood glued together and then thru bolted to the crossmember in the steel frame. I also have adjustable feet on the table to help stabilize the table and level it on the floor. This bench is very stable even after 19 years. I also had a chip pan built to go under the lathe and keep the oil from the wood top. I am not a hobbiest and my lathe gets used a lot, sometimes more than 25-30hrs a week, just depends, but on average I probably use it at least 15 hrs a week. I also have a 4' version of this machine on a nearly identical bench.

    img_0164.jpg
    Very helpful - thank you

  5. #24
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    First photo shows the specs for the belt I'm using on my SouthBend 9A. Second photo shows the table I have it on. Some might consider the table a bit of overkill, it has a 1" thick A36 steel table blanchard ground flat to 0.001" and weighs about 2000 lb, but it certainly adds stability to the lathe

    038.jpgimg_6604.jpg

  6. #25
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    Since this got bumped to the top, I thought I'd post some pics of my bench build in progress.
    Again, this is for a 4 foot Model B 9" modified to a Model A (QCGB). The bench frame work is
    made of solid oak. I just got the panels cut and stained last night. The large front panel will be cut
    in two for access to storage area. Under the headstock will be a set of drawers on rolling sliders.

    The top will consist of 3" of wood. And maybe a skin of aluminum on top (probably not).
    It's very heavy and will do a great job supporting the 9" long after I've left this earth.
    (Again, this is fashioned closely to the original bench built in the 50's for my 9" Model A,
    which I grew up with).

    Another couple weeks and I should be ready for installation of the lathe. And yes, I will
    also add some extensions under the lathe feet as well.

    And by the way, I have $500 just in lumber alone. This excludes hardware, stain, and polyurethane.
    At the very least you need a good table saw, high-quality blade, and a router table.

    Thank you.


    img_2023.jpg img_2024.jpg img_0883.jpg

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  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by drcoelho View Post
    First photo shows the specs for the belt I'm using on my SouthBend 9A. Second photo shows the table I have it on. Some might consider the table a bit of overkill, it has a 1" thick A36 steel table blanchard ground flat to 0.001" and weighs about 2000 lb, but it certainly adds stability to the lathe

    038.jpgimg_6604.jpg
    Amazing table work but I don't think I'll go quite that far And thank you for the belt spec - I need to research the whole belt issue but will keep your info handy.

    Glenn

  9. #27
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    Building a beefcake lathe bench

    I like the concrete lathe bench this guy made, never got around to making one for my self.


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