Calling all South Bend 11's - Page 6
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  1. #101
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    Thanks Larry, sometimes, the simple design is hard to grasp. I have been overthinking the deal and I can get along with a 5/8" shaft just okay. I will implement it tomorrow and report. Scratch the bushings.

  2. #102
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    Purchased 5/8" x 30" long rod, it cost $15.00. I previously purchased a 3/4" rod x 5' and decided to invest my time doing other things other than chucking up the 3/4" and reducing it to 5/8". However, I still want to put in bushings. I reamed out a pair, but the i.d. is a closer fit than the o.d., so I may resort to expoxy as a an adhesive to hold the bushings in place.

  3. #103
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    The bushings are in and the shifting is sweet.

  4. #104
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    I am wondering if anyone else has a morse taper sleave in the spindle as my SB11 has. The outside taper is larger than a 3 but smaller than a 4. The inside taper is a 2and the same as the tailstock. This works out ok for me but I wondered if this is normal for South Bend to do or if this spindle had ben bored out by an outside source at some time in it's life. The spindle nose is 1 5/8 inch by 8, whitch I think is standard.

    Thanks Larry

  5. #105
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    It's a common thing for American lathes with a swing over 10" to have proprietary inside spindle tapers.

  6. #106
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    I believe that the spindle taper on the 11" is an MT 2 (mine is anyway). That being said, you also have to have the spindle taper adapter/bushing in order to use it.

    I also found that Miller Machine & Fab lists "spindle adapter bushings for the South Bend" - Spindle Adapter Bushing for South Bend that may come in handy.

    Hope that helps,

    -Ron

  7. #107
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    Yabut... this spindle 's taper isn't a typical size, as it is a little bigger than a morse 3, so I would have to have one ground to fit this particular spindle. It just seems unusual to me that South Bend would make them like this.

    Thanks guys for your comments. Larry

  8. #108
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    Thanks to Ronald and Larry for their helpful suggestions about the shipping shaft. Here is the shipping shaft selector and all the gizmo in its SB11 glory. The beast runs, but it needs an electrical switch which should not be too much of a challenge. Right now, it is running with a direct plug into the 110v. It needs to have an on off swith spliced in. What about a ground wire? The motor has two wires and no ground. What if I get shocked? Oh my, what if my finger gets into the works? Gee, is it safe?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails wp_20140218_001.jpg   wp_20140218_010-1-.jpg   wp_20140218_009.jpg  
    Last edited by Robert Robles; 02-28-2014 at 10:11 PM. Reason: change a few words

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  10. #109
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    Robert for a ground all you have to do is run a 3 wire cord to the motor,
    Then attach one end of the green wire to the machine the other end to the grounding prong on the plug.
    The off-on switch I would mount by the head stock .
    Rember you have to use caution around flat belts.
    Do not stand in front of them when they are running.
    Make sure they are in good shape.

  11. #110
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    Does anyone have a parts list for a 1939 R series 11 inch lathe? Specifically I'm looking for the oil trough and a gasket. I've tore down this lathe to see what condition it's in and found these parts missing on the apron. Thanks for your help.

    Scott

  12. #111
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Robles View Post
    Oh my, what if my finger gets into the works? Gee, is it safe?
    Its would be safer if the drive works was hanging on the ceiling or wall behind the lathe like it was designed. Then you would only have to worry about the headstock belt. You could make up some guarding so someone doesn't get caught. Maybe with some small expanded metal or even wood bolted to a frame. Don't get me wrong i would love to have that whole drive system because mine prob is still hanging someplace...Bob

  13. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgriggs View Post
    Does anyone have a parts list for a 1939 R series 11 inch lathe? Specifically I'm looking for the oil trough and a gasket. I've tore down this lathe to see what condition it's in and found these parts missing on the apron. Thanks for your help.

    Scott
    Here's a link to Steve Wells' great site. It is the parts manual for the R series apron.
    http://www.wswells.com/data/parts/pa...C/pt_17c_8.jpg
    I'm sure the trough for the 11" is like no other.
    Ted

  14. #113
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    lathe04132014-039.jpgAfter two years I have my work bench cleaned off. I had stripped off 5 layers of paint. Cleaned things up and repainted. I didn't want it to be perfect and be afraid to use it, but I wanted to be proud of the old girl.
    I had several things on my list I wanted to repair and upgrade as I went along. Two things I did not repair was the half-nuts and the cross-feed screw, both still work. I kept dragging my feet wanting to fix them but I lacked the skill to do it. So some day I'll give them a go.
    The paint I used is SEM rust -shield 38064 in gloss black and yes I used a brush. I installed a thrust bearing from McMaster-Carr (sorry I can't remember the numbers) replacing the spindle thrust collar. I'd like to thank Mike Schetter of Finegrain Metalworks for repairing my back feed gears. I was very pleased with his workmanship. Also I'd like to thank Dennis Conway for sending me the cross feed nut. With the better nut my cross feed is much improved. And the best improvement I made was installing a serpentine belt from NAPA #25-080485 I found one on-line for about 5 dollars. I now have a quiet non-slip belt. Man I love how smooth and quiet the lathe is now. A simple little thing I did to help save the belt, was I installed a small prop to remove the tension off the belt. I would think with no joint to fail the belt should last along time.
    Last edited by clay27bsouthbend; 04-14-2014 at 09:39 PM. Reason: add pic

  15. #114
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    Sweet lathe. Another south bend lathe ready for another 75 years of work. If you come across your McMaster parts for the thrust bearing please post them. I need to upgrade my 11 during my rebuild.

    John

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    No picture when I look! You said that Dennis Conway sent you the cross feed nut. Does he make them or just have some new-old stock? I'd like to replace some parts on my 11" too.

    Looking forward to your pic being back.

    -Ron

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    I wonder if the new old stock pair of half nuts I have are for one of these early 11" South Bend lathes? They're too small for the 13" which has a 1" diameter lead screw.

  18. #117
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    I just got an old 28, I need to locate a tensioner lever, and motor stand, someone has redesigned it poorly in the belt tensioner dept, and It needs to go back to original. Before that I need to figure out why its POURING oil from the spindle bearing. I think the old user ran it without oil. I'm hoping that it can be fixed by removing a couple of shims, but I haven't even had a chance to see how much play there it. it feels like there is a lot the gears are loud but I think this is fairly normal for these.

  19. #118
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    Galane,

    My SB11 has a 1 inch lead screw. If they look like the half nuts on the N series catalog I am interested if you are selling. The link is here to the parts pdf on page 6. Please let me know if what you have is close enough of a match. We can go from there.

    John
    http://www.wswells.com/data/bulletin...200/bl_200.pdf

  20. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by MetalCarnage View Post
    No picture when I look! You said that Dennis Conway sent you the cross feed nut. Does he make them or just have some new-old stock? I'd like to replace some parts on my 11" too.

    Looking forward to your pic being back.

    -Ron
    Dennis had some used parts that he passed on to me. Then I gave them to somebody else.

  21. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by jinglejangle View Post
    Galane,

    My SB11 has a 1 inch lead screw. If they look like the half nuts on the N series catalog I am interested if you are selling. The link is here to the parts pdf on page 6. Please let me know if what you have is close enough of a match. We can go from there.

    John
    http://www.wswells.com/data/bulletin...200/bl_200.pdf
    They're like the ones on the 1914 13" Sears Expert I had. The base is the same size but the nut parts are narrower (along the axis of the screw). The reach out from the apron is the same. There's enough iron in these they could be mounted to a fixture and the thread cut out to 1" diameter. I was going to get that done if the Moglice failed on the originals. (It worked fine and the old "Sears Bend" had such smooth leadscrew action...)

    1914 Sears Expert https://www.flickr.com/photos/277487...7635398470727/

    Unknown year/model South Bend half nuts. https://www.flickr.com/photos/277487...7644031709844/


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