century 1/2 hp interior motor components.

tommyv · May 2, 2018

I've recently rebuilt a 1941 SB 10R, a beautiful machine. However I've not yet been able to make chips due to motor issues. It cam with a Century 1/2 hp in a 66 frame. Basically I need the expertise of someone knowledgeable with these older motors. There are various reasons I'm going this rout rather than outright buying a new motor. Some of the reasons are money, mounting plates, brackets and I'd also like to keep it as original as possible.
My problem is with the centrifugal switch, "inside the motor" and the contact points. Below I've posted the best pictures I can manage. Apparently one of the contact points has blown off and I'd like to either locate a replacement switch or affix a new or replacement contact point where the old one was. Any help with getting this motor operational is appreciated.
Thank You!
PS The first photo is a wide shot of the inside of the motor and switch and board.
the second is just a tighter shot.
Third is a close shot of the switch where I've parted the contact points with a pick.
Finally, this picture shows the board where the missing contact point gos.

Dobermann · May 2, 2018

That's a nasty problem. You have limited options here. You could try to find another antique motor with the same frame and mount hole spacing--you could just get lucky and find one on eBay or Craigslist. You might find a motor shop who could fix that switch for you but any commercial establishment is likely to hurt you financially. You might be able to cobble together some switch parts to make a functional switch for it but I'd be amazed if you could do that and come up with a switch that would last long enough to satisfy you.

I think you'd be time and money ahead--by a long measure--to just step up and get a new motor and make an adapter plate to fit the new mounting pattern. This might be your golden opportunity to convert over to a 3 phase motor with VFD control for it. Variable speed is a wonderful option.

dalmatiangirl61 · May 2, 2018

If there are any part numbers on that switch, google that number. Another option is if there is a motor repair shop near you, drag it over and see if they will sell you the switch. I know I saw a post on this forum or another recently where someone found a supplier of centrifugal switches, but I'm not finding it at the moment.

Here http://www.torq.com/motor-and-switch-replacement-parts.html

iwananew10K · May 3, 2018

If you decide to upgrade here is a really nice motor...and an equally good price too....add a VFD of your choice and you're in there...these motors are nice because the base is removable and can be reconfigured...its a metric frame but that's good in this case...66 frame motors are 3/4" shaft and this one is 19mm...darn near perfect so the original motor pulley will fit.

3/4-.56 hp-kw 17 RPM D8 Frame 23/46 Volts Leeson Electric Metric Motor # 19241

thermite · May 3, 2018

tommyv said:
I've recently rebuilt a 1941 SB 10R, a beautiful machine. However I've not yet been able to make chips due to motor issues. It cam with a Century 1/2 hp in a 66 frame. Basically I need the expertise of someone knowledgeable with these older motors. There are various reasons I'm going this rout rather than outright buying a new motor. Some of the reasons are money, mounting plates, brackets and I'd also like to keep it as original as possible.
My problem is with the centrifugal switch, "inside the motor" and the contact points. Below I've posted the best pictures I can manage. Apparently one of the contact points has blown off and I'd like to either locate a replacement switch or affix a new or replacement contact point where the old one was. Any help with getting this motor operational is appreciated.
Thank You!
PS The first photo is a wide shot of the inside of the motor and switch and board.
the second is just a tighter shot.
Third is a close shot of the switch where I've parted the contact points with a pick.
Finally, this picture shows the board where the missing contact point gos.
View attachment 227473 View attachment 227474 View attachment 227475 View attachment 227476 View attachment 227473

Most 1-P motors with that problem have been opened-up, evaluated- then replaced outright with ether new or used-but-still-functional rather than repaired.

Some.. the repair was to simply fab a workable rivet or strip of brass that "worked OK". Done that a few times simply because it was the fastest way to get the shafts turning again and finish a wee-hours of the morning time-critical printing-press run or such.

Never found it to resemble rocket insemination for difficult. Sure did order a new "Dayton" motor from Grainger the very next regular work day, too.

Pitch this bugger. 1-P motors are Bic lighters, not "treasure".

johansen · May 3, 2018

Find a 20 amp relay, the contact will already be riveted to a strip of copper alloy about a half inch long, ample surface area to solder to the copper leaf spring you've already got.

same goes for the non moving contact.

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