Chuck options for Heavt 10 1-7/8" x 8tpi spindle
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  1. #1
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    Default Chuck options for Heavt 10 1-7/8" x 8tpi spindle

    hi all, I tried to chuck a 5" dia in my 6" four jaw chuck and it just doesnt quite open enough. Looking for options, the spindle is the smaller (less common) 1-7/8" diameter thread.

    Is there an adapter for the 2-1/4 spindle to reduce it for my spindle so I could look for say an 8" chuck in the more common size?

    Options?

    Thanks!

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    I'd replace the spindle in a heartbeat. Otherwise, get a 1.5x8 backplate for a 9" lathe, and open it up. All you need is a lathe.

    allan

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    thanks allan

    not sure how to make a backplate I never cut threads let alone inside threads and not sure how I'd chuck that back plate. actually my two chucks are the apparently old style, one piece.

    as to changing spindle, I did read on here that it's a direct swap dimentionally, however I seem to recall (2 years ago) reading that there are other complications making that swap be successful. I cant recall what. maybe something about the bearings not always being exact same ???

    If I could pay someone to have that 1 1/2 - 8 backing plate opened up, that may be the best ticket

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    OK... I relented and ordered a regular sized used spindle. Hopefully I can find out all needed information in here as to how to fit it to the bearings and end up with a proper fit. No idea as of now but may find it in a search...

    If this works out, then yeah will be nice to be able to procure common 2-1/4 8tpi chuck and plate etc.

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    Never knew the 10L was ever made with anything other than 2-1/4"-8 with 1-3/8" bore, with the same OD.
    What year?

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    I believe a 1947

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    I have a 1963. The "L" in Heavy 10L denotes the large spindle.

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    There are numerous threads I found on a quick search, but if anyone has quick tip on what not to do when swapping spindle, and can I simply mic the spindle journals and if match the bearings will match or is there more to do. Again this info seems already in forum here just wondering if any quick tips...

    thanks

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    dont overthink it.....it really is a direct swap.

    but before you do anything determine whether you have plain cast iron bearing, or if you have the bronze shells....the cast type is a no brainer, but the bronze shells you have to really pay attention to how you remove the bearing caps or risk damgaging the shells....you will want a 3 arm type puller to get the spindle gear off you old spindle.....read,read,read...understand it and you will be fine...the guys here are a great help.

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    Thanks!

    OK I removed the front bearing cap. It was not difficult, just tapped a thin screwdriver into each side to lift it off. How can lifting a bearing cap damage the brass shell bearings?

    Here's a pic, if this helps generate any tips about this particular style.

    I also need to post another topic asking suggestions about a chuck, as I will need a 2-1/4" x 8tpi setup to check the shaft clearance using an indicator and a long bar sticking from the chuck to lift and see the movement. From what I can gather I want a couple thousanths indicated movement when lifting that bar, if it is shimmed correctly.

    EDIT... the shims are paper thin. I didnt mic them but they feel very very thin.

    20191231_202206b.jpg

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    stop....you have the bronze shell bearings.
    you HAVE to read up on the proper procedure....hopefully no damage done.
    before you lifted that bearing cap off there were two small screws under a couple plugs on top of the cap... hold while i find the procedure....

    here ya go....parts and maintenance manual, look under the heading
    "maintainance" for the proper procedure...

    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/3463.pdf

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    OK answered my own question before your post. I did take the cap off incorrectly and here is a GREAT short video on how to do it right! The top two screws that fasten the "expander" must be removed first so that piece stays on the journal when lifting the bearing cap. The expander is a dovetail between the bearings, pics posted a few posts down.

    YouTube

    iwanananew, thanks for the pdf. I wish your prior post had just added about removing those screws because I did not know where to get the procedure or what you meant about reading and assumed just to use ordinary care lifting the bearing cap. (only removed one so far)

    Oh well. Now the question is how do I check the brass bearings to see if they were impacted by the improper method and if they are ok?

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    you are ok.....the real damage is done when someone tries to put the cap back on while the expanders are still in the cap...remove the expander...slide it in the slot of the bearing before you replace the cap...mark or make a note of how things are oriented.

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    Thank god

    20191231_211819-copy.jpg

    20191231_211437-copy.jpg

    20191231_213956-0-copy.jpg

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    all good!!

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    I'm looking at one that I believe is a 1947. It has the 7" wide bed but has the small bore spindle. I believe it's the one called a 10"R. I understand the R is for regular and the L is for large spindle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kilburn View Post
    I'm looking at one that I believe is a 1947. It has the 7" wide bed but has the small bore spindle. I believe it's the one called a 10"R. I understand the R is for regular and the L is for large spindle.
    Yup... it's mentioned here: Difference between 10L and 10R ? ? ?

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    Getting progress, now find out how to properly disassemble this thing. yes I know surface rusty, thats an issue in my work shed and may have to try minimal heating with a dehumidifier.

    20200101_204737b-small-copy.jpg

    20200101_204743-small-copy.jpg

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    Did you remove the bearings to check condition of them and the spindle for wear/scoring?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    Did you remove the bearings to check condition of them and the spindle for wear/scoring?
    We just got the gears off will post pics of bearings. Rear journal looked fine visually so far...


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