Cleaning

Well started today and took my 9A down to the four main groups to start the cleaning process.

Good news/bad news:

Good news, it came apart in fine fashion. Nothing stuck (except the chuck!) and nothing shows any visible wear or damage.

Bad news: The Gear Box has been in one position for more years the I want to know about. Talk about gummy gear grease!!! My 5-gal Ultra sonic cleaner had a fit!!!

The Apron looks like it was not use for many years as there is NO sign of any lube on anything. Just Dirt and swarf, BUT, it looks like it just needs a cleaning and lube job.

A question for all of you is: What do you use for Paint removal? The Orange Cleaner took off all the paint in most places but some is left and I need to get it all off and re-paint.

Any ideas on stripper and paint ??

Thanks,

Chuck

P.S. I promise NOT to use the Back Gear to get the Chuck off!!!!

If not on machine surfaces, I'd use a wire wheel on a hand held grinder or a dremel. But I don't know how much area you need to cover.

I like to use the wire wheel on stuff that the chemicals don't get. But you have to make *sure* not to hit any machined surfaces with it. You can mask them off with duct tape in that case -- thats how I did the engine block on my welder.

pavt said:

I like to use the wire wheel on stuff that the chemicals don't get. But you have to make *sure* not to hit any machined surfaces with it. You can mask them off with duct tape in that case -- thats how I did the engine block on my welder.

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Lets see the welder!

Painting Tips

Lathe Junkie said:

A question for all of you is: What do you use for Paint removal? The Orange Cleaner took off all the paint in most places but some is left and I need to get it all off and re-paint.
Any ideas on stripper and paint ??

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Yes, I used the orange stripper too, though required a second helping on some parts. I also used a 5-gal parts cleaner with mineral spirits for everything greasy and caked on. The orange stripper is a mess though. After it sat overnight, I rinsed the part in boiling water, getting it very clean. But before paint, one more wipe with laq thinner and alcohol until the rag remained clean.

But as an alternative, try a heat gun designed to remove paint (similar to a hair dryer, but much hotter). You will be surprised at how easily the paint will lift...and no chems involved!

One word of warning. You will no doubt use masking tape (blue stuff) to cover machined areas. If you are using enamel, be very sure not to let the blue masking tape sit on the part for very long after the paint has dried. The masking tape gets affected/hardened by the paint and can become a real bitch to remove....trust me.

One other tip. Naturally, you will remove the row of setscrews that hold the gib in place on the compound and cross slide. However, I advise you actually put them back in and screw in until flush with the casting body. This way, when you paint, it okay to get paint on the head of these screws because you can remove and wire brush the ends clean. However, if you get paint into the threads of these setscrews, you are going to have an awful time trying to clean them out. And you'll find that sometimes, a "conventional" tap doesn't fit the threads very well. Don't ever chase any of these threads with a tap if you can avoid it! Again, leave the screws in the threads! And, try a heat gun!

I used a good enamel from Sherwin Williams, but other people use a rattle can or even epoxy auto paint. The biggest problem with enamel is drying time...8 hours or so. I usually let it sit overnight. But I then found that putting parts in a box with a heat lamp overhead drastically reduced drying time. But use for limited amount of time and not too close! Actually, a regular outdoor spotlight will work just as well and won't get overly hot. (Not an LED spotlight). Cover box halfway with a towel to retain heat.

You can use a hardener in regular enamel paint, but you have to have many pieces ready for paint ahead of time, and the batch that you mix won't be any good for re-use. At least a can of enamel is going to be good for touch ups along the way and will match perfectly. I would recommend 2-coats if you have the patience.
Also, get yourself an assortment of GOOD artist brushes. Use a small brush for small areas. Those 1" China brushes are pretty much useless except for unimportant areas that don't show.
And do yourself a favor by leveling the bed on the bench (best you can) before you start assembling the components.

P Mc

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mcload said:

...The biggest problem with enamel is drying time...8 hours or so. I usually let it sit overnight. But I then found that putting parts in a box with a heat lamp overhead drastically reduced drying time...

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After the initial dry of the enamel, I put the parts that will fit in my oven set at 150º F for about an hour. Bakes them good and hard.

Thanks for all the info. I will keep working on cleaning and then set up to paint all at once.

MANY thanks for mentioning about "chasing the Threads" on the Lathe! I had NO idea that it could be a problem...........................

Mac, all my parts look like your last one when I took them out of the sonic-cleaner!!!

I will let all know how it goes. I plan to use small tooth brush and pipe cleaners for all the small spaces and passages.

Chuck

P.S. Mcload should I sign mine C Mc?? (Chuck McClurg)

Lathe Junkie said:

Thanks for all the info. I will keep working on cleaning and then set up to paint all at once.
Chuck. P.S. Mcload should I sign mine C Mc?? (Chuck McClurg)

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Yes Chuck, you should!

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mcload said:

Yes Chuck, you should!

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OK, will do!

Took the Apron apart today and found nothing wrong internally except that it had not been used or Lubed in years. Will put it in the cleaner later tonight.

One thing I found when taking it apart. When I went to the step to remove the Clutch Know Screw, IT WASN'T THERE!! It is the LEFT HANDED one that I need. At least it was NOT broken off inside the shaft!

Just missing.

Does any one happen to have a "Hanger Queen" that I could get it from??

Other than that so far, so good!!

C Mc