Cross slide screw repair

garyphansen · May 11, 2010

I got a new piece of LH Acme thread screw from Steve Wells a while back. I finally found a "Round to it" so I decided to fix a badly worn cross slide screw. The center of the screw was worn so bad the threads came to points. Anyway they normally cut off the screw at the gear and drill the gear and ream to .250" then turn an end of the new screw down to fit the hole. I did this one the reverse way (Because I could not find my split screw driver to take off the nut.) anyway I set up the existing cross slide screw in a four jaw chuck and adjusted it until I had .0005" runout. I set up the bushing behind the dial in my steady rest. The steady rest held the bushing stationary while the screw and handle turned. I then turned off the threads down to .250" X 1.5" long. More to come. Gary P. Hansen

garyphansen · May 11, 2010

Here I am reaming out the hold I drilled with a letter drill to .251" with a chucking reamer. The lathe is running but my camera stopped the action. Gary P. Hansen

garyphansen · May 11, 2010

Here is the completed repair. I put Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red on the .250 Dia X 1.5" shaft I turned down on the original screw and slid it into the hole in the new screw. I should add that I left the diameter of the shaft of the original screw large enough to be a press fit for the last 3/8" before the gear. Maybe I should also pin it or may be not. Gary P. Hansen

Total time around five years putting it off and about an hour working on it. It should make a big difference with this repair and a new cross slide nut.

jimwallis · May 12, 2010

Nice job, but how did you control the cross slide whilst it's screw was in the chuck?

I only have one lathe, I guess I need to bite the bullet and measure up my cross feed screw, then reassemble it and use it to turn a new one......

I have to say, I would pin your joint out of paranoia, even if I should never be driving a tool hard enough to make it slip the 'what if' would always nag me

garyphansen · May 12, 2010

"Nice job, but how did you control the cross slide whilst it's screw was in the chuck?"

I have more than one cross slide screw and more than one lathe. Yes, you are right maybe I will pin it after all. Gary P. Hansen

tjwal · May 12, 2010

Jim
I'm waiting for a round tuit as well. Since I have only one lathe the plan is to lock the cross slide gib as tight as possible and only use the compound for the crossfeed.

JohnW

jimwallis said:
Nice job, but how did you control the cross slide whilst it's screw was in the chuck?

I only have one lathe, I guess I need to bite the bullet and measure up my cross feed screw, then reassemble it and use it to turn a new one......

I have to say, I would pin your joint out of paranoia, even if I should never be driving a tool hard enough to make it slip the 'what if' would always nag me

ibgolfr · May 12, 2010

Round Tuit

I have a friend that actually has a "round tuit". It is a washer about 1 1/2" with the works round tuit stamped into it. He has carried it so long, it looks like a worry coin someone has carried for years. When I first saw it I asked what the heck it was and he explained. I always wanted to get a round tuit, so one day, I got one...here it is.

Eric

garyphansen · May 13, 2010

Hopefully it can be seen in the photo how the acme thread has been worn to points on the part of the screw I cut off. Gary P. Hansen

jimwallis · May 14, 2010

Yep, mine is similar, but the dovetails are also worn in the corresponding area so I have a bit more work to do.

Do you think it would help if I made myself a round tuit?

garyphansen · May 14, 2010

Round toits always come in handy. To fix worn dovetails you need a mill. Normally some will need to be taken off on both sides of the dovetail (Or the cross slide screw will no longer be centered.) After milling the left side would need to be shimmed and a larger gib fitted to the right side.

Another possibility is a product called moleice (I likely spelled it wrong) it can be added to the worn areas of the dove tail. I have never used it but I think Mr. Turk may have, so you could ask him. Gary P. Hansen

jayhawkman · May 14, 2010

leadscrew repair

If anyone is interested I sell repair kits to do this exact repair. Comes with new nut and a lenth acme rod to repair your leadscrew. This is big bang for your buck repair for sure. If interested call or text 913 636 6107. Thanks Mike

garyphansen · May 14, 2010

Mike why not tell everyone what you charge for your kits? Gary P. Hansen

Fasto · May 14, 2010

garyphansen said:
Another possibility is a product called moleice (I likely spelled it wrong)

Gary it's Moglice, or another brand is Turcite. Frequently discussed in the Monarch forum.
Nice job on the renewal, did you do the work on the LeBlond? (102 years old now? )

Old Iron · May 14, 2010

Gary nice job on the repair, Was looking at doing that myself haven't done anything as of yet.

Paul

garyphansen · May 14, 2010

"Nice job on the renewal, did you do the work on the LeBlond? (102 years old now?"

No I use the South Bend to repair the South bend I had an extra cross slide screw.

I have been using the LeBlond to make a new Ball handle for the South Bend's cross slide. I am making a larger one that came with it. A larger handle will make accuracy easier becaust it takes less effort to turn.

My LeBlond is only 101 years old and almost broke in. My house is 108 and I had an Aunt that was over 105 when she passed on. At 105 she could still spell better than I can.
Gary P. Hansen

jayhawkman · May 15, 2010

pricing

Well the 9,10" south bends would be $60 which includes a new nut and shipping but I can also offer kits for any lathe I make nuts for. If you have any questions about any kits feel free to call. Thanks Mike

garyphansen · May 21, 2010

Mike: If you want people to call you, it might be a good idea to give them your number. Gary P. Hansen

jayhawkman · May 22, 2010

good call

Sorry about that. It is 913 636 6107 you can also text if you perfer. Thanks Mike

garyphansen · May 30, 2010

I just want to add that I never did pin the parts together. all I used was the Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red and about 3/8" of press fit. I have taken some heavy cuts and so far there has been no problems. Gary P. Hansen

jim rozen · May 31, 2010

If you had a reasonable press-up at all on the parts, Gary, the thread locker is nowhere
to be seen at the joint. The press fit is doing all the work. My guess is you could
easily shear the dutchman pin or snap the handle off that assembly before the
press fit would let loose!

Jim

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