DFW Texas Area Needs some Help

Morning Guys
I'm in need of a bit of help here...I have been looking for a heavy 10 or 13 and may have found one of each...The problem is I have never seriously operated a lathe...I have dabbled with one but have no idea on what to look for as far as being worn out and problematic...

So I'm seeking some guideness on trying to get a better understanding of what I should be looking for...
I may have found a older heavy 10 however it does not have the cabinet or the typical cast structure under the head...what it has though is a welded frame which appears to be along the age of the unit...Professionally welded
Was there a time when SB offered a heavy 10 with a angle iron frame?

Also the flame hardened ways...were there ways that were not flame hardened? he has no indication on the unit to identify the ways were flame hardened...

The serial number which seeds to be located on the carriage (for lack of not knowing the correct terminology) stamped into the rt side of the unit he is unable to find...was there a time where the serial number was not stamped into the carriage?

And last but not least was there a time when the 10's were not painted...The unit seems to be original and uniform in appearance however there does not seem to have been painted...there doesn't seem to be any paint but a patina color of uniformity on all the cast areas...


Also I was kind of hoping that someone from the DFW area could show me allot of the areas to look of concern and show me how to run the unit thru its steps to help understand the working mechanics for the unit with a better understanding that I don't look totally green when I'm looking at the unit and putting it thru its paces...
Thanks
Paul

Extra handy info

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/17726.pdf

See page 13 Fig. 20 for serial location

ph

One more thing that comes to mind is the gear box...
I have noticed that some of the gear boxes have 2 levers on it while others have just 1 lever...This there a preference as to which is better or which is the latest version? I thought I had read where the gear boxes with 2 levers were thought to be smoother to change...
Does all the heavy 10 come with 1 lever while the 9"and 13" comes with 2 levers for the change...

The single tumbler is the older version and the double tumbler is the newer version.

As far as the heavy 10 goes there were two styles of the double tumbler gear box. One with 5 holes on the left is the standard box, and the one with 7 holes on the left is the extended range gear box.

Hey Paul, I would recommend checking out a local dealer in our area: Long Machine Tool co in Ferris, Tx

I know he has a good number of south bends/other lathes for sale at pretty reasonable prices (I have bought a few machines from there myself)- he is real honest and will show the good/bad of each machine - that might help alleviate some of the "1st time buyers" anxiety !

Contact:
Ray Long
Address: 200 N Main St, Ferris, TX 75125
Phone: (972) 842-2207

*No relation to them, just a satisfied customer!

You could always post a bunch of pics, you'll get info, maybe take a day or so for a bunch of people to chime in.

Serial numbers are stamped on between ways on bed. Note pic in this link:
South Bend Lathe Co.

This link can give you an idea what year based on serial:
South Bend Lathe Serial Numbers

Old vid, but great. How to run a lathe, by south bend:
YouTube

The early machines had cast base (like a bell with a door in it), later machines were on pipe cabinets. If a machine differs it was probably transplanted due to damage or other requirements. As stated early machines (prior to say about 1950 I can't recall the exact break) were single tumbler gear box. Later machines had newer double tumbler model and this applies to all sizes. On the Heavy 10 there were two models the "10R" small bore thru spindle and the "10L" large bore thru spindle which allows you to put a 5C collet in the spindle if you have the taper adapter. The serial has always between the vee ways at the far right end of the lathe bed. If its not there then the machine probably had the bed planed or ground due to wear. Lots of SB lathes came without hardened bed ways especially earlier.

You need to find a copy of South Bends How to Run a Lathe and read it thru two or three times. Stuff will start to make sense. SB Lathes are a great starter lathe because they are still affordable and forgiving of mistakes for new users. Good luck.

You need to find a copy of South Bends How to Run a Lathe

Click to expand...

Like linked in Post #2

I'd help you out. I'm north of Houston in Conroe, but that might still be out of the way.

Not sure on the table, but I know South Bend often supplied plans for how to build your own stand so my assumption would be if the lathe didn't have the cast iron or sheet metal stand, it was probably a home brew stand, but if it was made well and doesn't inhibit any of the lathes functions, I'd go with it.

Double tumbler seems to be more popular. Our Heavy 10 is the single tumbler but we've never had any complaints with it.

Serial numbers should be stamped between the ways on the front left corner of the bed.

To my understanding, SB would add a tag to the machine advertising flame hardened ways. If there was no tag, they're soft. I think a vast majority of SB's made before the 1960's were soft.

If you have the option to run a lathe before you buy it, there are a few things you can check to see if it's ready to go, otherwise I'd be ready for some repairs (minor or major). That's not a bad thing though. It's good to get intimate with your new machine early so you better understand it when something requires your attention later.

Thank You Guys for the responses...
I have a bit more understanding then I did 2 days ago, and we thank you for that...
I guess I can get all the reading under my belt as far as how to run a lathe which will be on my near agenda, however the how to use a lathe will not show me the things to look out for when evaluating the condition for purchase...
For me I get better results with hands on visual to get the greatest understanding of what to look for as far as wear what is acceptable and what to stay away from...
One of the units that is available now the other has been sold is @1600 miles away...pics would not be reliable option...
I have requested videos from both of the guys and received videos and pics but the quality of the videos are sub par...low quality...grainy...
So I'm seeking out to the you guys that can give me some information on what to stay away from before I either drive a long way and make a purchase in which I would have to spend more then the lathe would be worth to get it up and running correctly...
Thanks again
Keep the tips coming
Paul