Disassembling taper attachment on South Bend Lathe

I am cleaning up a South Bend lathe (s/n CL 8187 ZB)and would like to disassemble the cross feed screw assembly, taper attachment, etc. for cleaning and painting. I am having trouble removing the taper attachment assembly from the cross-feed carriage. Can anyone tell me how to do this. I do not have any manuals. Thanks for your help.

Sincerely,

Ken

There's enough info online to help you. Looks like you have a heavy 10 from the model #.

Here's a copy of the taper attachment service page thanks to Paula.

And in Paula's Links Wanted topic you'll find this link that has PDFs of just about the whole manual.

Where to start? I'd start by removing taper pin #7. Once you do that, you can take out the cross feed screw. The rest should be fairly straightforward from there.

Ken

Thanks, heavyKen

Ken, I've had the taper attachment on and off my Heavy 10 more than a dozen times in the last 4 months (probably much more), and there are a few hints, tips, dodges, and secrets therein.

If you encounter difficulties, please feel free to contact me here in the forum.

It ain't what it looks to be in a couple of instances.

Wally.

Hi Wally, How about adding some notes about what you learned? I spent alot of time with mine so it'd be real interesting. Might help some others too.

Ken

Unfortunately, in describing my Taper-Attachment-Follies, I'm reavealing the extent to which I qualify as a Journeyman Ding-Bat.

After a tight cross-feed nut and gib fussing, the taper attachment governs much of the cross-slide's behavior. (Of course, that's an over simplification, but not by much.)

Problems I've encountered (read: created for myself).

1. Never try to save time by removing the taper attachment as a complete unit. While straightening the cross feed screw isn't that hard, it wastes more time that you'll save. And the ulcers when it's a new one. Oy!

2. If your attachment is the version with the two ball bearings (one at each end of the cross feed screw sleeve (Part No. *AS858R1 in Form 922D Sec. 2), you can't just "sock 'em and lock 'em", and commence ta' makin' reactor parts. You will find yourself endlessly futzing with gibs and developing forearms like Popeye, wondering if now is the time to learn how to scrape "V" ways or endlessly cleaning swarf that isn't there. The bearings have to be adjusted and locked, but trial and error (this is where some one comes to the rescue with a ridiculously simple procedure that should have been intuitive to the dullest apprentice) is the only path to redemption. I had a new cross feed nut and screw, so there's one variable eliminated; the slap in the key/slot relationship between the Front Taper Attachment Screw(Part No. *AS482R2) and the aforementioned real cross feed screw itself can be parsed out if you eyesight is 20/5. Best be takin' backlash notation prior to disassembly. Already apart? Nevermind, just keep foolin' with the adjustment until you're happy with it. It's surprising how good you get at that after only a couple of weeks.And, as for the guy who designed the notion of using two thin nuts, well, we'll be hunting him up for a talk together. I finally got a couple of pump wrenches, drilled holes at the end of the handles, and hung them on a peg inside the cabinet.

Heavy Ken is right on it when he says that the taper pin is the place to start, then proceeding to the gibs (all of them).

HEY, WAKE UP!

Actually, I'm nodding off myself.

While someone will, no doubt, observe, and quite correctly so, that this didactic is about assembly, not disassembly (that you have asked about), I think that if I had given more thought to what was going on while the thing was in operation, there would not be two .45 caliber bullet holes in an otherwise lovely gray cabinet.

I'll keep an eye on the e-mail notification thingy.

Wally.

Cross feed screw

You mentioned that you replaced your cross feed screw. I’m actually looking to replace mine as well. Do you mind sharing with me where you obtained the part? I see tons of regular cross feed screws for sale but haven’t found any for taper attachment. I realize this post is over ten years old but I figured it wouldn’t hurt to try anyway. Thanks



QUOTE=Wally M;590098]Unfortunately, in describing my Taper-Attachment-Follies, I'm reavealing the extent to which I qualify as a Journeyman Ding-Bat.

After a tight cross-feed nut and gib fussing, the taper attachment governs much of the cross-slide's behavior. (Of course, that's an over simplification, but not by much.)

Problems I've encountered (read: created for myself).

1. Never try to save time by removing the taper attachment as a complete unit. While straightening the cross feed screw isn't that hard, it wastes more time that you'll save. And the ulcers when it's a new one. Oy!

2. If your attachment is the version with the two ball bearings (one at each end of the cross feed screw sleeve (Part No. *AS858R1 in Form 922D Sec. 2), you can't just "sock 'em and lock 'em", and commence ta' makin' reactor parts. You will find yourself endlessly futzing with gibs and developing forearms like Popeye, wondering if now is the time to learn how to scrape "V" ways or endlessly cleaning swarf that isn't there. The bearings have to be adjusted and locked, but trial and error (this is where some one comes to the rescue with a ridiculously simple procedure that should have been intuitive to the dullest apprentice) is the only path to redemption. I had a new cross feed nut and screw, so there's one variable eliminated; the slap in the key/slot relationship between the Front Taper Attachment Screw(Part No. *AS482R2) and the aforementioned real cross feed screw itself can be parsed out if you eyesight is 20/5. Best be takin' backlash notation prior to disassembly. Already apart? Nevermind, just keep foolin' with the adjustment until you're happy with it. It's surprising how good you get at that after only a couple of weeks.And, as for the guy who designed the notion of using two thin nuts, well, we'll be hunting him up for a talk together. I finally got a couple of pump wrenches, drilled holes at the end of the handles, and hung them on a peg inside the cabinet.

Heavy Ken is right on it when he says that the taper pin is the place to start, then proceeding to the gibs (all of them).

HEY, WAKE UP!

Actually, I'm nodding off myself.

While someone will, no doubt, observe, and quite correctly so, that this didactic is about assembly, not disassembly (that you have asked about), I think that if I had given more thought to what was going on while the thing was in operation, there would not be two .45 caliber bullet holes in an otherwise lovely gray cabinet.

I'll keep an eye on the e-mail notification thingy.

Wally.[/QUOTE]

About 3-4 years ago, this guy [email protected] made me a new 10L crossfeed screw for a machine with the taper assembly. He used to do the ebay thing. It wouldn't hurt to try to contact him directly.

Nick, the crossfeed screw nut is the same for a heavy 10 with or without a taper attachment.

I've purchased several parts from this fella on ebay. Always top notch.

South Bend Lathe Heavy Ten 1" Cross Slide Feed Nut PT65R1 | eBay

The two crossfeed screws ARE different between a 8187 and a 187.

Here's a diagram of both:

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/images/attach/jpg.gif

I thought he meant crossfeed nut. That's why I linked the ebay listing for a nut.

My bad.

Yes, the screws are completely different.

Unfortunately, the nut is made out of brass, not bronze like the original. But alas, it is what it is and that is all that is available, unless someone wants to make their own.