Don't delay... do the Serpentine Belt Fix today!
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  1. #1
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    Default Don't delay... do the Serpentine Belt Fix today!

    I did the serpentine belt mod to my 10L last night. I made some fixtures to help w/ the job and it worked out pretty well, perhaps the fixtures were overkill. But I glued it up last night and let the glue cure overnight. Tried it after coming home from work this eve. Just had to tell you about it. The results... unbelivable. I can't believe I waited this long to do this mod.

    I used a 28mm (1-3/32) wide belt. The joint is strong and flexible. I chucked up some stainless and did a quick test. Depth of cut at least 3X which would have stalled the lathe prior. The motor didn't even grunt. I know it will take an even heavier cut.

    Do it!

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    Yeah. My first impression was, "this thing is *almost* a gear-head lathe now."

    Night/day difference.

    Be careful though. At some point you will be swapping chucks and leave the bull
    pin and the back gear engaged. And try to start the motor....

    There were some funny noises.

    Jim

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    The last time I replaced the belts on my 9N I bought endless ruberized belting. I think I spent about $70. and they do not work nearly as well as the auto serpentine belts. You can replace your belts for the price of the glue, just ask a local garage to save some serpentine belts they change for you for your LATHE. When I asked they did not want to do it until I told them it was for a lathe. A sepertine belt that needs to be replaced on a car or truck will mostlikely last for years on your lathe.

    I have been thinking of replacing the 2 1/2 " belts on my LeBlond with two 1" serpertine belts sewed together the long way. Gary P. Hansen

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    I installed a serpentine on a SB 13 a few weeks ago, 1 5/8" wide leather belt broke and needed lathe working right away. The only belt I had handy was from a F150 truck, the belt was well used with about 60K miles on it and only 1" wide. Used Loctite Super Glue for All Plastics, layed end of belt on a block of wood and used a belt grinder to taper both ends. No jigs just glue(be sure to wear rubber gloves) clamp between two big pieces of HSS with C clamps for a while and let dry for a few hours. I considered it a temporary repair since the belt was worn and too small but as it is, it works about 10 times as well as one it replaced. Smooth and quiet, I think I could use it as a lifting sling for machinery (maybe not) Considering how little time it took and the glue was less than three bucks, very pleased with the result and it may last for years.

    Sam
    Sottof Sales

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    Default Serpentine belt fix

    It sounds great the use of this type of belt. Are any of you using them on a SB 9"A and has anyone pulled the spindle or just done splices. If anyone has done the spindle pull what size of belt/make of car/parts house # worked. I will be doing this in the next week or so as I am putting my SB9"A back together after a complete rebuild and this would be a perfect thing to top off the job.
    TX Chris a newbie/beginner

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    I have had the serpentine belt on my 9" for about 2 1/2 years now. I removed the spindle and put it on that way. I'll never use a leather belt again. As far as the belt number its just a standard 1" wide serpentine belt. Grooved side down. You will just have to measure your existing leather belt and tell them you want it that long. I'm at work right now so I can't tell you how long mine was but it will depend on how you mounted your rear drive.

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    Hi,

    Exactly what Mcruff said. The belts are metric so you need to do the conversion. Most counter guys in parts stores are used to just looking the make and model of car so it may be a little difficult to get the belt you need. Usually though, the length of the belt is part of the manufacturer's part number, but may not be part of the sku number in the parts store nomenclature.

    McMaster Carr has belts like this.

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by morsetaper2 View Post
    ....Depth of cut at least 3X which would have stalled the lathe prior.
    Actually, in my original post that should have read....3X which would made the leather belt slip prior.

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    does anyone have any pics of how they tapered their belt and of gluing it?

    Also if a few guys can chime in on The glue they used and how long it has run with is glue that would help me get my lathe running.

    I got a used semi / l;arge truck belt today (new are only 33 bucks though), i wanted to try it first on a used one but want to get the taper ing and gluing right.

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    I finally got around to it and bought two belts fro Mc Masters. One for the 9" 405 (1934) and one for the heavy 10.
    I put the endless one on the 405 yesterday. Started on Saterday and dissassembled the horizontal drive.
    On the 405 there is no adjustment. This is a fixed unit and the belt must be manhandled off and on. I had hoped that the new belts would make this easier. (No Luck there).
    While it was apart I stripped and repainted it. Even though I have owned the lathe for 30 years I have never taken this part apart. The oiler felts were black and hard so I replace them. On Sunday I pulled the spindle and the back gears.

    I should have anticipated and bought new felts but the ones in the headstock were only 3 years old so I cleaned them up a bit.

    Put it all back and alligned everything up.

    Hey; No more tick tick tick.....!!!!!!!!.

    However adjusting the belt tightness, which is done by moving the entire assembly, so the belt Just does not squeek on strat up resulted in a belt that just as difficult to get off and on as before.



    Still it wont slip as before and it was worth the effort,

    Now on to the Heavy 10.

    Jim B

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    Quote Originally Posted by fortytwo View Post
    does anyone have any pics of how they tapered their belt and of gluing it?

    Also if a few guys can chime in on The glue they used.....
    I used the loctite glue Jim Rozen reccomended. There is a picture in the post that is linked at the start of this thread. Couldn't find it at lowes, home depot, or any other of several hardware stores i tried. Did find it a kmart. I cut the belt just like Jim Rozen prescribed. About halfway into the cords each side. I ground the rubber away using a mounted flat stone in a drill press. I was able to control the degree to which I ground the rubber away very precisely. A blind man would be hard pressed to find the joint. It was about 1.25 inch long on a 28mm wide belt.

    And yes it screeches when you turn it on from a standstill.

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    Grr. I suppose I should link to them, but they're totally huge photos that
    were taken and uploaded to the site before I realized my wife's new digital
    camera had lots more pixel widgets inside it then the old camera. They're over
    a megabyte each....

    The glue:
    http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Splice_4.jpg

    Side view of splice as described above:
    http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Splice_1.jpg

    2 and 3 are top and bottom views, they really don't show much.

    Jim

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    Thanks,
    I didn't uderstand what the pic in the original thread was of. I just got a free used semi/heavy truck serpentine belt (about 1 1/4 inch wide by 6 feet), and the glue. I plan on trying this on my sb 13 when i get the wiring finished. I still need to clean the surface rust off of the cone pullys, i figure scotch brite and alcohal (for the oil) should do it.
    FortyTwo

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    Tonight I started and finished the first project since I changed the belt on my 9" 405.
    The project was a mandrill made out of 1/2" diameter water hardening drill rod. It purpose is to hold a dovetail cutter in the mill (or lathe for that matter).
    there is a very precised 0.400 step used to register the cutter then a relief and then a short section of 3/8-24 thread.



    I started by parting off a 4" section. My parting tool is 1/16 T shaped.
    Now parting off has always been Iffy. Usually some time in the process the tool grabs and the belt slips and bad things happen.

    Not tonight. It was just like Sam the machinest at Amerac, where I worked, would do it. NO PROBLEMS.

    Next I needed to turn the 0.400 step. In my approach I creep up on it.
    Well I got to the point where I neeed to take 0.001". I was using new carbide tooling with a TPG221 insert. Now lots of people say light cuts are not for carbide. Well tonight everything went fine.


    Thats the "fuzz' from the 0.001 cut. That is also the "As Cut" finish. Not far from the virgin drill rod.
    At this point the fit was just a wring fit. I hit the step with a #4 smooth file and it slid on.
    I under cut the thread with the parting tool about 0.032 deep and then chased the thread. I felt that this was much easier tonight. I usually make two cutting passes of between 0.005" and 0.002" deep (depending on how far I have come on the thread) and then take a free pass.
    Tonight my free passes were really free.
    I did cheat and finish the last few thousands with a die

    Here is the finished part



    Now a lot has been said about being able taking deeper cuts, well I find that parting off shows significant improvement and in general the lathe seems to work much better in just the normal things I do.

    Jim B

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    Default Collet chuck

    Please excuse the newbie question! Jim B, I see that you're using a collet chuck in your 9". I have a 10K. Where would I look for a similar setup?

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    Jim B's machine is also a 10K. You can tell this definitively
    because the collet has a keyway right up at the front,
    visible in one of the photos.

    Basically all you need to run collets in a 10K is a
    drawbar, and the 6K collets.

    Jim

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    Sorry for the confusion. I was going to mention it but I have said it so many times I did not want to be repeditive.

    I am running a 9" lathe with a 10K spindle. I have (almost) a set ot 6K collets by 64"s that I habe been collecting for 5 years. I am still looking for 17/32, 35/64 and 39/64 If anybody has them.

    Jim B

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    I should mention that Bob "AAMETALMASTER" has a very good picture essay, on his Yahoo southbend10k site, showing how to make a collet chuck using ER-40 collets.

    http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/sou...os/browse/af52

    You will need to join.

    Now I have been considering making at least three of these.
    At the present time I have 3C, 3AT, 6K 5C, BS-9 MT-2, and Y type collets.
    All of these could be replaced by one set of ER-40's, which BTW go out to 1". Each of the ER series will handle a wide range of diameters and thus even cover metric dimensioned diameters.

    If I knew then what I know now................!

    Jim B.

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    In honer of Photobucket starting working for me again I thought I would post a photo. I would highly recomend that a serpitine belt be tapered and glued but this photo is to show that you can splice them in other ways. This belt is on my 14" 1909 LeBlond and replaced a worn out leather belt that came with my lathe when I bought if about a year ago. I had this used serpitine belt on hand but it was not long enough to taper the ends and glue it. So, I just drilled a few holes in it and laced it up with some braided stainless steel wire. This belt drives the horizontal and facing off part of my lathe. I think braided fish line would work equally well to lace it up. Gary P. Hansen

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    I tried the serpentine belt replacement. The splice is very stiff and causes a lot of vibration as it runs the pulleys. I used superglue and tapered the joint.
    My question is does the belt need some "run in" time or was the superglue too inflexible?

    Cheers,

    Jon


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