Drill Chuck Spun in Tailstock Taper
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    107
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    33
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default Drill Chuck Spun in Tailstock Taper

    I was doing some drilling with a 9/16" bit over the weekend on my 9", the drill bit caught and the drill chuck taper spun in the tailstock. I felt inside the taper and it didn't feel like there were any large ridges formed, but it's definitely been scored in the past. I think the drill bit pulled the taper forwards out of the lock instead of spinning in place.

    Would it be worth getting a 2 morse taper reamer to clean up the taper? Am I more likely to just make things worse than sufficiently clean it up? Should I try some high spotting compound to see if this is really even an issue? I've never used high spotting compound before.

    If I end up reaming, i'm assuming i'd want to hand ream without center support from the headstock, so it doesn't get misaligned at all if the centers arn't perfectly aligned.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    1,985
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1301
    Likes (Received)
    839

    Default

    I guess it just depends on what level of precision you are using the tail stock for. As long as they are still holding onto the taper, you shouldn't have to worry about it. I try to stay away from drilling over 1/2" with a Morse 2 taper tail stock and use the tool post instead.

    If it was me, I'd consider how much wear is in the bed and if there's any drop in the tail stock currently. IMO you are better off fixing that first and the taper last. If you know your tail stock is lined up perfectly with the spindle, I'd think you'd would want to use the spindle to ream the quill so it maintains alignment and there's no risk of your hands pushing it one way or the other, but I've never done one either.

    A couple of our lathes have spun-quills. But I'm not going to mess with them until they are lined up perfectly with the spindle.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    New York
    Posts
    10,022
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    2600

    Default

    most dont bother reaming unless taper never holds even if tapped with a lead hammer
    .
    quite common when peck drilling and flutes full of chips when you retract the drill pulls out of the taper. maybe happened to me a few hundred times using dozens of lathes over the decades

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Connecticut
    Posts
    754
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    22
    Likes (Received)
    229

    Default

    I have used a drive dog on a large drill before to keep that from happening, would work on smaller stuff too if you have a small enough dog


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    107
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    33
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ripperj View Post
    I have used a drive dog on a large drill before to keep that from happening, would work on smaller stuff too if you have a small enough dog


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    That seems like a good idea, might have to try that out next time I need to drill a large hole!

    The quill still holds things pretty tight, so maybe it was just a mistake on my part. The drill chuck adapter is pretty old and crappy, so I think i'll just leave the taper alone for now!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    savannah, jaw-ja
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1142
    Likes (Received)
    403

    Default

    It's really not reaming per se, it's just getting rid of high spots. As above, no need unless the taper quits holding. My lathe had seen some abuse since 1941, a few turns with an MT reamer helped. Just hand pressure on the end of the reamer and a wrench to turn it.

  7. Likes Domodude17, Screwmachine liked this post
  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    437
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    15
    Likes (Received)
    116

    Default

    Or, take a piece of 600 grit paper and wrap it around a known good #2 shank. Don't let the paper edges overlap but leave a small gap between the edges. Gently use the shank and the paper to buff off any sharp edges inside the bore. It doesn't take much of a burr to mess up the taper holding.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    4,471
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    541
    Likes (Received)
    594

    Default

    When drilling with large drills (and I've drilled with 1" drills on my Atlas), I step up in small increments (like 1/16") so that the drill isn't doing too much work.

    Why do tailstocks not have the slot at the end of the taper to engage a tang?

    Is this a safety thing? Seems silly to sacrifice a drill bit by scoring the taper.

    Steve

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Dutchess County NY
    Posts
    357
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    84
    Likes (Received)
    83

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
    When drilling with large drills (and I've drilled with 1" drills on my Atlas), I step up in small increments (like 1/16") so that the drill isn't doing too much work.

    Why do tailstocks not have the slot at the end of the taper to engage a tang?

    Is this a safety thing? Seems silly to sacrifice a drill bit by scoring the taper.

    Steve
    Some do. My Nardini, for example, has a slot for the tang on the MT3 accessories and drills.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Connecticut
    Posts
    754
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    22
    Likes (Received)
    229

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by n2zon View Post
    Some do. My Nardini, for example, has a slot for the tang on the MT3 accessories and drills.
    So does my MT4 16” Kerry (Namseon)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Maine, USA
    Posts
    127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    65
    Likes (Received)
    56

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
    When drilling with large drills (and I've drilled with 1" drills on my Atlas), I step up in small increments (like 1/16") so that the drill isn't doing too much work.
    While this is somewhat of a common recommendation it's not a great one. It's actually more likely to grab the drill and more likely to chip/wear the cutting edge. It shouldn't be used to use a larger drill than the size MT you have would normally dictate. A proper pilot is right around the size of the chisel point and I usually go from there right to drill size in a machine. Hand drilling maybe 1/4" steps minimum.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    moscow,ohio
    Posts
    5,899
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    579
    Likes (Received)
    1887

    Default

    the truth is most beat the hell out of their little 9s working them beyond their design....that said I'm guilty of same.

    On my 9" I actually had a separate quill(crappy one off eBay) just for the cursed occasion I had to drill large holes, a 14N Jacobs was permanently fixed to that quill via loctite....swapped the whole quill.

    Saved my good one from slamming tapers in and out constantly and the risk of one spinning...those little unhardened small diameter quills don't like that much.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    107
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    33
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    the truth is most beat the hell out of their little 9s working them beyond their design....that said I'm guilty of same.

    On my 9" I actually had a separate quill(crappy one off eBay) just for the cursed occasion I had to drill large holes, a 14N Jacobs was permanently fixed to that quill via loctite....swapped the whole quill.

    Saved my good one from slamming tapers in and out constantly and the risk of one spinning...those little unhardened small diameter quills don't like that much.
    That's actually a pretty good idea..might keep my eye on Fleabay to see if I can pick up a cheap one at some point.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    32
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    4

    Default

    If the drill chuck adapter is "crappy", perhaps one in better condition would help.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    107
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    33
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jaco1 View Post
    If the drill chuck adapter is "crappy", perhaps one in better condition would help.
    That was the plan, i've got material for one already. I wasn't sure if I should be doing anything else though.

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    9,885
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3337
    Likes (Received)
    3542

    Default

    I have cut off the tang on an old drill and with it loaded whit lapping compound and turning it with an old wrench so lapped a bugged taper back to OK.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •