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Finally found my SB Upsize.

Raydel

Plastic
Joined
May 5, 2019
Hi all:

I'm new to posting on the forum. Been lurking, learning and drooling for some time, but now it's time to get off the pot and contribute what little I can. For over a year I've been looking to take a little step up from my trusty South Bend 9A. Had a heavy ten on my mind, one actually slipped through my fingers from being a few hours too late. However, two weeks ago, I came across a South Bend 13 that looked beautiful. Had a real good gut feeling about it, so I asked for a few more photos, asked a few questions and since the machine shouted "buy me", pulled the trigger real quick. Problem was, I had to drive 350 miles to pick it up. I have never laid eyes on a real live SB13, boy, that sucker is huge and heavy. I rented a van one way and as fate would have it, the seller had a forklift, so he loaded it onto the van and I drove the 350 miles back home. The other problem was, I needed a fork lift to get it off the van, that happened today. Now she's sitting in my garage waiting for a complete rebuild, which is mostly cosmetic, with the usual replacement of half nuts, cross slide screw and a couple other minor wear issues. As for rust, the little there is will most likely blow off with a good crosswind. :D I got it off a farm where it was used to make the odd bushing for farm equipment over the past twenty years.
The lathe came with a large bore spindle (1.4" actual, I think they call that a 1 3/8"?), taper attachment, flame hardened bed, full set of 5C collets and collet closer. I did the best I could on wswells's site to find the date it was made and to the best of my ability, it looks like 1965 vintage. Serial no. is: C10752TKXL, with DDB200DG stamped on the flat of the rear bed. Cat. No. CL8145C. Would love to know the significance of the Cat. No. if someone could help with that, it would very much be appreciated. Also, if I have erred on any of the above info, please set me straight. This "new to me" lathe is scheduled to be a summer refurbish project, My trusty 9A will handle most of the work, before she goes to someone that she can keep happy like she has done for me over the past five years. Attached is a photo of the new family member.
Will post more as the refurb project unfolds.

Cheers,
Raydel
 

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Looks like a fine acquisition!

CL8145C= 13" with a 6' bed in "toolroom" configuration....which was with taper,collet rack, and a leadscrew selected for a little more precision than standard....it may also have a hard bed.

Edited to correct typo.
 
Didn't know about the leadscrew, thank you for that info. It does have a 6' hardened bed, there's absolutely no wear. The price was also a steal.
 
weeps in CL8145B

I wish so badly mine had flame hardened ways, after a long life the difference is pretty painful.
Good find! Take care of her!

- This is probably something I should know, but I guess I've never needed to know.. What's the advantage to the double tumbler QCGB? I have a single and I find it incredibly uncommon to find another one.

2.jpg
 
there's no huge adavantage....except in getting metric pitches, that is much easier accomplished with the double tumbler gearbox.

Did they make the 13" with a standard and a wide ratio box like the heavy 10, or are all the 13" double tumbler gear boxes the same?
 
The 10L is a very desirable machine no doubt. What you have is a 10L on steroids. When you look at the numbers like tailstock, compound, and obviously cross feed travel, You will see what I mean. The overall size is not that different, they use the same carriage stop and thread dial. The 5C is the icing on the cake for both machines.
My 13 is an older one that uses the 2A collets,and has a single tumbler gear box. It’s still quite a versatile machine. I have a model B workshop lathe that gives me some metric ability’s, and higher spindle speeds. Getting the 13 in the basement was a job.
 
The 10L and 13" do not use the same thread dial or carriage stop...you may be able to use the stop but it won't hit the little pad right...but no go on the dial as they have different pitch leadscrew.

k3vyl, you must have a much older 13", as the real old ones did have an 8tpi leadscrew,same as 10L....the OP has a 6tpi leadscrew.
 
My machine is older,early WW2. My micrometer carriage stop has 1200 RT 3 cast into it. That indicates the R machine and the T machine,earlier designations for the heavy 10,and the 13. From what I can see the difference is the shoe,not the stop body. The shoe for the R lathe has a notch milled in it. I tend to go by those casting numbers to ID these parts because there is so much variation in the so called part numbers over the many years.
I gave inaccurate info on the threading dial the one I have is stamped THD 101 TH. That is a newer square bodied unit that works on 13,14,and 16” machines. It however can not be used on an R machine. I was thinking there was some other accessorie that was common to both but I can’t find it in the drawer.
 
Found in the back of the drawer the angle plate for using the micrometer carriage stop near the headstock. It also puts the stop plunger right on the pad.
 
Thanks to all for the various comments on this thread. I've started the refurbish process at the right hand side of the machine, taking apart the tail stock, which needs very little attention. The paint has been removed, it's been cleaned and a primer coat sprayed on. I do have a question for those with more experience than I.
There is a screw and pin located in the casting right next to the pin that runs in the key way of the quill. I gather it`s for some kind of adjustment of the pin itself. I had previously replaced the key on my SB 9A, but that doesn`t have this additional feature.
I`ve removed the screw, but was unable to do anything else. Can`t quite figure out the workings of these two parts. Can someone please enlighten me.
The quill has the slightest amount of rotational movement over it`s entire length, not something I`d loose any sleep over, but I`d just like to know if this screw and pin was put there to make any such adjustments. Thanks for any help you may provide. Next on the tear down bench is the saddle and taper attachment, then the QCGB, apron and leadscrew .
 








 
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