First Impressions with Lathe - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    Default Bad Chuck Jaw

    So the issue with this chuck is that one of the jaws is messed up. I am not sure what could have caused this Franken-Jaw but she looks pretty bad. Three of the four check out as being close to square but one is off. That's a .030 gap at the top!

    p1050419.jpg

    Pretty strange looking almost as though it was welded and ground a little to look better but I can't tell that anythin broke off...wierd.

    p1050422.jpg

    p1050423.jpg

    p1050424.jpg

    If anyone has oneof these kicking around in their shop I sure would like to get my hands on it.

    p1050421.jpg

    I am also exploring my options. I am not that used to a 4 jaw but I am thinking I can shim in some way to still use this chuck if i need to. Has anyone done this?

  2. #62
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    oh man, thats bad, no, doesn't look welded up, looks like it was face down in the mud for a couple of years.. was this rust crusted when you got it?

    I'm thinking you are throwing your time down the crapper with this one. bad road to go down to spend ANY time working on a chuck that has a jaw that looks anything like that. there are thousands and thousands of decent 4 jaw chucks with a 2 3/8 - 6 thread on them already out there... look up the psychology of the "sunk cost" !!

    sorry to be harsh, but basically I'm thinking no matter what you have spent on this already, the best move is to make it an offering to Pele and recycle it, in the geologic and cosmic sense, with the Goddess's help!

    P.S. as to anyone "having one of these kicking around the shop" you do know that isn't a part number, that jaw is number matched to the chuck body there, yes? no jaw anyone has "kicking around the shop" could be expected to fit your chuck with any reasonable likelihood, even if we knew the brand and model.

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  4. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    oh man, thats bad, no, doesn't look welded up, looks like it was face down in the mud for a couple of years.. was this rust crusted when you got it?

    I'm thinking you are throwing your time down the crapper with this one. bad road to go down to spend ANY time working on a chuck that has a jaw that looks anything like that. there are thousands and thousands of decent 4 jaw chucks with a 2 3/8 - 6 thread on them already out there... look up the psychology of the "sunk cost" !!

    sorry to be harsh, but basically I'm thinking no matter what you have spent on this already, the best move is to make it an offering to Pele and recycle it, in the geologic and cosmic sense, with the Goddess's help!
    I agree that one jaw looks like it was sitting in something but the rest of the thing looks really good! If you saw the rest you might try to save it too. It came with my $600 lathe so I dont have any extra money in the chuck so to speak. Of course I have spent 5 times that on everything else! LOL But I dont have a functional chuck so I can't use the darned thing! LOL

    I still have a three jaw that needs a finished back plate to become functional but I ahve been focusing on this one first because I thought it was closer to being useful. Thanks for the straight talk!

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  6. #64
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post

    P.S. as to anyone "having one of these kicking around the shop" you do know that isn't a part number, that jaw is number matched to the chuck body there, yes? no jaw anyone has "kicking around the shop" could be expected to fit your chuck with any reasonable likelihood. ??
    He did previous post chuck model number as a Skinner 8610, I forget, but I think he posted chuck diameter somewhere too.

    I'd be nervous using that jaw. I can't say for sure, but that rust may have compromised metal integrity, allowing it to bend on end, of previous owner. Not knowing if it will totally give way, and break, I'd be scared to have my face close to the machine.

    I have a skinner 420, made for south bend. Jaws look great, but I think someone crashed the machine on it, the tracks of chuck body have pieces broken out. I think it was listed as 8", but actual diameter is like 7.5", jaws are too small for yours.

    Just out of curiosity though, I see bend on the end of jaw in pic. Is the track, or slot of the jaw bent also ? Was it the sticky part ?

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  8. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    He did previous post chuck model number as a Skinner 8610, I forget, but I think he posted chuck diameter somewhere too.

    I'd be nervous using that jaw. I can't say for sure, but that rust may have compromised metal integrity, allowing it to bend on end, of previous owner. Not knowing if it will totally give way, and break, I'd be scared to have my face close to the machine.

    I have a skinner 420, made for south bend. Jaws look great, but I think someone crashed the machine on it, the tracks of chuck body have pieces broken out. I think it was listed as 8", but actual diameter is like 7.5", jaws are too small for yours.

    Just out of curiosity though, I see bend on the end of jaw in pic. Is the track, or slot of the jaw bent also ? Was it the sticky part ?
    Yup 8610...The "10" in 8610 is for a 10". The jaws have a stamp on them too. Each is stamped with the position number and then 109 MD12

    p1050421.jpg

    I'm pretty sure it came with my lathe when new. I have a Skinner 3809 Three Jaw and a Skinner Tailstock Drill Chuck. Considering this I did reach our to Latheman to see if I can get lucky and find one.

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    Wow, had my first day of real producivity! Been working on a collet closer draw bar. Roughed a 2.0 dia of 1018 steel down to an RCH of fitting in my spindle through-hole ~1.4225 ish was my initial measurement ;-) but maybe I need to clean the inside of that hole first because I came in a bit undersized from target @ 1.42 + and it is an interference fit! Still what a great day. I'll make a couple more passes and she'll go!

    I was taking .025 steps on the crossfeed and removing a lot of material but the chips were long and curly so I am not sure what I might adjust to get better removal.

    p1050486.jpg

    p1050477.jpg

    I got a little better at sneaking up on the target dimension but I still need some more patience. The last few passes were very light and higher speed and you can see the smaller size chips as I got closer. I dont have a ton of confidence with the micrometer valuations even though I have a new nut and screw there. Maybe my expectations are too high.

    p1050492.jpg

    Still it felt reallty nice to feel more comfortable with the machine!

    p1050482.jpg

    p1050484.jpg

  10. #67
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    The collet closer drawbar is supposed to be hollow. It normally is a piece of 1-3/8" diameter, 5/32" wall DOM tubing.

    Cutting 1018 will give you the long strips - be careful, they are dangerous. You need a cutter with a chip-breaker in it. If you're cutting with HSS, then use a dremel tool and cut a small groove about 0.060-0.080" from the front edge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post

    I got a little better at sneaking up on the target dimension but I still need some more patience. The last few passes were very light and higher speed and you can see the smaller size chips as I got closer. I dont have a ton of confidence with the micrometer valuations even though I have a new nut and screw there. Maybe my expectations are too high.
    There's really much more actual machinists, and old time manual machine guys on here than me, that might have an opinion on that. But I think it's really a condition of manual machines in general. Check, check, check and check some more, lol. Figuring out if you have to set the dial right on the mark, or a hair over or under. . .

    I use dials, but I try to set dial indicators on saddle or compound and watch both dials and dial indicators to make sure the math in my head is right, lol. Then to triple check I stop and put calipers on work, or maybe the other part that I want work to fit into.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLK001 View Post
    The collet closer drawbar is supposed to be hollow. It normally is a piece of 1-3/8" diameter, 5/32" wall DOM tubing.

    Cutting 1018 will give you the long strips - be careful, they are dangerous. You need a cutter with a chip-breaker in it. If you're cutting with HSS, then use a dremel tool and cut a small groove about 0.060-0.080" from the front edge.
    Thanks for the chip breaker tip!
    I should have been more clear on the project. I got a pre threaded and cut to length draw tube. I am making the rest of it so this is part of the shoulder. Actually you got me thinking I will wait to finish off that diameter until after I do the rest of the work on this part.

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    There's really much more actual machinists, and old time manual machine guys on here than me, that might have an opinion on that. But I think it's really a condition of manual machines in general. Check, check, check and check some more, lol. Figuring out if you have to set the dial right on the mark, or a hair over or under. . .

    I use dials, but I try to set dial indicators on saddle or compound and watch both dials and dial indicators to make sure the math in my head is right, lol. Then to triple check I stop and put calipers on work, or maybe the other part that I want work to fit into.
    Good to read that it takes a ton of checks! I used up a few dozen today easy!

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    Just got my SB16 recently and the belt wobbles and slips all the time, first real cut the belt slipped using the auto feed too, I think that little brass plate that says “relive belt tension when machine is not in use” may have something to do with the slipping on my machine at least! Your SB16 looks great!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrewblob View Post
    Just got my SB16 recently and the belt wobbles and slips all the time, first real cut the belt slipped using the auto feed too, I think that little brass plate that says “relive belt tension when machine is not in use” may have something to do with the slipping on my machine at least! Your SB16 looks great!
    Thanks, I had more slipping before I "discovered" the tension set bolt on the back side of the pedastal. I guess not all lathes have it but if you do you need to loosen it and set the belt tension with the adjustments inside the front cover, then snug up the tension set bolt on the back and lock it with the nut. Much better now. I found the info in the "How to keep your lathe in trim" publication from South bend. You can find it for free to read on the internet if you don't already have a copy. Mine still wobbles a little and occasional slipping but I am at the bottom of my adjustment range so not a lot I can do there. I ordered a new belt to start over on the adjustments!


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