What's new
What's new

Glued Belts,are you still having good luck?

Ronniet

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Location
Amarillo Texas
I have been thinking when I finish up this project that I would like to try the glued serpentine belt method.
Is that still working?
My pulleys are 1.5 wide and I have been using a rubber conveyor belt cut down and metal laced and is far superior to the leather belt. But would like to get away from the click clack.
So I thought I would try the Black Shoe Goo and a 1.375 wide belt from a diesel.
wider mean more glue area and gripping strength?
Ron
 
I know some here have had good luck with glued serpentine belts, but in my case the glue joint has always failed at some point - it may be poor technique on my part, but I finally laced the belt together with 40 lb. nylon fishing line. I drilled small holes in the belt, enough to get several strands of line through. The belt I have on now has 7 grooves, and I drilled in each groove individually, 4 holes at about 1/4" from the ends and the other 3 at about 7/16" from the ends. - I found that only one or two strands tended to cut into the belt, but 5 or 6 seems to hold very well. I tried several lacing methods, including the one in HTRAL, but I found that a very simple lace job works well. The laces from each groove are not connected with each other at all - each one is individually tied off with basic fishing knots. The lace pattern looks similar to the way the metal lace looks. The nylon line does not click at all. So if you try the glue and it won't work for you, give this a try.
 
I also laced mine with 40# fishing line with good results. I laced it as shown in HTRAL and after a year or so, one of the knots came loose and it started to pull apart. A quick trip to the tackle box for line and I had it relaced and ready to go in about 20 minutes. Personally, I wouldn't "mess" with the glue.

Tom
 
Several years ago I glued up a timing belt for my old gal Monarch. The belt has held up great, but the belt is a little stiff at the joint and the lathe does not run quite as smoothly as it did with leather and clips. I truly like the no stretch, no slip timing belt, but because of the minor vibration, I will try lacing or clips if I do it again.
For the record, I used a 2.5-inch long, cord to cord, lap joint that I joined with regular super glue. The ends of the belt were cut at 30 degrees for quieter operation.
Have fun with it, Mike,
 
the deal-breaker for me was that i had to re-adjust tension for each step on the pulleys - so i went the drill and lace route and it has worked out well.
with the serpentine belt and a 1 HP motor on a 9" you can take cuts that no 9" has any business taking- honestly, with the serpentine belt, 1/2 HP is more than enough for anything i`ll ever do on a 9"
 
I never had any luck with glues or lacing. The hour I spent pulling the spindle and countershaft was probably the most beneficial time I spent on the lathe.
 
I never had any luck with glues or lacing. The hour I spent pulling the spindle and countershaft was probably the most beneficial time I spent on the lathe.

Cant do that with an underdrive.
Still I would like to hear more about the serpentine and glue or lacing. If you glued and had success I would like to know what glue and how you went about it, if it were laced with success I would like to know exactly how and what type of line or lacing?
I really dont want to work on a belt ever so often. but dont care of the leather or rubber with metal clips.
Ron
 
Just a note on lacing a belt.
If you lace using single strands and knots, you are unlikely to get them absolutely even. One will always be a little shorter or little tighter than the other. This means that more pressure will be put on that one shorter or tighter lacing. By using one strand of lacing the pressure will equalize through all the holes giving even pressure. Yes if the 1 knot comes loose the belt will come apart, but it is not likely to ruin the belt. But if one knot comes loose, using multiple lacing it will be putting more pressure on what remains and you may not find out until it's too late to save the belt.

Joe,
 
I don't remember when I glued up the serpentine belt on my 9" SB, but it has been a number of years and it it is still working fine. I used Loctite glue for all plastics. Gary P. Hansen
 
I had a glued belt on my 10L. I cried a little when I cut it to move the lathe. I replaced it with a piece of hay belting from the local farm and barn. I used the staple clip deals to attach the belt ends, so I could disassemble it in the future. The hay belting is a multiply nylon and rubber about .25" thick. I can put much more tension on the belt and the lathe reverses better than ever even at top speed with almost no slippage.
 
I used the loctite glue multiple times but had a hard rime getting it to work so ended up using rivetts. Two side by side. Hasn't given me trouble since. Might have to try the fishing line as the rivetts make noise over pulleys.
 
I have a glued belt on my 9" Junior lathe that I installed in 1975. It's a relatively narrow plastic-faced belt that I bought from the Sound Bend dealer in Detroit. He told me I'd never need another one even though it looked a little "light" for the job at hand. The belt he sold me was the correct length for a bench-mount 9 Jr. It came with the ends already skived and he gave me a little bottle of glue to use to put the thing together. I have, to this day, no idea what was in the bottle but it worked as he said it would and I have not had one moment's trouble with that belt in ....what.....35 years. I'd say it was the right glue!
 
I know some here have had good luck with glued serpentine belts, but in my case the glue joint has always failed at some point - it may be poor technique on my part, but I finally laced the belt together with 40 lb. nylon fishing line. I drilled small holes in the belt, enough to get several strands of line through. The belt I have on now has 7 grooves, and I drilled in each groove individually, 4 holes at about 1/4" from the ends and the other 3 at about 7/16" from the ends. - I found that only one or two strands tended to cut into the belt, but 5 or 6 seems to hold very well. I tried several lacing methods, including the one in HTRAL, but I found that a very simple lace job works well. The laces from each groove are not connected with each other at all - each one is individually tied off with basic fishing knots. The lace pattern looks similar to the way the metal lace looks. The nylon line does not click at all. So if you try the glue and it won't work for you, give this a try.

Lacing is quite effective. A few years ago the one inch belt on my Logan broke late at night just before finishing a project. I cut out the clips and laced in a new section of belt, two joints though, per the Logan manual and went back to work. I used that belt for a year before fixing it with a nuw belt. Laced the new belt too. As a side benefit there was no more clank, clank from the clip.

Important is to groove the pulley side for the lacing. I hadn't thought about multiple strands causing a problems but in hind sight it makes sense.

Fishing line is stretchy and for that reason I would question its use for machine belt lacing. I used a kevelar thread sold for model control line airplanes made by Sullivan. My supply is old but it should still be available.
 
Well I'm blaming this thread for my belt giving way today. Figures being that I opened my mouth yesterday saying I hadn't had any troubles with it in a couple years. The rivets pulled through the belt. I believe it was from me adjusting the tension a bit tight. Oh well. Guess it'll give me an excuse to try lacing it.
 
I have a glued serpentine on my 9A. Three years of almost daily use and its still holding. I have never had to adjust the tension. I'm about to put one on my 10L. I hope I have the same luck.
 
Here's what I'm using: Expertise. Much more flexible and grippier than automotive serpentine. I've had instances where I've forgotten to pull the tension lever, and not realized it until I was finished.
 
I bought a new belt off eBay for a diesel, it is 1 3/8" wide, plenty long enough and with 10 ribs.
I dont want to waste it so I bought the Shoe Goo Black glue to glue it with and some Kevlar thread to lace it with but I only have one chance with the belt to do it right.
I found a lacing pattern on a farm web site that I will use if I lace it but so far its unclear of how the shieving is done to glue it?
I never saw any pictures of the correct way to grind down the belt.
will attach pictures of the belt lacing.
The 10 rib belt fits my 1 1/2" wide pulleys better than the original leather or the conveyor I made for it, looking forward to using it.
Ronsam-lacing-blog-photo.jpg
sam-lacing-blog-diagram.jpg
 
Well luckily when I initially cut my belt to length I adjusted out the pulley to the max length so when the rivets broke loose I was able to cut my belt down and laced it. I just did a butt joint and drilled holes about 3/16" from the end through the grooves. I then used braided nylon from Home Depot to lace it with. Seems to be working perfectly and is very quiet so I'm pleased.
 
Well luckily when I initially cut my belt to length I adjusted out the pulley to the max length...
On that note..
When I first decided I wanted a continuous belt on my nine I measured, with a tape, around the pulleys with no consideration for the adjustment. Went to Napa or wherever, bought my belt, went home to happily install it. Got the spindle back in, got the countershaft all in place, and then I noticed it- I had measured the belt length with the tensioner in the 'off' position so to speak. Son of a bitch. Lol, back to the store...
 
I bought a Gates Micro V belt for my South Bend 13 and cut, drilled and laced it. I was able to get 26 strands holding the ends together. The Micro V is trunucated (flattened) on the bottom and works well with a flat pulley.
 








 
Back
Top