H10 riser blocks, cast from hard lead, brass or bronze?

Johns new path · Jul 11, 2020

I'd like to raise my H10 up to a 12-13" swing. Looked at cost to get cast iron material for risers. Not cheap. Wondering if casting the parts from a hard lead alloy would produce sufficiently hard parts. 70/30 lead/antimony will get you around 26 BHN. The blocks are (headstock at least) are stationary items. My concern would be that the material may deform over time from compression/vibration. bronze would clearly be the best choice, but there's the cost issue again. If the lead allow is marginal (I expect), what if I included iron pillars in the casting, similar to the pillars installed when bedding a rifle action in a stock? (between ways and head stock, obviously not around the mounting bolts).

I'd appreciate any advice on this.

I am aware of the limitations inherent in increasing the swing of a small lathe.

Thanks.

johnoder · Jul 11, 2020

Not cheap

Applies to all one off castings simply due to the large labor component - don't forget the Patternmaker will want to be paid also

ONLY practical approach is block of metal (think heavy steel plate) with the part that doesn't look like a riser block sawed / machined off

OR

Fabbed up from plate via welding and machining

Example here

Johns new path · Jul 11, 2020

Thanks John. I would be making the pattern and casting them myself. Make pattern once, then offer sets for sale. Starting to think lead would be a no-go. Maybe use scrap brass faucets, fittings and such?

Will probably end up going the way you did, just thought this was worth tossing around.

Thanks, JC

johnoder · Jul 11, 2020

Yes, one can do wonders if they have the time and inclination

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...castings-look-good-255315/?highlight=castings

have fun

iwananew10K · Jul 11, 2020

i dont think youll have much success selling riser sets....they have to be fitted...that involves quite a bit.

suggestion.....the head only needs two rails..

The tail....since youre going thru the trouble....just replace the tailstock.

one from a 12-13" Taiwanese machine WILL fit the bed profile of a heavy 10...then its just a scraping job to fit it up...youll get a much more useable tailstock that way...4ish inches of travel and MT3.

Cost of it be offset since no need for patterns and castings.

im guessing your primary use is gun work...you want all the tailstock you can get.
the stock heavy 10 tail is its weakest point IMO

carlherrnstein · Jul 11, 2020

Why cast anything? Solid brass bar can be had and if you want you can get cast iron bar. Some of the Taiwanese lathes have a swivel adjustment in the tailstock scraping may not be needed.

Johns new path · Jul 11, 2020

Good points guys, thanks. I sometimes get an idea in my head that would be the most time consuming way to do something... but it would be cheaper.. Will go the steel bar route and make them on the mill.

I was not aware that Taiwan ts's would fit the H10. Thanks 10K.

iwananew10K · Jul 11, 2020

dont get me wrong...they arent a perfect fit.
but they are close enough that one can be fitted without too much greif.

some scraping will be required.

a decent alternate is a Logan 11" tailstock...still 4ish inches travel not sure if they are MT3 from memory

SBLatheman · Jul 11, 2020

Johns new path said:
I'd like to raise my H10 up to a 12-13" swing. Looked at cost to get cast iron material for risers. Not cheap. Wondering if casting the parts from a hard lead alloy would produce sufficiently hard parts. 70/30 lead/antimony will get you around 26 BHN. The blocks are (headstock at least) are stationary items. My concern would be that the material may deform over time from compression/vibration. bronze would clearly be the best choice, but there's the cost issue again. If the lead allow is marginal (I expect), what if I included iron pillars in the casting, similar to the pillars installed when bedding a rifle action in a stock? (between ways and head stock, obviously not around the mounting bolts).

I'd appreciate any advice on this.

I am aware of the limitations inherent in increasing the swing of a small lathe.

Thanks.

To see what a 12 3/4” South Bend is supposed to look like, see this link

Latheman Special
Ted

kitno455 · Jul 12, 2020

I have a feeling you'll be time and money ahead if you just get a bigger lathe.

allan

michiganbuck · Jul 12, 2020

With making your own pattern a small casting shop might cast the risers of steel or iron. Likely you will need a mill of grinder to get them close enough to scrape in. being an experienced machinist or the like it should not be a tough job.
Have to add a spacer gear of sorts to the end gearing.
The taller tail use is a good idea, but a tail riser is the easy one.. I would raise the headstock with compression glued marine plywood. Nobody would know after painted and it would be pretty/very solid.
Agree buying a larger lathe would be best.
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H10 riser blocks, cast from hard lead, brass or bronze?

Johns new path

Plastic

johnoder

Diamond

Johns new path

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johnoder

Diamond

iwananew10K

Diamond

carlherrnstein

Aluminum

Johns new path

Plastic

iwananew10K

Diamond

SBLatheman

Titanium

kitno455

Titanium

michiganbuck

Diamond

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