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Have a few random questions about my 9A restoration.

CVRIV

CVRIV

Aluminum
Joined
Feb 19, 2021
Im almost done putting this machine together.

Question#1: iIm missing the spring for the eccentric shaft used by the back gear of the headstock. What kind of spring was in there? Length, stiffness, shape, etc.

Question#2: The restoration book calls for Super Lube inside the headstock belt cone and back gear shaft. Im going to order some, but what about the nipples need to get it into these areas? What nipples do i need? Also, i noticed an oil hole on the cross slide as well. Does super lube go there as well? Do I even need nipples with a grease gun to get that grease in there? They sell plastic tubes. Can i just stick the tip in the hole and squeeze it in? So i read that oil was originally used instead of grease. I think id rather do that but what which oil to use? I used the ptfe oil/ grease to coat the back gear shaft and eccentric bearings prior to install.

Sorry i dont have pics. Ive been stupid busy.
 
Last edited:
As for Q#2, stick with Type C oil for the cone lubs. The grease that is called for is no longer available and no modern equivalents exist.

Whatever you do, DO NOT PUT GREASE in the cones.
 
SLK001 said:
As for Q#2, stick with Type C oil for the cone lubs. The grease that is called for is no longer available and no modern equivalents exist.

Whatever you do, DO NOT PUT GREASE in the cones.
Click to expand...


I dont want to use grease. I want to use oil. Can i use type c oil for the back gear too?

Im ready to mount this thing to my bench. I wondering about the angle of the motor mount. As of right now my motor mount is pretty much vertical when locked into position and leabs forward a bit when unlocked. Check my pics and tell me if this is right. Im using an endless belt thats a bit smalled than the old leather because i figured the old leather was stretched.
0408211419a_HDR.jpg0408211419_HDR.jpg0408211427.jpg0408211428_HDR.jpg
 
Use Type C oil in the back gears too.

Your mount looks fine. The handle only needs to "break over" when the belt is tight. As for leaning, as long as it doesn't bang into the rear of the headstock, you'll be okay. Just make sure that the pulleys are planar with each other.
 
The mount looks good. There is a paper that came with SB9 lathes that gave dimensions for the mount. Since you do not have a taper attachment you should be good to go. Before you bolt it down make sure your belt clears the motor on all pulleys. All that I put together I use a 510K6 serpentine belt. 51 inches long. 10" between the rear lathe foot bolt center to the center of the pivot bolt. +/- Nice job!!!

Get a cogged B belt for the drive belt. They run better than a solid belt in that the sharp bend at the small pulley requires more tension to make the curve. IMHO.
 
Thanks everyone:) ok ill use the type 7 on the back gear.

I used some oil based krylon paint i got at a Homedepot. I thinned it with paint thinner and applied numerous coats. Some parts i even baked in the oven at a very low temp to get them warm. Fully dried super quick. Every part was cleaned thoroughly. The lathe is greasy now from me touching it while assembling etc but still looks great.

So like i said i got a serp belt thatvwas slightly smaller than the orignal leather. I checked all pulley positions and the belt clears. The motor juncrion box would be the problem if the belt wasnt to clear, but i coupd remove it and apply a work-around with that. Ill probably position everything and bolt down on saturday and then finish assembling.

Amazon bags were used to slide the lathe around. The bench has like 1/4 thick stick-on felt sliders. That should help with vibration. I might end up putting a 3/4" thick rubber stall mat under the bench soon.
 
Here another pic of the directional switch i rebuilt. Notice the acylic contact holders i made. One of the originals was made of wood. I wasnt ok with that. The acrylic will hold up fine.

0405211529a_HDR.jpg
 
CVRIV said:
Here another pic of the directional switch i rebuilt. Notice the acylic contact holders i made. One of the originals was made of wood. I wasnt ok with that. The acrylic will hold up fine.
Click to expand...

Probably the real original was made out of phenolic resin, that broke during its life. Some previous owner fashioned a replacement out of wood and gave it more life. If the contacts don't get hot, your acrylic holders should give it even more life.

A question: Is your serp belt glued, or is it a continuous loop?
 
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