Heavy 10 is cutting a drastic amount of unwanted taper - long post with pics - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    I may be pounding sand here , but not knowing the length of the bed & the length of the crack , could ya just shorten the bed some & relocate teh tooling pin & have a workin lathe ?
    animal

  2. #62
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    nope, head mounting/gearbox/belting features would be lost.

  3. #63
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    The taper attachment, gear box, tail stock, back gear, bull gear, banjo and idler gear, thread dial, cross slide, bearings, saddle, lead screw, spindle gear, gear guards, drum switch and tooling are already sold and shipped.

    There's no going back.

  4. Likes michiganbuck, Paolo_MD liked this post
  5. #64
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    So, what are you going to do with the bed?

    allan

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    Guess if the bed is cracked, and the crack in a position worthy you might try drilling a couple 3/8 or 1/2 inch bolt holes and bolts through to give it a try, you might end up with an OK machine/or not...couple hours work and you would still have all the part-out if it comes to that..
    Glad you found the problem. "Perhaps post a photo of the crack"
    Yes I would drill the end of the crack to stop it's growing any more, If possible, and would then seem safe..

    Thinking a dirty bugger who would sell such if seller knew it had that problem.

    Still it was good thread..I had some thoughts but I am not the lathe guy, so just had a good time reading.

    Re: I always like to ask "Is there anything wrong with this machine"
    Makes an honest gut tell and the lier squirm/worry that you might come back and punch him in the nose.

    PS. Oh I missed that post #63.. good all sold..

  7. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsracer201 View Post
    The taper attachment, gear box, tail stock, back gear, bull gear, banjo and idler gear, thread dial, cross slide, bearings, saddle, lead screw, spindle gear, gear guards, drum switch and tooling are already sold and shipped.

    There's no going back.
    Just curious, but how much MORE did you get for the parts than what you paid for the lathe? Also, did you cart the bed to a scrap iron dealer?

  8. #67
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    I haven’t broken even yet. I over paid for the lathe but around here when one pops up you better grab it because it won’t last long. All total with the tooling you guys never saw I was $2,800 in it, but that was the lathe, buying some bits from Ted, 3j, 4j, steady rest, follow rest, Aloris axa, micro stop, live and dead centers, drive plate, face plate, Jacobs chucks, 5c drawbar set, etc, that I all purchased separately. The lathe came with nothing.

    I’ll break even I think.

    Haven’t done anything with the bed. Might cut it up for anchors. Our river beds are nothing but rocks and it’s common to get one wedged and have to cut the rope.

  9. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by hsracer201 View Post
    ...All total with the tooling you guys never saw I was $2,800 in it, but that was the lathe, buying some bits from Ted, 3j, 4j, steady rest, follow rest, Aloris axa, micro stop, live and dead centers, drive plate, face plate, Jacobs chucks, 5c drawbar set, etc, that I all purchased separately. The lathe came with nothing...
    This is why I recommend to avoid buying a bare machine; better to pay more for a well equipped one.

  10. #69
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    In the automotive engine rebuild industry the use magnaflux machines to find cracks. If you check the internet for someone in your area that has the equipment they can probably test the lathe bed. If the bed is only cracked on the place you see, then I suspect it can be repaired by brazing or arc welding by a pro. The lathe bed is worn out so it should be planed anyway. and the saddle and rest of the machine scraped. Many hobbyists have a lot of time and money, and once you repair the bed, the machine would be pretty simple to re-scrape. I have a class up in Vacaville CA in April and I could teach you to scrape.
    Magnufluxing Crack Inspection Crankshafts Engine Blocks Cylinder Heads: MA,CT,RI,VT,NH,ME,NY,NJ


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