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Heavy 10 Paint
- Thread starter DonTen
- Start date
- Replies 16
- Views 1,678
iwananew10K
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2010
- Location
- moscow,ohio
a quart will do it.
FWIW- its hard to beat Sherwin Williams all surface enamel (oil based)
FWIW- its hard to beat Sherwin Williams all surface enamel (oil based)
That is the way I was going. But how much do I need to buy? I got this off another post showing a good formula for the paint and I was planing to use it. I just don't want to buy a full gallon if I don't need to.
Ohio Mike
Titanium
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2008
- Location
- Central Ohio, USA
Yep a quart should do it.
Ohio Mike
Titanium
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2008
- Location
- Central Ohio, USA
Its personal preference. I think you'll be happy. That Sherwin-Williams goes on nice.
mcload
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2007
- Location
- Houston, Texas
I would highly recommend that you take a small part or maybe a gear cover to SW and let them match it first.
You'll get the color that you are most familiar seeing your lathe in.
Of course, any color range is possible, however there are really only two "machine gray" colors; one is dark,
the other is middle gray (not white). You'll see a lot of different colors on peoples lathes due to poor lighting
and/or lighting source types (fluorescence vs LED vs filament).
I bought a qt of SW high gloss enamel based on an original color on the lathe I'm currently working on.
I applied it to the apron and ultimately didn't like the greenish color. See first photo...you can clearly see the
green pigment in the paint. So I just went back to the same old medium gray I've always used. It looks good in
photos but still looks dark in low-light conditions. I can give you the formula if you like, just let me know.
(The sample can in the above thread looks greenish to me).
I always apply the SW out of the can with a good brush...try to avoid the cheap china bristles. And I would count on 2 coats minimum,
with additional coats on the saddle and apron...wherever there is going to be extra wear and junk.
The only problem I have is getting a good flat application on large expanses like the gear cover without brush strokes.
Spraying would be much better. I do have a DeVilbliss automotive gun, but too lazy to thin out a mixture just to spray that one piece.
There are times when the enamel just seems to look "gooey" if that makes any sense. If I had my druthers, I would spray all of the pieces with an automotive spray gun, and several coats...but that's a lot of work.
Also, keep in mind that SW can always darken your paint a little if you need to, but not lighten it. Whatever you choose will look fine,
tho yellow and/or pink aren't exactly lathe colors to me (just saying).
A quart will do your whole machine, almost twice over.
PMc
View attachment 314758 View attachment 314759 View attachment 314761 View attachment 314762
You'll get the color that you are most familiar seeing your lathe in.
Of course, any color range is possible, however there are really only two "machine gray" colors; one is dark,
the other is middle gray (not white). You'll see a lot of different colors on peoples lathes due to poor lighting
and/or lighting source types (fluorescence vs LED vs filament).
I bought a qt of SW high gloss enamel based on an original color on the lathe I'm currently working on.
I applied it to the apron and ultimately didn't like the greenish color. See first photo...you can clearly see the
green pigment in the paint. So I just went back to the same old medium gray I've always used. It looks good in
photos but still looks dark in low-light conditions. I can give you the formula if you like, just let me know.
(The sample can in the above thread looks greenish to me).
I always apply the SW out of the can with a good brush...try to avoid the cheap china bristles. And I would count on 2 coats minimum,
with additional coats on the saddle and apron...wherever there is going to be extra wear and junk.
The only problem I have is getting a good flat application on large expanses like the gear cover without brush strokes.
Spraying would be much better. I do have a DeVilbliss automotive gun, but too lazy to thin out a mixture just to spray that one piece.
There are times when the enamel just seems to look "gooey" if that makes any sense. If I had my druthers, I would spray all of the pieces with an automotive spray gun, and several coats...but that's a lot of work.
Also, keep in mind that SW can always darken your paint a little if you need to, but not lighten it. Whatever you choose will look fine,
tho yellow and/or pink aren't exactly lathe colors to me (just saying).
A quart will do your whole machine, almost twice over.
PMc
View attachment 314758 View attachment 314759 View attachment 314761 View attachment 314762
mcload
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2007
- Location
- Houston, Texas
Something tells me you've already got your paint and that this might be a moot point...but that's okay.
I just thought I'd add a photo showing the darker (Evil Empire) gray on my Atlas shaper vs the lighter
(Rebel Alliance) gray that's on my 9" Model A lathe. (Yes, I'm a bit nuts these days)
The SW formula is shown in a photo too, and should be easy enough for the SW folks to read off your phone
or you can just print it out.
Is it me or has this SW stuff gotten more expensive?! It's still relatively cheap all things considered and
for how long it lasts.
PMc
View attachment 314776 View attachment 314777
I just thought I'd add a photo showing the darker (Evil Empire) gray on my Atlas shaper vs the lighter
(Rebel Alliance) gray that's on my 9" Model A lathe. (Yes, I'm a bit nuts these days)
The SW formula is shown in a photo too, and should be easy enough for the SW folks to read off your phone
or you can just print it out.
Is it me or has this SW stuff gotten more expensive?! It's still relatively cheap all things considered and
for how long it lasts.
PMc
View attachment 314776 View attachment 314777
Mine was painted an ugly bright green by someone. The gray I bought looks pretty good and much better that the green that's on it.
SLK001
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Location
- Coral Springs, FL USA
SW paint has always been expensive. Create a "My S-W" account on their web page and you will get emails with discounts up to 30% off about once or twice a month. With the discount, their paint is comparable to any other paint price.
Yea I did that and got 30% off on what I bought. Well I started cleaning it and getting it ready for stripping the old paint. I hate that ugly green.
1yesca
Stainless
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2004
dam that thing looks like the bottom 1/2 of a fat ass old lady
mcload
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2007
- Location
- Houston, Texas
yeah, I see what you mean. Yours isn't the first I've seen in that shade either. I probably would have been very attracted to
the idea of having some of those heavy frames sand blasted.
I have a file of pics of lathes in "as found" condition; these are the green ones (below):
Disclaimer, I have no idea who these lathes belong to nor do make any judgement as to their condition or color. To each their own.
PMc
View attachment 314899 View attachment 314900 View attachment 314901 View attachment 314902 View attachment 314903
jmm03
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2004
- Location
- ventura,ca.usa
Don, you probably already know but it is against the law in florida to paint your lathe gray or green...
mcload
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2007
- Location
- Houston, Texas
But in Florida, blue and/or red are okay!
just saying.
PMc
View attachment 314914 View attachment 314915
Well I got some painting done. I think it looks pretty good. Here is a video of me removing the old paint with a small air die grinder I have. It actually worked better than the 8" sander I had and was much faster. Who would have thought that small grinder would work faster.
https://youtu.be/hx6DonBinnY
https://youtu.be/hx6DonBinnY
