Heavy 10 Plain Bearing Spindle Adjustment
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  1. #1
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    Default Heavy 10 Plain Bearing Spindle Adjustment

    When I received this machine it had been partially disassembled and painted. After replacing the wicks I'm reassembling. I have .002 vertical movement on the inboard end of the spindle and .010 on the outboard end. I can grasp the spindle by each end without the chuck and turn it by hand but it is not free. If I remove .005 from one side of the outboard bearing cap I cannot turn the shaft by hand. If the chuck was installed I might be able to move it though I think it would be tight.
    I didn't find any glaring high spots after bluing the bearings and turning the shaft inside with tightened caps, though the bearings have scratches they do not appear to be galled. The spindle bearing surfaces are slick. I am not a machinist and need some experienced direction to proceed if you would be so kind.

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    Bronze bearings? If so, I would guess that they are slightly out-of-round. If so, they may have to be coaxed back into round.

    First, remove ALL the shims (but mark their initial locations) and tighten both caps. Don't try to turn the spindle, as it will be too tight. Let it sit overnight like that.

    Then, replace all the shims back in their original position and redo your lift test. If the result it out of spec (which it will be), remove small amounts of shims (0.001" or so) at a time, let run for a short time and retest.

    Repeat as needed, but be aware that as the bearing forms to its new cap height, it will slowly loosen, which will mean that you will have to remove still more shims. This will allow you to sneak up on your final shim height and not suffer from an over tight spindle.

    Also, try to keep the shims in balance on each side - don't remove all of them from one side. Aim for the amount of shims still on the caps to be within 0.001" of each other.

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    Which type of bearings do you have? If bronze, are the expanders installed correctly?

    allan

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    Not bronze, this is a 1942 with plain cast bearings.

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    Also I have yet to install a belt and can't run it. It's driven from underneath and wanted to resolve this problem in case I had to remove the spindle.

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    Had a loose bit of felt get loose and jam up things when I replaced mine.
    You did hold the felts down with a bit of wire through the oil cup holes while installing the spindle, yes?
    Cast Iron bearing machines (like mine) use a round felt with a spring that sticks up though a hole in the bottom half of the bearing.

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    There are shims for the cast iron bearings for sale on eBay,
    If you are unsure of the right shim thickness (peel to the
    right thickness).

    I have an extra set, PM if you want them.

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    Just went back and re-read the original post, removing 5 thou from one side only seems like it might be an issue, the cap would be cocked over.
    Have you tried with oil on the bearings?

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    Yes I pinned the felts but have removed them temporarily till the final assembly. I am using homemade shims as it had none when I got it. What are the original shim thicknesses?

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    Using some Prussian blue or a similar marking fluid can help you see the tight spots. A sharpie works also.

    SOUTH BEND UNDER MOUNT ONLY 10K LAMINATED BRASS SHIMS MADE IN AMERICA U.S.A. | eBay

    Be sure you get them for your lathe
    SOUTHBEND BRONZE BEARING UNDER MOUNT HEAVY 10L LAMINATED BRASS SHIMS | eBay

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    Update:
    I juggled shims and am testing with an ancient gear drive drill running the chuck. Rear bearing heated up to 102 degrees and then settled down to 80 degrees, this is with oil. I have not pulled the spindle for inspection but i'm hopeful that i'm on to something here.
    One more question, when I got it the machine came with a fiber washer between the takeup collar and bearing. I got another takeup collar and it came with a metal washer. Which is correct or both? I have room for both I think.

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    ^^^
    I have a 9A that came with fiber- I replaced with metal and needle bearing "mod".

    I'm guessing the 10L is similar in design, if so it's worth the few bucks for that upgrade.

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    Your clearance numbers don't sound right. Is your indicator mounted on the headstock? Are your headstock clamp bolts tight?

  14. #14
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    I have got the clearance down to .002 and .003 without the spindle being too tight. Maybe after running it awhile I may be able to tighten it up more.


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