Heavy 10 Value?

I was out buying some tools today and came across this heavy 10, I don't know a lot about the lathe, I didn't get great pictures of everything, but everything felt tight, it was under power and runs without excessive noise. Looks like a couple of chucks, collets, and a taper attachment are included. What would the experts consider a good price to be? I did double check the spindle bore, and it is 1 5/16 on this machine.

Additional picture

id say if it runs well and you can get it for 2000 you done real good.

Didn't a batch of nice ones sell at auction not long ago for $4500-$5K each?

well, without knowing if there is wear on the ways, (looks like it), and if the spindle has much runout, who knows? those will determine value. somewhere between 2k and 5K ?

large dials, taper attachment, collets and closer, lever clutch, double tumbler, later style tailstock. You really don't want it. Oh, and where is it located?

allan

Probably going to pull the trigger, just trying to figure out (given the limited available info) what a good price is.

Looks nice to me, and 2K sounds like a real bargain if you can get it for that. I think its worth more quite frankly.
Don't forget you also get a decent bench/stand and lots of really nice extra tools and add-ons that by themselves, can fetch a pretty penny.
I'd check the motor carriage for cracks in the cast iron tray too. Go for it, otherwise someone else will. Wish I had it!

PMc

PS: I'll never be able to figure out why some of the plaques on gearboxes get so beat up!

On the minus side, it has a threaded spindle nose and non-hardened bed ways.

Tom

Could very well be the angle of the shot and/or the lighting- but it looks like there could be a very heavy wear ridge in picture #4.

The front V-way to the left of the saddle- shouldn't have much, if any, of a ridge towards the top on the outside.

Minor wear is no big deal, but if it's heavy it would affect accuracy for certain operations, but more importantly is an overall indication of possible wear to other parts.

How much backlash on the screws (cross-slide, compound)? Any visible wear on the leadscrew?

It could be a $500-$700 parts machine, or could be worth three times as much. Depends...

tobnpr said:

Could very well be the angle of the shot and/or the lighting- but it looks like there could be a very heavy wear ridge in picture #4. The front V-way to the left of the saddle- shouldn't have much, if any, of a ridge towards the top on the outside.

Click to expand...

Since you mention it (and good eyes, by the way), how do you go about measuring this wear?
I'm guessing by placing a ground bit across the upper and lower ridge of the way with a depth micro used to
measure the worn area (minus depth of bit, of course)as well as the unworn ridge at top of way.
Better way?

------------

After posting that question, I looked around for this topic and read this good thread:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...per-acceptable-196883/?highlight=Measure+Wear

I realize that measuring the depth of the wear channel on a way is really not going to tell you much in regards
to how a machine performs as there are so many other parameters that affect "wear".
But then again, if a machine is not running, perhaps depth of way wear "channel" might be the only thing to go by.

PMc

well, we worked out a deal, I am headed to pick it up next week. The price is right, and I don't need anything with ultra precision....I am stepping up from a chinesium brand bench top unit. I am hoping some patience, a floor jack, and a pallet jack will safely get it loaded onto a trailer.

shelby987 said:

I am hoping some patience, a floor jack, and a pallet jack will safely get it loaded onto a trailer.

Click to expand...

One man? Not a chance. If you have a portable shop crane, then you might have some luck. If you DON'T have one of these, then you might want to go by Harbor Freight and pick one up. You'll need it to get it OFF the trailer, if you ever get it on.

Your other option would be to move it in parts, but that is probably not practical. That thing weights around 1100 pounds, with the lathe approximately 600 pounds and the cabinet/motor/drive around 500. Unless you can dead lift these amounts, go buy or rent a shop hoist/crane, or rent a lift truck.

The plan was to get it onto a pallet jack, then use a come-along to pull the pallet jack onto the trailer/ramp.

I have a forklift to unload, so that side of the equation isn't a problem.

I do have a "portable" cherry picker, I had thought I might toss it in the bed of the truck and bring it along.

I had thought about breaking it into table/cabinet and lathe sections, but I am not sure that 500lbs. sections make it more manageable than a single 1,000lbs piece.

shelby987 said:

The plan was to get it onto a pallet jack, then use a come-along to pull the pallet jack onto the trailer/ramp.

Click to expand...

I just did exactly this with a 3200lb milling machine, come along the pallet jack right up the small tilt trailer. The only thing I needed other help for was to place blocks under the machine when I pry barred it up. Had to get it high enough for the pallet jack to fit under it. The rest was gravy.

shelby987 said:

The plan was to get it onto a pallet jack, then use a come-along to pull the pallet jack onto the trailer/ramp.

I have a forklift to unload, so that side of the equation isn't a problem.

I do have a "portable" cherry picker, I had thought I might toss it in the bed of the truck and bring it along.

I had thought about breaking it into table/cabinet and lathe sections, but I am not sure that 500lbs. sections make it more manageable than a single 1,000lbs piece.

Click to expand...

In one piece, it is very top-heavy. Did you ever wonder how gear change selectors, apron cranks and cross slide cranks get broken off? By moving a top-heavy lathe and having it topple over.

I just moved a 4 1/2 foot model in a Uhaul 5’x9’ trailer. It’s moveable with one person, not fun but doable. Pull off everything that is easily removed (tailstock, taper attachment, cross slide) and put directly into your truck... don’t set it to the side and hope you remember it.

A 4x4 cut to about 24” long, tucked under the lip of the chip pan on each end and cargo strapped in place will allow you to use a small floor jack to lift it off the floor to insert blocks or dollies under the feet. Or lifting strap through the cast bed webbing and your cherry picker could lift up each end for placement of blocks or dollies. The cabinet is mostly hollow so a pallet jack might be tricky front to back, probably not possible end to end

Its pretty much right at 1000 pounds and top heavy. A four foot heavy lifting strap fed around the web castings in the bed right in front of the headstock should allow your portable crane to lift and stabilize it. I wouldn’t wrap the strap around the ways as this could put pressure on the lead screw and bend it. You can move the saddle around to balance it end to end if needed, its pretty balanced from to back.

If your crane will lift it high enough to get the trailer under the headstock end great. Set the head stock end in the trailer on pipe sections and the tailstock end on blocks. Move the crane to the tailstock end and support it. At this point you should be able to roll it into the trailer on the pipes and cherry picker. Once in, remove the pipes and strap it down. I know someone that moved a SB13 in a minivan by themself using a very similar process.

Work slow and deliberate, thinking through each step and subsequent steps and you will be fine. Forklift at the end is easy for unloading.

Good luck

Ben

mcload said:

... PS: I'll never be able to figure out why some of the plaques on gearboxes get so beat up!

Click to expand...

I have often wondered the same! And here's another mystery: how did this original plaque on my 1948 9A survive in nearly mint condition?

Yan Wo said:

I have often wondered the same! And here's another mystery: how did this original plaque on my 1948 9A survive in nearly mint condition?

View attachment 281722

Click to expand...

Yan--probably 'cause the previous owners actually gave a sh-t!!

Yan Wo said:

I have often wondered the same! And here's another mystery: how did this original plaque on my 1948 9A survive in nearly mint condition?

Click to expand...

A 9" lathe was usually owned by an individual - someone who paid for the lathe out of his own pocket, so he had "skin in the game". The larger lathes were usually owned and paid for by a company, so the operators usually couldn't have cared less, because they didn't have "skin in the game".