How to remove crossfeed screw to replace the brass nut

MrChips · Mar 30, 2014

SB A9 4' SN: 49545NAR. (Year ??? Any suggestions as to the year)

I bought some new brass nuts from a fellow member and I reviewed the change procedure in my "A guide to renovation" and they describe removing both the cross feed and compound assemblies by putting a 1/8" pin spanner in the collar hole and unscrewing the assemblies.

Now the compound collar has a hole but the cross feed doesn't. The cross feed has a large dial 0.200", so I'm guessing it may be a homemade unit. There aren't any flats on it either.

Any suggestions on unscrewing the cross feed? I don't want to bugger it up by doing something crude.

Thanks
HH

kitno455 · Mar 30, 2014

Wrap it in brass (or, in a pinch a couple of layers of aluminum soda can), and grab it gently with vice grips. If it does not budge, get some oil in there (look for a little hole if you wind the cross feed back), and heat the casting around the boss.

allan

freeclimbmtb · Mar 31, 2014

I am at this step myself and just (a few hours ago) orered the pin spanner off of eBay. I will try making some "soft jaws" for my vice grips tonight and see if I can get it to budge...but at least I will have the spanner by the end of the week for when I get to reassembly.

promacjoe · Mar 31, 2014

Warning: there should be a set screw on the saddle for oiling the cross feed screw assembly. Make sure you remove it before you try to remove the assembly. If the threads get caught on this set screw you can crack the casting as others have done. Don't force anything. It's much better to ask questions and think about what you're doing than to break something.

Stay safe and have fun.

Joe.

freeclimbmtb · Mar 31, 2014

promacjoe said:
Warning: there should be a set screw on the saddle for oiling the cross feed screw assembly. Make sure you remove it before you try to remove the assembly. If the threads get caught on this set screw you can crack the casting as others have done. Don't force anything. It's much better to ask questions and think about what you're doing than to break something.

Stay safe and have fun.

Joe.

The set screw is Item number 23 on page 2 of this PDF correct? It sits just under the cross slide when it is backed out to flush with the apron edge?
http://www.wswells.com/data/parts/902D.pdf

Just remembering my days of working with a Hanes manual.. "1) Remove bolts. 2) Remove engine." Um..okay...how many bolts? where are they? :skep:

promacjoe · Mar 31, 2014

You are correct, it is Item number 23 on page 2 of that PDF.

There have been people who have not remove this before trying to remove the assembly, And have damaged their saddle. Normally not catastrophic, But if you do something like that you might say a few choice words That only serves to relieve your frustration. But the Damage has been done and there is nothing you can do about it. Think about what you're doing, ask questions, and don't use a sledgehammer to take something apart. That is unless you are just making scrap iron.

Stay safe and have fun.

Joe.

freeclimbmtb · Mar 31, 2014

Thanks Joe,
I (and I'm sure the OP) appriciate the advice. I got to the point of having everything off that didnt requite special tools the other night but was at a stopping point when I didnt have that spanner. I guess I just trained myself not to use toothed jawed tools on things other than hardware I am replacing. Hopefully ACE will have some little piece of brass sheet/bar. If not I might have to dust off one of the bud light cans at the back of the fridge!

freeclimbmtb · Mar 31, 2014

I was able to get mine apart earlier tonight. One tip I found, if you put two strips of aluminum (I'd say 1/16" or so) to protect the surface from the jaws, no matter how tight you clamp down the visegrips slip. But one or two good smacks on the pliers with a hard rubber mallet and it spun free almost instantly!

MrChips · Apr 2, 2014

freeclimbmtb said:
I was able to get mine apart earlier tonight. One tip I found, if you put two strips of aluminum (I'd say 1/16" or so) to protect the surface from the jaws, no matter how tight you clamp down the visegrips slip. But one or two good smacks on the pliers with a hard rubber mallet and it spun free almost instantly!

Thanks for your posting, how far should you take the set screw out, all the way or to some point, need to know before I try to turn the shaft.
Will make a spanner to remove the compound collar.

promacjoe · Apr 2, 2014

MrChips said:
Thanks for your posting, how far should you take the set screw out, all the way or to some point, need to know before I try to turn the shaft.
Will make a spanner to remove the compound collar.

Remove it completely. Just put it in a safe place so you don't lose it. You can put it back in the saddle while you are working on the lead screw assembly.

Stay safe and have fun.

Joe.

wheels17 · Apr 2, 2014

Am I missing something? The OP wants to replace the nut on the crossfeed, not the screw. On my 10K, you can just continue to feed the cross slide toward the back of the lathe, the screw disengages, and you can slide the cross slide off the back without disturbing the screw. Loosen the gib screws before you start, and don't drop the gib. I thought the 9 and 10K were the same in this area.

To replace the nut, you unscrew the screw(#34) in the top of the nut, freeing that odd little pin(#33) that pushes sideways to secure the nut, and take the nut out(don't drop #33). Reverse to reassemble. No need to mess with the screw.

MrChips · Apr 3, 2014

I'm the one missing something, sounds good to me Wheels, I'll try it tomorrow, thanks.

freeclimbmtb · Apr 3, 2014

Yes, wheels is correct. You can loosen the gib screws and crank the crossfeed all the way back and the slide will just come off. (kind of like how the tail stock quill will eject if you bring it out too far) then you can change the nut with the slide on the bench, no need to actually take the cross feed screw out. Same with the compound, loosen the gib screws, back the compound all the way off and it should come out in your hand, then you can dig the nut out of the swivel base if you leave it attached to the cross slide.

My appoligies, I misunderstood and lead you down that dangerous path of "going too far".

My replacement nuts showed up yesterday, super impressed with the quality. The compound fits like a glove, unfortunately I've got some pretty good wear going on on my cross feed screw so it gets a little sloppy in the midrange.

SBLatheman · Apr 3, 2014

freeclimbmtb said:
Yes, wheels is correct. You can loosen the gib screws and crank the crossfeed all the way back and the slide will just come off. (kind of like how the tail stock quill will eject if you bring it out too far) then you can change the nut with the slide on the bench, no need to actually take the cross feed screw out. Same with the compound, loosen the gib screws, back the compound all the way off and it should come out in your hand, then you can dig the nut out of the swivel base if you leave it attached to the cross slide.

You can't do that on the compound :nono:

You must remove the screw assembly
Ted

freeclimbmtb · Apr 3, 2014

SBLatheman said:
You can't do that on the compound You must remove the screw assembly
Ted

Really?

I've had mine apart for a while now and dont remember exactly how I took it apart... I'll make sure not to try that in the future...but just out of curiosity, why can't/shouldn't you take the compound apart that way? Looking at the parts diagram I can't see anything obvious that would be harmed. Is it just a bad habbit?

SBLatheman · Apr 3, 2014

freeclimbmtb said:
Really?

I've had mine apart for a while now and dont remember exactly how I took it apart... I'll make sure not to try that in the future...but just out of curiosity, why can't/shouldn't you take the compound apart that way? Looking at the parts diagram I can't see anything obvious that would be harmed. Is it just a bad habbit?

Really

The nut is in a closed cavity. The screw has to be removed before the nut can be removed. The nut has to be removed to get the top off the swivel.
Ted

freeclimbmtb · Apr 3, 2014

I got ya now. I just went and looked at my compound again and it clicked...I was hoping I could save myself before you had a chance to explain.

Jed clamp · Apr 13, 2014

Who sells new brass cross feed nuts for the 10k? I need one.

SBLatheman · Apr 13, 2014

Jed clamp said:
Who sells new brass cross feed nuts for the 10k? I need one.

I have some N.O.S. CF nuts for the 9"/10K without a taper attachment.
Please send me an email.
Ted
[email protected]

cormier · Apr 27, 2014

Does anybody have the brass nut for a 10K with a tapper attachment for sale???

How to remove crossfeed screw to replace the brass nut

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