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Identify chuck from SB Heavy 10

Dan1900

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 29, 2017
Hello,

Can anyone tell me if this chuck from a South Bend heavy 10 is a Bison chuck? It has a 2-1/4 thread and only the following markings:



6.JPG 5.JPG
 
Hello,

Can anyone tell me if this chuck from a South Bend heavy 10 is a Bison chuck? It has a 2-1/4 thread and only the following markings:



View attachment 218875 View attachment 218876

Looks to be. Pre Bison/Bial "brand-name" era is all. Sov Bloc goods made for export needed a country of origin for some destinations. The lathes they were put onto may have been Czech or Bulgarian and going into Canada or the USA, for example.
 
Does anyone here use an 8" chuck on their heavy 10? Seems like 6 is the norm and I dont want to put a chuck thats too big for the lathe, seeing as its almost 45 lbs.

Any pics of an 8" chuck on a heavy 10 to get a sense of the size?
 
Too big IMO....I can see an 8" 4j but not an 8" 3j...now it would be useful if you only used it with the jaws flipped to hold large short work,(like discs)and a whole other one for smaller work, but it would have to be cheap to make good economic sense.
 
Does anyone here use an 8" chuck on their heavy 10? Seems like 6 is the norm and I dont want to put a chuck thats too big for the lathe, seeing as its almost 45 lbs.

Any pics of an 8" chuck on a heavy 10 to get a sense of the size?

Not even on a nominal 10", actual 12.5" 10EE, and ...just pulled an 8" /200 mm OEM French "Handy" off the HBX-360-BC a nominal 14" swing, US measure in favor of nominal 7 1/4" / 170 mm SCA's.

The issue is not the mass.

As mentioned, the jaw stick-out puts limits on diameter of what can be gripped before something hits. On the larger Cazeneuve, it was the sliding shield at the spindle nose, next the front of the cross, both long before jaws would have reached the bed ways.

The other challenge is that larger diameter chucks also tend to have both a deeper body and taller jaws.

A 10EE only has 20 of "daylight" c-to-c to begin with, the 360-HBX 27" rather than the 30" of the ones with simpler TS.

Far less on either if there is tooling eating out of it in the TS, rather than just a centre.

Most light SB tens actually have more long-axis daylight than my "mediums" do.

A 6" is usually plenty, especially if you also have a faceplate and know how to use it to solve edge-case problems.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. All I have at the moment is a 6" 4 jaw and the size seems perfect. I thought this local deal would be a good snag but you have convinced me to stay in the 6" size.
 
Actually IMO 5" is the better choice for a 3 jaw.

Check out the results a guy on a cheap Shars 3jaw and backimg plate in the rebuilding section.

I have always felt even cheapieas are fine as long as the have the 2 piece jaws...you can MAKE them run true even if they don't out of the box.

Money is much better spent on a good 4 jaw.

But if it's 6" you want these are a bargain..he,he...guys hate it when I post this stuff, but the truth is the truth...for a SB they are perfectly fine.

1pc Lathe Chuck 6" 3 Jaw Self-centering w/Back Plate 2-1/4"-8TPI K11-16A sct888 | eBay
 
Thanks everyone for your input. All I have at the moment is a 6" 4 jaw and the size seems perfect. I thought this local deal would be a good snag but you have convinced me to stay in the 6" size.

There is an old story - if it ain't true, it could be - about a new kid asking an old timer as to which spindle nose a big old warhorse of a lathe had.

Old guy looks puzzled. Says: "it has a 4-jaw!"

Mining and rail job shop, I've seen and used my share that had not been off their spindles in fifty or more years. Tee-slotted the larger ones be, some with individual jaws according, so they served as faceplates now and then, too.

We didn't have, nor need, collets for what we did, so that covered it all.
 








 
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