The infamous South Bend 1307 - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Herb
    My replacements are ABEC-7. I made sure of that during my cross referencing expedition. I am unable to use the original bearing, because he tried to pop the bearing cage out of it like an old ABEC-3 fafnir, and destroyed the cage. (I will attach a picture) As far as the cross slide ways, I didn't realize they had carbide. I will check that out today.

  2. #22
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    Also if you wouldn't mind Herb. Could you tell me the specs on the 110 motor for the lube pump and possibly the brand and or model of the pump? (Since you are the only person that I know that has the same machine)... My pump motor is missing because the previous owner tried to pressure wash the machine and then use the machine within hours of cleaning it, and we all know that if an electric motor gets wet, you NEVER energize it until you are 500% sure that it is dry. And to add insult to injury, he threw out the motor with the perfectly good lube pump still attached to the shaft.

  3. #23
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    Ted

    I certainly don't want to start a pissing contest, and as all I have as ''proof'' is third person oral-and I wrote the Korean Co's name down at the time. Do you have something more definitive? I would love to get rid of the Korean ''image''.

    I hope that you are correct.

    Herb

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Herb in Delco View Post
    Ted

    I certainly don't want to start a pissing contest, and as all I have as ''proof'' is third person oral-and I wrote the Korean Co's name down at the time. Do you have something more definitive? I would love to get rid of the Korean ''image''.

    I hope that you are correct.

    Herb
    Herb,
    I was working at SBL when the last of the 1307s were produced(circa 1976). SBL didn't get into bed with DaeJung until after that(circa 1980)
    After the bankruptcy (1993) SBL was never the same. About 7 years later, it changed hands again. There were still some good people that worked there, but much of the knowledge of the old product lines was gone. Since then, it changed hands 2 more times and moved away from South Bend. Much of the knowledge didn't go with it
    Ted

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  6. #25
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    Ted--Thank you!

    Smeman--Not going to be much help on the pump. SB #150116. It is integral with the motor end, and from where I can see it, looking into the end of the machine with the cover removed, I can't see a name plate. The only help that I can offer is that the motor is 220, 3PH. When I first got the machine, I had to fire up our rotary converter to get 3 PH to get the pump rolling, then it was possible to run on single phase. Once they became available cheap, we bought a little 1 to 3 converter box just for the pump, and now the machine will start and run on single. The people who provided the main speed control board won't even acknowledge that they had anything to do with it, even though I had a pretty good connection to their engineering department through an EE friend. I also put a 110 muffin fan in to suck the warm air out of the electronic area into the motor compartment. Seems that there was a smaller fan there that I replaced. Since I see in the parts book that a set of preground rings are used to determine the bearing preload on the chuck end bearing, your only concern that I see will be removing all the end play. Each bearing pair has it's own dedicated set of rings, so don't get the new ones mixed with the old.

    I assume that your machine has a metric gearing chart inside the end cover, ours has. If you ever get to that point, I reverse engineered the number of teeth on the chart--which are only given as SB part #'s-- and made gears. In reality, there are only two that I think ever got used, inspite of making a lot of foreign car parts, and other metric stuff, on the machine.

    Herb
    Last edited by Herb in Delco; 01-21-2016 at 08:31 PM. Reason: more info about preload

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  8. #26
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    Herb
    No metric chart on mine, only standard. The guy I bought the lathe from said that when he bought the rear spindle bearing set, that South bend or grizzly, or whomever handles SB parts actually had a full set of new change gears. Also, my lathe is a 71 model. The previous owner said that the pump motor was a 1/6 hp motor and was 110v, he said that everything functioned properly on single phase 240v. Could it be that there were different variations on these machines, or maybe later models were single phase? Maybe Ted could shed light on the subject.

  9. #27
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    This is a pic of the bearing that he destroyed and a pic of my new replacement... image.jpgimage.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  

  10. #28
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    A pic of the Bison Set-Tru chuck that came with my $300 lathe... Going to reassemble the apron hopefully this weekend.

    image.jpg

  11. #29
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    Some people could screw up a t**d

    Good luck with your re-assembly, If you were close by, I'd offer to help.

    Herb

  12. #30
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    Herb
    Believe me buddy. If you were close, I'd be begging you for help. Or at least a quick look in the gearbox on your machine. I don't think that it is going to be that bad. As with anything, the anticipation is the worst part. Also, I looked at my thread chart. It has lead in metric and feed in standard. Is yours this way also?

  13. #31
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    SMEMAN- Mine has a chart on the QC box with all inch threads and feeds. The metric chart is on inside of the top cover on the extreme left end. Top line of chart gives part number of various gears that you place on the input gear of QC. Various columns list thread pitches (and metric feeds) attained by placing the box levers and knob at given settings. fLarge idler gear moves in slot to keep backlash of gear train reasonable.

    Let us know how you make out.

    Herb

  14. #32
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    Anyone have a 150122 feed plate for a 1307? The only feed plate that is on my machine is the one behind the change gear cover. I need the one that goes below the micrometer stop...

  15. #33
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    Default Finally got the apron together!!

    image.jpgimage.jpg

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  17. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smeman View Post
    image.jpgimage.jpg
    the pictures you post are tiny, is there a way you could make them full size?


    dee
    ;-D

  18. #35
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    Sorry Dee. Posted with my phone. Not sure how to get them full size.

  19. #36
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    Gearbox almost complete. Had to order 2 missing bearings.
    Sorry for the small pics.
    image.jpgimage.jpg

  20. #37
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    Herb
    I tried to message you, but your inbox is full.

  21. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smeman View Post
    Gearbox almost complete. Had to order 2 missing bearings.
    Sorry for the small pics.
    image.jpgimage.jpg
    Wow, those gears are underwhelming! Treat them gently or they will look like they need to see the dentist!

  22. #39
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    Smeman,
    My friend recently bought that 1307 from the Philly area that has been discussed so much on PM (kicking off around 2500 RPM). The machine seems to be in decent shape and he is working on cleaning it up. It was built in 1970 although some handwritten notes in the electrical compartment are from 1969. The machine runs on 220V and the oil pump motor is 120V. I think I can get you the picture of the motor plate if you still need it. Does your saddle have turcite or rulon on it? This machine does and we think that's the reason why the ways are in pretty good condition since the plastic would wear before the flame hardened ways would. By the way, did you come across electrical diagrams for the lathe? We are looking for those...
    Last edited by Petras; 05-06-2016 at 12:42 PM.

  23. #40
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    Petras,
    I'm not sure on the saddle. I had to take a break for a while. As far as schematics, I don't have any. Thank goodness someone put wire labels on mine, so that I know where everything goes on the terminal block. I bet that if you PM Ted that he will be able to let you know if such info even exists, as he is an old South Bend employee. He also has a few 1307 parts. Herb is also a bundle of knowledge on these lathes. They are both great guys.


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