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Info please on sb13”

labradigger1

Plastic
Joined
Apr 2, 2013
Location
west virginia
Looking for some info on a south bend 13” I bought this evening
Cat. No. Is 667TKR
serial no. Is 8078
Looking for year, model no., spindle size and through hole size. I won’t be able to pick it up until Saturday.

Comes with a 3 jaw chuck, taper attachmentthread dail and a few tools. Currently 3 phase 1 hp motor but comes with a phase converter to run off single phase (which I have).
Hoping to update/replace my O series 13”.
Thanks for any help.
Lab
 

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Turn the compound parallel to the bed so handle is not sticking so far out for moving.
lathes are so easy to tip over try to get it home with no accidents.
Nice machine,,taper attachment is handy..
You likely will want a 4jaw down the road.
It can make its own collet draw bar..
A mild steel center to hold in your 3jaw / then doing fussy work between centers will/may make near zero work
 
Thats probably from the thirtys.I have 142442 and its early fortys. Simelar machine as described by Iwana.The bearings on that old single tumbler gearbox each have their own oilers. I use a homebrew drawbar with the 2A collets as mentioned earlier.Works for me.
 
Last 3 posts all within minutes show how they were turning out these machines during the war 142442 was shipped 7/16/43 thats about 60,000 machines in about two years.
 
I have a 13 made in 1942(?) Ser. No. 133106 that is the exact same green color. I've been told repeatedly that SB's were all gray. There is no gray under the green on my lathe.
You didn't happen to notice "J.A.N." stamped near the serial number did you? Or perhaps an anchor with U|S stamped on either side of the stem?

On moving - if you rig a strap around the web between the bedways closest to the headstock, take the tailstock and put it in the chip pan at the R/h side of the lathe, and run the saddle ALL the way to the right, she'll purt near balance. And absolutely no danger of bending the leadscrew.
 
I have a 13 made in 1942(?) Ser. No. 133106 that is the exact same green color. I've been told repeatedly that SB's were all gray. There is no gray under the green on my lathe.
You didn't happen to notice "J.A.N." stamped near the serial number did you? Or perhaps an anchor with U|S stamped on either side of the stem?

On moving - if you rig a strap around the web between the bedways closest to the headstock, take the tailstock and put it in the chip pan at the R/h side of the lathe, and run the saddle ALL the way to the right, she'll purt near balance. And absolutely no danger of bending the leadscrew.

Was told that it was previously owned by the US Navy
 
The anchor stamp (both of them) are pretty faint on my machine, one really faint, which is why I guess he tried again. The J.A.N. stands for "Joint Army Navy" from what I've been told.
 
Turn the compound parallel to the bed so handle is not sticking so far out for moving.
lathes are so easy to tip over try to get it home with no accidents.
Nice machine,,taper attachment is handy..
You likely will want a 4jaw down the road.
It can make its own collet draw bar..
A mild steel center to hold in your 3jaw / then doing fussy work between centers will/may make near zero work

Thanks for the reply, I find myself turning between center instead of a chuck more these days.
 
142442 has the anchor clearly stamped,no j.a.n stamp and a tag stating that it conforms to orders of the war production board on the bed .It was shipped directly to bethlehem steel at a shipyard in Massachusets.It has the same green paint with the grey under it. It is an 8113(tool room)machine.It has the series S cast iron bearings.It appears from shipyard records that it MAY have been on a heavy cruiser.Just a guess,they were also crankin out the ships.
 
Got her to her new permanent home today. Disassembled into major components and lifted into pickup with a cherry picker. Looks to be in surprisingly good shape. Only items I see it the tailstock finial is missing and the extreme right side side of the ta where it slides on the ways has been brazed, also missing one oil git cover. All gears are good and ways are excellent condition. Now to move my old O series aside and move the new to me girl into her own home and wire in the phase converter. Busy with other things now but she will get stripped Down, cleaned, rewicked and a good overall once over. Looking forward to using this girl, the qcgb is a definite upgrade from the change gears I’m used to, other upgrades from my O are larger spindle bore (1” vs 3/4”), qcgb, chip pan, taper attachment and the 7’ bed. I’ll get some pics in the next couple days hopefully.
No J.A.N. Or anchor stamp that I’ve seen. Nasty green paint was brushed on sometime in its past, looks like original paint may have been a canvas color and not the gray it probably should have been.
 
That’s the way I move things. I live in a town. No fork truck no front end loader. Just a die dolly, some regular Dolly’s, and hand trucks. Along with a fleet of wrenches. The 142442 lathe is in my basement,courtesy of outdoor stairs and 2X12 lumber. I had a rented two ton engine crane waiting at the bottom.
 
That’s the way I move things. I live in a town. No fork truck no front end loader. Just a die dolly, some regular Dolly’s, and hand trucks. Along with a fleet of wrenches. The 142442 lathe is in my basement,courtesy of outdoor stairs and 2X12 lumber. I had a rented two ton engine crane waiting at the bottom.

Ive seen too many horror stories and pictures of broken lathes while moving whole. Knock on wood, I’ve moved 3 now dissambled and no accidents. Working by myself it also made more sense.
 
Another advantage of dismantling a machine to move it is the ease of cleaning the individual parts.I like to clean a machine thoroughly before attempting to put it in service.Cleaning reveals things that will cause problems later.These things can be dealt with much more easily before assembling the machine.
I was given a pre 1880 10" lathe a number of years ago.It had copious paint and crud on it.I wire wheeled everything down to the cast iron.It was an education to say the least.The machine now resides at a local steam museum.
 
Short update, rearranged the garage for a new spot to place the lathe. Installed overhead lighting. Installed and painted some pegboard for behind the lathe. Installed a arco statophase static phase converter and wow was that a fiasco. Directions were piss poor, schematics and pictures did not match the product. I hooked everything up, flipped the drum switch, motor hummed but no power to the L3 from the statophase. Messed with it all afternoon then noticed a contact relay/solenoid looking thing in the statophase box. Flipped the drum switch and pushed in on the contactor and the lathe came to life! Not sure if the contactor is bad or perhaps the phase converter is sized incorrectly. Motor is a 1hp and the converter is for 1.5 hp. This converter came with the lathe purchase but was never used. Either way, I plan to install a push stick per se through the cover of the converter directly to the contactor. When I start the motor I’ll push the push stick and turn the drum switch. Contactor releases without pressure and the start phase of the motor quits humming.
May be a couple more days before next update, headed to PA tomorrow to buy 4 tool chests,
 








 
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