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    Default Lathe center lube?

    I've read about Dutch Boy White Lead but what is it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Age 53 View Post
    I've read about Dutch Boy White Lead but what is it?
    "Basic Lead Carbonate" IIRC the label correctly.

    Where I always ass-u-me-ed that 'basic' meant an alkaline pH, not simple-stupid.

    Out of consideration for those who think I have too much lead aboard arredy, I now use Cim-Cool "Center Saver".
    A pink goop with the consistency of moist Owl shit and easily as slickery.

    No idea what's in it, though I doubt any Owls were harmed.

    Bill

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    "Basic Lead Carbonate" IIRC the label correctly.

    Where I always ass-u-me-ed that 'basic' meant an alkaline pH, not simple-stupid.

    Out of consideration for those who think I have too much lead aboard arredy, I now use Cim-Cool "Center Saver".
    A pink goop with the consistency of moist Owl shit and easily as slickery.

    No idea what's in it, though I doubt any Owls were harmed.

    Bill
    Bill, Being I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, can you tell if a can of vintage Dutch Boy White Lead is in a powder or a paste form?

    Thanks,
    Al

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Age 53 View Post
    Bill, Being I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, can you tell if a can of vintage Dutch Boy White Lead is in a powder or a paste form?

    Thanks,
    Al
    It SHIPPED with a consistency like stiff grease. Stiffer than most paste wax of similar container size and shape, and a pure white-white in colour. We had to add a bit of oil and stir it up now and then. For use, it was about like peanut butter or VERY stiff cream. Think chilled PB - outta the 'fridge. Or ice-cream.

    It was a first-cousin of leaded white paints, and gets onto clothing, your tools, tool box, machinery handles - everything - much the same way. Not as bad as the silvery Molybdenum DiSulfides to clean-up, but it dried harder.

    If it is 'vintage' it is probably solid by now, would need chipped and broken up to get oil back into it. Sorta like Baker's chocolate, not hard like wood or stone. Running a powered drill into it over and over usually worked. Want to try not to go out the bottom of the tin.

    It isn't chase-you-catch-you-f***k-you toxic. But it ain't good for you, either.
    Had it on our hands, wanted shed of it before eating a sammich or smoking a Camel.

    But we got tired....

    FWIW, I would NOT mess with it. I went over to Moly a long time ago 'coz it just worked better, then simply tolerated the mess.

    Cimcool Center-Saver is much nicer, comes in tubes like toothpaste, end-opening can be trimmed to suit your needs, no 'dauber' required, hands don't have to mess with it, and it cleans up well anyway.

    Plus .. I now have live centres that run true instead of the junk my old employer had, so very seldom need ANY of it.


    Bill

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    It SHIPPED with a consistency like stiff grease. Stiffer than most paste wax of similar container size and shape, and a pure white-white in colour. We had to add a bit of oil and stir it up now and then. For use, it was about like peanut butter or VERY stiff cream. Think chilled PB - outta the 'fridge. Or ice-cream.

    It was a first-cousin of leaded white paints, and gets onto clothing, your tools, tool box, machinery handles - everything - much the same way. Not as bad as the silvery Molybdenum DiSulfides to clean-up, but it dried harder.

    If it is 'vintage' it is probably solid by now, would need chipped and broken up to get oil back into it. Sorta like Baker's chocolate, not hard like wood or stone. Running a powered drill into it over and over usually worked. Want to try not to go out the bottom of the tin.

    It isn't chase-you-catch-you-f***k-you toxic. But it ain't good for you, either.
    Had it on our hands, wanted shed of it before eating a sammich or smoking a Camel.

    But we got tired....

    FWIW, I would NOT mess with it. I went over to Moly a long time ago 'coz it just worked better, then simply tolerated the mess.

    Cimcool Center-Saver is much nicer, comes in tubes like toothpaste, end-opening can be trimmed to suit your needs, no 'dauber' required, hands don't have to mess with it, and it cleans up well anyway.

    Plus .. I now have live centres that run true instead of the junk my old employer had, so very seldom need ANY of it.


    Bill
    Thanks for the info, actually I'm not interested in using it. I'd like to collect a few things that would have been used in 1928 ( same year as my SB lathe ), been looking for just the right 1928 calender ( not a re-pop one ) as well as some other collectables. BW, I have a live center also.

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    I used it and it worked good but...

    I don’t know why it was considered a hazard. Nobody would ever drink the stuff because it doesn’t taste that good.

    My buddy’s father was shot with #6 (rabbit lead shot gun shot) when he was in his teens. Doctor picked the easy ones out and left many that later he could feel the bumps…Hi died at 92 not at all related to lead. But yes if it should get in you stomach acid then get into you body it is dangerous.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Nobody would ever drink the stuff because it doesn’t taste that good.
    I heard it taste like chicken , what part of Michigan are you in?

    Later,
    Al

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    My Grand Dad had some bird shot in his arm also, but he only lived to his late eighty's.
    Once lead is adsorbed into your body it never leaves but its dangers are highly over rated. My dad drove by his dad's old house and noticed that there was a tent over it and people in Hazmat suits all around it. He stopped and asked what was going on. One of the guys in a hazmat suit and respirator said we are stripping the old lead base paint off this house; it is very dangerous. My dad asked if he should be worried because he was the one that painted the house with lead base paint when he was 14. He was 86 or 87 at the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Age 53 View Post
    I heard it taste like chicken , what part of Michigan are you in?

    Later,
    Al
    Mount Clemens area.. frequent Lansing, Cheboygan and Blind River Ontario.

    I see you are from Chez Republic.. just kidding

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Age 53 View Post
    Thanks for the info, actually I'm not interested in using it. I'd like to collect a few things that would have been used in 1928 ( same year as my SB lathe ), been looking for just the right 1928 calender ( not a re-pop one ) as well as some other collectables. BW, I have a live center also.
    I hear yah. i've got a 1942 year-recap / memorabilia brochure for my 10EE.

    Better yet - the "Vargas Girl" for September, 1942, the very month she shipped.

    Don't really know if a 10EE has a sex, which flavour, enjoys it or not, nor what 17120's 'personal' preference in blanket-sharers was or remains, what with that highly agnostic D1-3 spindle ..

    ...but I know what *I* like....


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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    "Basic Lead Carbonate" IIRC the label correctly.

    Where I always ass-u-me-ed that 'basic' meant an alkaline pH, not simple-stupid.

    Out of consideration for those who think I have too much lead aboard arredy, I now use Cim-Cool "Center Saver".
    A pink goop with the consistency of moist Owl shit and easily as slickery.

    No idea what's in it, though I doubt any Owls were harmed.

    Bill
    Thanks Bill! We have tried several different lubricants on our grinders carbide dead center and they have all failed or required constant reapplication. CIMCOOL Center Saver seemed to resolve all issues. After we finished with the shaft and pulled it off the grinder the dead center still had a smooth full coat on it. We have only ran a couple shafts with it but I have high hopes.

    We have a high dollar live center that we use for all of our small to medium jobs. When running a larger item it just doesn't give us the runouts we require and a dead center does.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sundewzer View Post
    Thanks Bill! We have tried several different lubricants on our grinders carbide dead center and they have all failed or required constant reapplication. CIMCOOL Center Saver seemed to resolve all issues. After we finished with the shaft and pulled it off the grinder the dead center still had a smooth full coat on it. We have only ran a couple shafts with it but I have high hopes.

    We have a high dollar live center that we use for all of our small to medium jobs. When running a larger item it just doesn't give us the runouts we require and a dead center does.
    Good to hear that! I picked up the pointer from a more experienced hand right here on PM. I HAD been using a pre-1970 stash of the old formulation of 'Never Seize' moly and the last tin of it was 'bout gone.

    They made a 'Cim Tap' goop as well. Haven't tried that. Yet.

    Bill

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    This is the stuff, I have had this can for over 40 years never used the stuff
    If you want it make me an offer it's a full qt. can
    John



    img_0903.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Good to hear that! I picked up the pointer from a more experienced hand right here on PM. I HAD been using a pre-1970 stash of the old formulation of 'Never Seize' moly and the last tin of it was 'bout gone.

    They made a 'Cim Tap' goop as well. Haven't tried that. Yet.

    Bill
    We tried some oils, moly grease, ect but they just burned up. What we had been using was some high grade antiseize. It was working pretty good but you had to reapply every hour or so. That was until earlier this week when we had shaft that I think what possessed by a demon and and would run about 5 minutes before it smoked the end. Then we cleaned the end up, switch to Center Saver, and it finished flawlessly. Sure is nice having the right tool for the job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sundewzer View Post
    had been using was some high grade antiseize. It was working pretty good but you had to reapply every hour or so.
    Every hour or so ain't bad, actually. Early sixties, 'white lead' on a locomotive axle we pretty well had to touch-up after each pass. Even the MbS2 wasn't much more enduring. Centres lasted a lot longer, with it though, and a 5 MT centre is considered a tad less 'consumable' than a 2 MT.

    I'm looking forward to trying the Cimcool on the tiny Burke #4 mill. It has a DC in the overarm, not really enough 'meat' out there to easily change that to a bronze sleeve bearing.

    Bill


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