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Lathe Dogs?

Domodude17

Aluminum
Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Looking for a lathe dog so that I can turn a test bar between centers for aligning the tailstock when I get my SB 9A set up. I have the faceplate. Does anyone have any SB lathe dogs for sale, or can anyone recommend a halfway decent brand? Thanks!
 
I'll give you one for free. Tell (PM) me what size and where to send it, and pay USPS shipping. I have not used a lathe dog in 15+ years. so they are paperweights.
 
Interesting that turning between centers with a dog was the go-to method back when the O'Brien brothers published "How to Run a Lathe". No so much anymore. When it was done in my shop, a mild steel center with a shoulder was chucked,then turned true. Chuck jaws work just like the slots in a face-plate, only you don't have to remove the chuck first.
 
I'll give you one for free. Tell (PM) me what size and where to send it, and pay USPS shipping. I have not used a lathe dog in 15+ years. so they are paperweights.
Go buy a grinder, then they won't be paperweights anymore :)
 
I would have never done without lathe dogs...need to remove a close fitting part and check for fit in/on something, and then machine final features while maintaining concentricity? No problem between centers.
 
Looking for a lathe dog so that I can turn a test bar between centers for aligning the tailstock when I get my SB 9A set up. I have the faceplate. Does anyone have any SB lathe dogs for sale, or can anyone recommend a halfway decent brand? Thanks!

If in a hurry, one can MAKE one rather easily and quickly, though it won't look anything like the classical ones of old. Doesn't need to.

But you should not have to do that.

They are all over eBay. In "collections" as often as onesies.
 
B'lieve I'd rather try to use a grinder dog on a lathe (in fact, I DO..) than a lathe dog on a grinder, (no gots..). But wotever rocks yer boat...
Yeah, pigpen, this here's the duck, you wanna back off another five miles or so ? them hogs is startin' to close up my sinuses.
 
The idea of a chucker or a 4jaw true-in making grade because .0002 is possible is now the method..Back when, a .0002 wobble would be a junk bearinged shaft...put an expensive precision bearings set on a .0002 wobble shaft Not.

Being quick to go to centers is a good habit.. a decent lathe hand will know that IMHO.

Handy small parts dog is a hex nut with three threaded hole for screws (SHCS) to be the driver.
 
Handy small parts dog is a hex nut with three threaded hole for screws (SHCS) to be the driver.

My favorite quick and dirty is two near-identical bars. Lets use 3/4" square mild steel and 2" workpiece on a 10" swing lathe as an example.

The basic concept is to clamp the two bars side-by-side, drill a hole about 1/3 off one end. Hole needs to be half into each bar, and of lesser diameter than the work piece.

Now reverse the notched bars, aligning on that first drilled hole. Clamp, drill, optionally tap (but nuts will do, too..) for two bolts, one either side of that hole that can draw the bars together.

At least one more hole will be wanted at the other end to provide for bolt, shoulder bolt, or pin to engage a dog-driver plate slot ELSE rest against a chuck jaw.

The edges of the undersized hole will contact the workpiece in four places. Make the semi-circles a vee if you wish.

Pretty quick to make, average tools, has decent inherent balance so long as one started with matched bar size. Grip ain't much less than the typical single screw dog, either, and may be easer to avoid marring the work.

Rip big chips? Nooo.. not unless you want to put serious driving flats on the stock, first, then flip yer bars so their flat side, not the notch does the work.

"Not invented here". Learnt from one of the grown-ups, long time ago.

:)
 
Interesting that turning between centers with a dog was the go-to method back when the O'Brien brothers published "How to Run a Lathe". No so much anymore. When it was done in my shop, a mild steel center with a shoulder was chucked,then turned true. Chuck jaws work just like the slots in a face-plate, only you don't have to remove the chuck first.

A good chuck is a big investment for any lathe today. I'd guess the cost of adjustable chucks was an even larger fraction of the machine cost back when the Twins were still publishing HTRAL.
 
Looking for a lathe dog so that I can turn a test bar between centers for aligning the tailstock when I get my SB 9A set up. I have the faceplate. Does anyone have any SB lathe dogs for sale, or can anyone recommend a halfway decent brand? Thanks!

Well I'm many many miles away but I have two sets of Jones & Shipman (VG Quality) Drive Dogs which are sized at 1/2", 3/4" and 1".

One set are straight DG's to connect with the drive pin on the catch plate, the other set are angled to engage in the slot on a catch plate.

If you (or anyone else) are interested I'll get some shipping charges.

John:typing:
 
Good test, put a 8” length of round stock in a 4 jaw with only 1” sticking out. true it near dead nuts and turn the 1”..
Now put the turned 1” section in the 4 jaw with 7” sticking out and dead indicate the one inch part..
Now hand turn the chuck and see how the out section runs…

Just saying there is a reason for turning between centers with needing a bearinged shaft or anything close..
 








 
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