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  1. #1
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    Default Lever collet closer

    The alignment pin between the yoke and stop nut is sheared off. How does one lock the draw bar so the stop nut can be unscrewed and the yoke removed???

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR Lesan View Post
    The alignment pin between the yoke and stop nut is sheared off. How does one lock the draw bar so the stop nut can be unscrewed and the yoke removed???
    Probably not sheared off, probably either removed or deliberately cut short and ground flat. Put a new one in if you want to find out why its gone, like I did.

    Took it right out again - it's only really usefull for full-on production when you keep the same collet in at the same setting all the time.

    That pin won't help in undoing the end nut, anyway. I seem to recall I held the drawbar wrong way around, in a four jaw chuck maybe....

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    There's also a setscrew under there that needs to come out. You take out 11 and 12, and then you can access 9 through the resulting hole.

    Previous owner may have tried the armstrong method so the threads may be buggered around where 9 seats in the tube.

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    I'm the one that sheared the pin off a year ago and only just last week decided to disassemble closer and replace it. What purpose does/did it serve? It's been there for all the years I've had the closer and I forgot to loosen setscrew #9 before loosening adjusting collar #30 and broke off the pin.
    I have a parts diagram 924D but it's for a 1" collet capacity closer for the 10" thru 16-24" with #5 collets not the 5C. Could you print the back of Form 924E so I have the rest of the part thank you...

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    Still not clear on how you sheared the pin off. Brute force? Big pipe wrench?

    Anyway, here's the back page from Form 924E as requested:


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    Don't remember how I managed to shear the pin but it certainly wasn't with a pipe wrench. What is the purpose of the pin? Suspect I'll figure it out once I disassemble the closer to replace said pin but if Jim allows as the aforementioned pin is not necessary, maybe I'll just stone the remainder that projects out of the cone and forget it.
    At any rate, thank you for page 2

  7. #7
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    The pin allows one to lock the collet setting for repetitive manufacture work on the same size part. If the pin is in place you would need to use an allen wrench to make any adjustment to the collet snap-over.

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    Have now removed and disassembled closer and am faced with the task of drilling out stub of sheared pin left in the yoke cone. Have made a drill guide and now need advice on type of drill bit to use. I hesitate to use solid carbide as they shatter easily. I'm thinking to use a carbide tipped die drill made for hardened steel. The pin, whether original or not, is too hard for hs drill bits. Suggestions or input???


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