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More heavy 10 issues

PHDesigns

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 4, 2002
Location
Oklahoma, USA
Man, it is getting harder to stay encouraged with this project as I go deeper in to it. The ways are really worn, but at least evenly through the travel of the carriage. Just had the spindle repaired at a camshaft shop. Got the apron and change gear box off and pretty cleaned up. The gear box is worn out. Shafts are 'wallering' in the housing, idler gears are worn oversize. started taking the change gear box apart. Will look at remaking shafts, if possible, and or bushing the gears and housing where the shafts run. Fortunately the lead screw is in good shape, even though the half nuts are shot. (got those coming)
 
To me, the things you describe seem typical but, more than that, part of the fun. Remain encouraged.
 
That machine is considered very desirable. It can be moved easily,and has more capability than most small lathes. A worth while project for sure.
 
Agree, guys, and thanks. I have time, just not my normal cup of tea for machines. Prefer to just make chips. The reason I got the lathe was for the reasons you have stated. Had a 16x60 SB and got rid of it to get this smaller one. I hope to persevere, and have all I need at the shop I work at to do the project, so........ In the long run I know it will be worth it.
 
I bought one in somewhat similar condition, and took it apart before ever plugging it in. Its kinda fun though, you'll know its right when you finally do make some chips with it.
 
Continuing on here. Working on taking the gear box apart. Have removed the pin in the middle connecting two shafts. Thinking about drilling and tapping the end of the small one and making a little puller. All thoughts apreciated.
end shaft by phdesigns1, on Flickr
 
No reason you can't or shouldn't. It's got an awesome center drilled in it already :) Can't go wrong. The pins that locate the gap bridge in my one lathe are similarly drilled and tapped, and an upside-down C shaped block is used over the pin to jack the pin out with a cap screw.
 
I drove mine out using a piece of brass and a small hammer. I think it was actually a 1/8" pipe nipple, but anything softer than steel ought to do ok. I forget which way it goes, but those shafts only will remove in one direction. I have the book, but its currently with the gearbox sitting on the shelf at work.

I believe the cross-shaft where the tumblers ride comes out first. The one above it should be the shaft with the cone gears and the big/small stack on it. There is a taper pin on the wide gear in the cone stack, towards the middle. Once thats out, that shaft will come out. I want to say both shafts come out in the same direction, but I'm thinking it might drive towards the end opposite what is shown in the picture. Its something to do with the keyway, its not cut all the way through or something. I just did this Thursday, but blast if I can recall exactly how.



With some luck its just the bronze thats shot and your shafts are serviceable, even if you have to cut them slightly undersize at the end and custom make a bronze bushing for them to fit nicely.
 
This the time when you start to wear many hats. Good project for an apprentice.

Tom
My advantage with this is I have been a machinist for almost 40 years. One of my best learning experiences was working in a mom-and-pop job shop many years ago that we did anything (dang near) that came in the door. Gadget, I have the pin out that connects the two, but no where to tap the one shaft out, and I have tried to hold one section and turn, but nothing. Will drill and tap it and it should pull right out. If it just the shafts that are worn, one of the things we did a lot of at that one shop was repair worn shafts. Turn down and heat shrink a steel bushing on and turn back to size. If not, I'll make a set up on my Bridgeport to bore the housing a bit and do a bronze bushing there.
 
Its not a 2 piece shaft. The cone gears are pinned to the shaft, but the other set just spins on it. If the pin is out of that wide gear in the cone stack the shaft should just tap out, leaving the two stacks of gears basically in place. There is a ball bearing there in the middle of it all, in that piece of casting between the two stacks of gears. Possible a burr on the shaft has it wedged against that bearing.
 
Its not a 2 piece shaft. The cone gears are pinned to the shaft, but the other set just spins on it. If the pin is out of that wide gear in the cone stack the shaft should just tap out, leaving the two stacks of gears basically in place. There is a ball bearing there in the middle of it all, in that piece of casting between the two stacks of gears. Possible a burr on the shaft has it wedged against that bearing.

Ah, I got ya. It comes out tapping on the small end, then. I will work on that tomorrow, thanks!
 
Got it out, and found the pin that holds the tumbler shaft in and now have the whole gear box apart! Now it is decision time. Housing bores run .01-.015 over size, and shafts about .01 under in the wear areas.
 
Fun times. Sounds like some repair sleeve work might be in order. Not sure how tight these really need to be, but .020-.025 total slop sounds a bit much.
 
Well, got the gear box completely apart. Going over repairs in my mind. Looks like I will need to ream or bore out the housing for 2 or3 of the holes as they are over size and-or egged. The keyed gears and where they sit on the shafts are good. The free spinning ones are worn from .01-.02 over, and the shaft where they ride are about .01 under. Thinking about just skimming the shafts to true them up,and bore and bushing the gears to fit them. One thing I have enjoyed more than I thought about tearing this down is seeing how the oil system works, and being able to clean all of it out.
 
Finally got back on the Heavy 10 project. Made new shafts for the gear box. Still need to put the key ways in, but got the lathe work done.

three new shafts.jpgturning 2.jpgthreaded.jpg
 








 
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