My Fist Lathe - 13" Southbend
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  1. #1
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    Default My Fist Lathe - 13" Southbend

    Hi Everybody, I've just brought home my first lathe, a 13" x 5' Southbend under motor with quick change gearbox. This lathe is not an all original unit, the serial number indicates a 1941 year of manufacture, but it has a newer headstock with 5C closer and a newer motor. I've wanted a metal lathe for years, mostly because I just like to try to know how everything works and how to fix anything. I'm a self-taught mechanic and artist/maker. My degree in sculpture and photography, combined with my fascination with mechanical/electrical/technical things eventually lead me on a path from fine art reproduction color management, to industrial printer maintenance, to manufacturing automation systems, and digital production workflows and now I'm a sheep farmer! As a farmer I could finally justify owning a lathe as a tool, not just a toy

    img_20190718_191219-01.jpg
    Not in final position yet, and a bit grimy from the drive. It picked up more dust than I thought it would... I guess you'll have that with oily equipment.

    img_20190718_173237-01.jpg

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    It's got the taper attachment!

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    img_20190718_173302-01.jpg
    Yuck. Needs a good wipedown...

    I've had a 3D printer for several years and have gotten lots of use out of it. Though I have yet to complete it, I've been working on a small CNC router for a while now too, but this is my first real machine of any note.

    I've also got the steady rest, a 10"(?) Craftsman 4-jaw, faceplate, jacobs chuck, live and dead centers, collet closer, thread protector nut, and a few other bits and bobs. What I DON'T have is a tool post. The previous owner kept his Phase II QCTP and had lost the original lantern-style post. I bought an ACCUSIZE BXA/200 kit, but I still need to figure out how to machine the T-nut without a working lathe or mill... I haven't decided if I'm going to attack it with hand tools or take it to a local shop and get them to mill it for me. Suggestions?

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  3. #2
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    Nice lathe, ours are pretty much identical except yours is a tad older, probably in a bit better shape too.

    The T-nuts can be ordered on eBay if you're feeling lazy, I can't remember the sellers name but he's got around 1000 listings for the same T-nut with different thread sizes and pitches . Would definitely not go and bother your local shop to have something simple like that made. You might also be able to purchase one from McMaster-Carr if you know the dimensions, though you need to take out a loan for it.

    2.jpg

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    All right! It's home and in the shop! (For the rest of you, I'm the PO.)

    Funny you should post.... I'm in the process of making a new T-slot nut, mounting stud and nut to adapt the toolpost to the Takisawa and won't need the old ones. Stud dimensions are .630" diameter and the effective minimum length between the T-slot nut and flange nut is 3.63". The thread is, of course, metric.

    If that's something you can use, send a mailing address via PM or email me through control panel and I'll flat rate it to ya tomorrow.

    'Twas nice to meet you and your wife and I'm glad the lathe has found a good home.

    Neil

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    Here's an update: the Lathe is in its final position and has taken first chips!

    Here's a video demonstrating the VFD-Enhanced control pod, featuring 3D-printed bits...

    YouTube

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jawzx View Post
    Here's an update: the Lathe is in its final position and has taken first chips!

    Here's a video demonstrating the VFD-Enhanced control pod, featuring 3D-printed bits...

    YouTube

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
    What top speeds are you taking that spindle to? I’d be careful about spinning it to high. I’d be even more careful about running a threaded spindle in reverse unless you like seeing a chuck spinning at speeds unthread and drop onto your ways before scurrying across your shop floor and lodging itself deep in the 7th layer of hell! That aside, make sure to never swap to reverse while the chuck is still turning, it will most definitely make an attempt at your life. Stay safe and have fun!

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    Well, I've got standard gearing, and I've allowed the VFD to run up to 80hz, so theorhetically my max spindle RPM should still be under 1500... But noted re: the sudden reverse torque causing the chuck to unscrew and become homicidal I'll keep the accelerations reasonable, and avoid the higher RPMs unless I'm using the 5C colletts. The E-stop switch enables maximum DC braking, I figure maximum stop with possible chuck unthreading is more desireable than getting wrapped around the spindle.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk


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