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  1. #221
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    mounting/frame conversion
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_6109-1-.jpg   img_6114.jpg   img_6117.jpg  

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    Default Dialing in

    Alright roger up all my indicator all set up, and I seem to have forgotten how to post pics from my phone I had saved the original shimms and put those back I the spindle turns but not like itís on roller bearings( with it isnt&#128514 and I get zero movement on the indicator !? On first try, seems to good to be true? I feel like it should turn a little more free, I can turn it with one hand? I think Iím gonna try to add a shim, probably regret that!

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    .003 on back side .002 on chuck side,.....turns much better oil seams to be getting all into nicks and crannies

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    Well I was just got the chuck on an built me a chuck wrench messed around trying to dial in on a deep well socket ( closest thing I could find to a test bar) and it was about like sand papering a bobcats ass,....I could only get it within 5 thousandth s...and that felt like it took 30 mins! Remember Iím an oilfield guy, I think everything is suppose to happen right now!😂

  5. #225
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    Considering the shape its in, what its been thru and how old it is, I would say its not too bad. You got plenty of room and time to get it dialed in yet. Just my opinion, that the real test happens when you cut a bar in it, and see how straight it cuts etc.

    Good to see you back here, I was wondering how you were doing.

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    Yes good to see an update. I was messing around with my chuck since it's an old three jaw and got a little flack from someone here for using a shim on the jaws when I wanted to get some more precision but I tell ya. Super quick to shim the jaws when there's only three to work with. Maybe not oil field quick but pretty good for me. ;-)

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    back-plate-dial-check.jpg so i had a thought last night that i may not have cleaned that back plate as good as i should have before putting on the chuck, so this morning i pulled chuck off, got me some brake cleaner ( like some one already told me to do!) and got it all shinned up, while i had chuck off i put dial indicator on it and shows to be under 1 thousandths all the way around so i was pretty pumped up about that! i checked the jaws on the chuck and they feel pretty smooth, i had watched a youtube video on die grinding them in, i'm not set up for that at all. i recon i'll head back out and practice dialing in some more, dang ol Abom on YouTube sure makes it look easy!spindle-install.jpg also i broke down and ordered a single phase motor today, along with a drum switch and the adaptors for the motor frame, found some more gift cards to help cover the cost! all told if i don't count the gift cards ive spent im only in to the machine around 1200-1300$ including indicators?!

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  10. #228
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    Well closer inspection reveals a slight bit of daylight in between the chuck jaws and the test socket towards the front of the jaws when the socket is all the way at back of the chuck jaws , like the front are worn, is this pretty common? Seems like a fella could take them out of the chuck and surface grand them ? If a fella happen to have a surface grinder....

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmdriller41 View Post
    Well closer inspection reveals a slight bit of daylight in between the chuck jaws and the test socket towards the front of the jaws when the socket is all the way at back of the chuck jaws , like the front are worn, is this pretty common? Seems like a fella could take them out of the chuck and surface grand them ? If a fella happen to have a surface grinder....
    Probably the tracks the jaws ride in, and tracks of jaws have wear, as much or more than jaw clamping surface. Re grinding can make an improvement, but not surface grinder. Would need ID grinder, or a universal with ID capability.

    There's a nice vid on it from Suburban tool, ill try and link it later.

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    Thanks I just found it, very informative, I need to make friends with a machinest bad! Used up my one favor with bull wheel fiasco! I tried all day off and on never could get below 5 thousandths total😔

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmdriller41 View Post
    Thanks I just found it, very informative, I need to make friends with a machinest bad! Used up my one favor with bull wheel fiasco! I tried all day off and on never could get below 5 thousandths total��
    Glad you found it, for others reading:
    How to improve the accuracy of your 3 jaw chuck. - YouTube

    I wouldn't get too worried about .005" on a 3 jaw. In general, they are not super accurate. They are quick and convenient, just not accurate. They are fine for parting off work, or cleaning shafts with emery cloth, jobs you don't need too accurate.

    Set up on a 4 jaw is longer, but you can dial it inside of .001" every time, in reasonable time. As your budget allows, pick up a 4 jaw, even a cheaper Chinese one if need be. You'll rarely, if ever, use a 3 jaw again.

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  16. #232
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    Thats actually not too bad on the spending

    My 3-jaw has the same runout of about .005 -- BUT the other day I did a test bar and it only had .0004 of taper over 7 inches. So I'm not real worried about the 3-jaw, they are not used for their accuracy. They are used because they are quick and easy -- its normal for me to chop off the finished part and leave the raw stub in the chuck.

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    Motor and switch got here crazy fast as well as the adaptions, and believe it or not ....it all lined up!😂 I just knew something would be out of alignment! Big day tomorrow will mount the inter drive tomorrow ! Belt on the way from Baltimore, cousin gonna give me some help getting the switch all wires up! Should be some action happening in next few days!

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  20. #234
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    bet yer gettin antsy

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    Man you donít know the half! Ran into yet another set back though, believe itís gonna be minor, the belt tensioning handle taper pin hole is off from the shaft it goes on, it was cracked bad when I got it, and I had got a new one from Mr Ted a good while back and just now getting were I am ready to install it, he explained to me that those parts are drilled during installation so they are specific to each other. Iíll have to drill a new hole in the shaft, Iím planning to just go back with a stout role pin rather than a taper pin as Iím not to familiar with useing a taper reamer, nor do I have one...

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmdriller41 View Post
    Man you donít know the half! Ran into yet another set back though, believe itís gonna be minor, the belt tensioning handle taper pin hole is off from the shaft it goes on, it was cracked bad when I got it, and I had got a new one from Mr Ted a good while back and just now getting were I am ready to install it, he explained to me that those parts are drilled during installation so they are specific to each other. Iíll have to drill a new hole in the shaft, Iím planning to just go back with a stout role pin rather than a taper pin as Iím not to familiar with useing a taper reamer, nor do I have one...
    Might want to plan for how the handle is oriented and its travel, if you are not sure already. The handle should sit about 1 oclock with motor raised. and with motor lowered will be about 6 oclock. The handle swings toward quick change gear box side, not chip pan side.

    There are some adjusting screws with lock nuts on chip pan side for adjustment of that as well.

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    Hmm I hadnít thought about orientation....., Gonna have to cypher on that....we just got the switch and motor wired up and success! We have the motor turning and reversing, just need the canvas belt to make the madden spindle turn!

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    Any one happen to know the size and type of the thread for the nut that screws into back of tailstock, when I was getting the shaft out of it i buggered up the starting threads and need to chance them out to get the nut back started, I had forgot about that ...😔

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmdriller41 View Post
    Any one happen to know the size and type of the thread for the nut that screws into back of tailstock, when I was getting the shaft out of it i buggered up the starting threads and need to chance them out to get the nut back started, I had forgot about that ...��
    Try asking Ted (SBLatheman) I bet he knows since he's got a bunch of tail stock stuff for sale right now

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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Might want to plan for how the handle is oriented and its travel, if you are not sure already. The handle should sit about 1 oclock with motor raised. and with motor lowered will be about 6 oclock. The handle swings toward quick change gear box side, not chip pan side.

    There are some adjusting screws with lock nuts on chip pan side for adjustment of that as well.
    I think yours is a 16 too and I don't know how much you took apart but there is an adjustment screw and lock nut on the back of the pedestal too if yours is the same era as mine. The idea is that you loosen them up and set your belt tension and then snug that threaded stud in to limit the motor plate travel then lock the nut for repeatability when using the lever you are talking about.


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