Need someone with a Series O lathe 13" or larger to confirm some spindle dimensions.

Need someone with a Series O lathe 13" or larger to confirm some spindle dimensions.

I've got a 13 5/8" diameter faceplate that is threaded nominally 1 7/8" x 8". I followed up a lead on Oliver wood lathes, but have not found anyone with that thread, but several with 1 7/8" x 6, tho the book they have states 1 7/8 x 8. Last fellow said his Oliver spindle was 2 11/16" overall length, so much too long for the plate I have even if the threads were correct.

The 1 7/8" x 8" is undersized for a wartime 13" SB with that advertised spindle thread, it won't thread on more than most of a turn, and the register is too big for the SB spindle. Yes, it is 8 tpi. I checked.

Register is 1.903 diameter.
length of register is about .39".
length of threaded portion about 1.36.
Makes the whole faceplate about 1.75" thick.
1.725 minor diameter on the female threads

This thing is taking up valuable floorium.

These are pictures from my 1934 13" South bend with a 1 7/8-8 spindle. The tap you see in the pics is a brand new 6 flute Widell tap that will not thread into a NOS faceplate from South bend with out making the threads deeper. The faceplate spins on the spindle effortlessly right up to the shoulder. That measurement on the minor thread dia is 1.714. Pic dark.

Some more pics. Hope this helps.

OK, this is hopeful. I hate to ask, but can you measure the OD of the regisster - the unthreaded bit past the threads and in front of the spindle shoulder?
thanks for your help.
I've got two of these things, one 13 5/8" OD, another 10 3/8" OD which is thinner. Based on the lack of response I have had trying to find homes for these things, I thing I am going to modify the smaller one to fit my wartime 13".

Here it is. Hope this helps.

thanks, that shows 8 thou bigger than the recess in the plates, possibly it's caliper error. My war time 13 has a register diameter of 1.875. Same deal with a tap as you state, I have an H8 limit tap, it won't even start.

I can't imagine what else these things could fit. I'm calling it mystery solved. thanks again for your help.

The SBL plate for those machines is 10 3/4" OD so you will be close to what came with it. Unless you have carbide tooling the WW2 13 won't run slow enough to turn more than 11" diam steel anyway.
I might be able to reduce the OD of the big plate so John can use it. I have a 13" regal. Those plates are probably from a Hendey.

carbide? Plenty of it. I mainly wanted a large face plate to be able to offset parts farther than a 4 jaw or a small faceplate allows so I can bore holes. Part would be offset, requiring a counterbalance.
Turning down the large faceplate would leave a *very* thin rim. I considered doing this in the horizontal mill, but decided against it for that reason.
I have asked all over where this thread might be found, I have heard Oliver wood lathes, and of course SB. I've never heard Hendy, and people like Monarchist and John Oder have commented on these threads.
I think it is even more unlikely that I would have gotten ahold of two Hendy faceplates from different sources than two faceplates from Series O Southbends.

Previously: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...thread-faceplate-would-like-find-home-334529/

Just for info - 12" Hendey was 2" - 8

Rudd said:

carbide? Plenty of it. I mainly wanted a large face plate to be able to offset parts farther than a 4 jaw or a small faceplate allows so I can bore holes. Part would be offset, requiring a counterbalance.
Turning down the large faceplate would leave a *very* thin rim. I considered doing this in the horizontal mill, but decided against it for that reason.
I have asked all over where this thread might be found, I have heard Oliver wood lathes, and of course SB. I've never heard Hendy, and people like Monarchist and John Oder have commented on these threads.
I think it is even more unlikely that I would have gotten ahold of two Hendy faceplates from different sources than two faceplates from Series O Southbends.

Previously: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...thread-faceplate-would-like-find-home-334529/

Click to expand...

"Beetle tracking!" Gonna whack a cockroach with a .416 Barrett? Or what?

Time, and past the time, to open-up the threads of the one you can safely use.

I should have mentioned that neither of the two I did that to were done under power.

Both were hand-pulled so I didn't screw the pooch. I had not yet learned to always, aways, and "with out fail", no exceptions, thread AWAY from a shoulder or obstruction, never, never TOWARD it. Thread doesn't care which direction the tool was traversed. Why should I?

If a fifteen-year old kid can do that, any machinist worth his crust can do it BETTER and FASTER. Most have done, already, and more than once.

Page Two:

Do not MESS with the one that would be fragile. All else fails, draw an outline of Texas on the face of it in Sharpie as a reminder.

Leave it for some other Pilgrim desperate to put an over-age-in-grade conehead back into more flexible use. It is either a drop-on fit, or HE has to chase threads.

BFD.

The cast iron is very easy to cut threads in and big threads are easier to re-catch. I have a 12" face plate for my 13"Regal that I modified from a taper lock plate by making a threaded slug from a pump shaft coupling and dead fitting it to the plate using socket head cap screws to hold it in place.
As to the Hendey 1 7/8 8 spindle nose, someone had some 2H colletts for sale and the page from the manual showed that spindle,but not what Hendey. The collet set was not complete so I didn't peruse it any further. I got lucky and found some 2A collets for my 13"SBL.