I was kind of quoting from this old spec-sheet.
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PMtexasgunsmith - Thanks for the write up. I've got the turret for it too but it's missing the big handle, and the handle on top of the turret, the stops are all bent up, gears are filled with chips... it's going to be need some work. About that micrometer stop, does the saddle just run into the stop and the clutch slips or something? What about with the half nut? I'll be doing some reading but I've been pretty curious about the stop.
I haven't had a chance to play with it much at all, picked it up on Saturday; I need to get a motor on order for it, I don't think there's any way around that but I was excited to see it's only 2HP; everything gets cheaper that way.
SLK001 is correct, to leave it all engaged would crash the machine. The clutches won't slip. However I have found a trick that works for me:
In part I use this trick because I have a clutch knob, that spins to release clutch. You have a lever with black ball head. So I believe you just lift lever, so you'll need to run yours to see what works better for you. For me turning clutch knob would actually drive apron or cross feed more into the work when I was attempting to release. . .
So what I found is I leave clutch engaged, but I pull spring loaded handle when I have apron engaged. With that handle pulled (me holding it) when apron hits micrometer stop the machine wont crash. It will actually move the apron engage arm to neutral position using its own power.
The spring loaded handle I mean is directly above clutch handle. The center position in neutral. Upward drives saddle. Downward drives crossfeed.
In fact I almost never disengage clutch. I stop power to change direction. By leaving clutch engaged you can also lift spring loaded handle and let it fall into pin hole. works very smooth. As long as handle is pulled so that pin is out of hole, near the end of a cutting pass, it will never crash. I maintain feed speed right to the end of pass, and it pushes to neutral when it hits micrometer stop.
I use same tactic for crossfeed also.
Neutral position is for half nuts and threading. You cannot engage half nuts any other way, as there is a detent in apron to prevent it (unless someone modified).
In your latest pics, one box looks like it has another micrometer stop, 3 jaws to a chuck, and a half moon deal called a rocker. the rocker is for a latern type tool post.
In the 2nd box I see the lantern tool post.
In another pic you have a turret tail stock end. For you, I would guess this will be less desirable. You have a regular toolroom tail stock end which is fine, plus has some advantages imo. Also your turret tail stock end is manual feed I believe, which makes it less desirable. I think you'll find the regular toolroom tail stock is more pleasant for using centers and drill bits. For centers just crank handle in and lock it down.
I have a turret tailstock end which I like, but it is power feed. I like the turret also as I can keep a variety of things loaded and just rotate head to whichever I need. Should I use larger drill bits "manually", I need to hang on for dear life if they catch in work and start to drawl in the tail stock. Power feed is much better for drill bits, as gearing keeps tail stock from being drawn in. With using centers I need to kind of push my weight into tailstock and hold it as I lock tail stock down.
Another FYI, as Packardbill said: 5C collets dont fit directly into the taper of spindle. There's an adapter that pops into spindle taper, then the 5c's into adapter. In my two pics, laying in chip pan to far right is a drill chuck, next to that chuck the shiny silver piece is that adapter. I don't have thread protector in pic.
If your motor is 2 speed at 460v you can't change to low voltage. If its single speed 460v, you may be able to change connections in box on motor to do 230v. You'd have to pop the lid and count wires out of motor.