New to me 10K lathe
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  1. #1
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    Default New to me 10K lathe

    Hi,

    I just joined this forum. I have used a Taig lathe and just sold my 9x20 Jet lathe that I had for years.
    I purchased a 10k lathe that was a one owner, only driven on Sunday and always garaged!
    As far as I can determine, it is in pristine condition.
    Currently, I am modifying a quick change tool post to fit on the lathe. Sorry, but I have used one for years and that is what I am going with.

    The lathe is a late 80's lathe with a "Made in Korea" label. However, everything I have checked is imperial threads and wrench sizes and also including the lead screw, cross slide and top slide screws.

    Back lash is minimal and the previous owner was very careful about cleaning and oiling. Plus most accessories except a set of change gear (I do have the required gears installed for the gearbox). This lathe has the double gear box, I guess like a "A" model.

    Two items I have questions about.

    One. The dials on the cross slide and top slide are the big ones and have markings for "200." I get it, but I will need to 're-program' my brain when turning to size.

    Two. I have a horizontal drive unit. However, the handle for taking the tension off the belt is at the back of the drive unit. I need to reach all the way back to get to the lever. All the pictures that I have seen of 9 and 10k lathes show it just behind the head stock. Is this a change by the factory on the late models or did the previous owner make his own modification or can it be either way? Any help on this would be appreciated.

    I am very pleased with the lathe.

    Dan

  2. #2
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    pictures of course.....and welcome to the forum

  3. #3
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    Dan,
    I am confused by your statement concerning the location of the belt tension release lever being behind the drive unit. It doesn't make sense. The release handle is a casting that pivots on a cast tab on the right side of the drive assembly. Attached to this handle is also an adjustable length rod that extends forward to a drilled hole in the head stock casting. All of this is inline with the front spindle bearing. So, to operate, the user must reach over the front end of the head stock about a foot, not more.

    I own an identical 10k and have since 1981 when I bought it new from SB. These are very accurate and versatile, but there are several limitations. These machines are very light and not very stiff, so only light cuts are the order of the day. This machine does not like carbide, as the tool drag of the small tool relief angles cause carriage and tool deflection as well as chatter. Compound travel is also quite short at less than 3 inches as is also the TS quill travel. The through hole through the spindle is also small. The standard motor is a single phase 1/2 hp unit and when cutting a very fine finish in high gear will leave a very faint herringbone pattern in the work piece. This is normally never a problem, but it is caused by the single phase motor impulse pattern. A 3 phase motor solves that issue. (Think VFD)

    My machine has a Multi-fix A tool post fitted and it made a huge difference in stiffness, highly recommended. My machine is fully equipped with metric change gears and a taper attachment. I have 3 lathes and I use the 10k more than the other two because of the ease of use and its versatility. Good luck with yours.

  4. #4
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    Dan,
    I am confused by your statement concerning the location of the belt tension release lever being behind the drive unit. It doesn't make sense. The release handle is a casting that pivots on a cast tab on the right side of the drive assembly. Attached to this handle is also an adjustable length rod that extends forward to a drilled hole in the head stock casting. All of this is inline with the front spindle bearing. So, to operate, the user must reach over the front end of the head stock about a foot, not more.

    I own an identical 10k and have since 1981 when I bought it new from SB. These are very accurate and versatile, but there are several limitations. These machines are very light and not very stiff, so only light cuts are the order of the day. This machine does not like carbide, as the tool drag of the small tool relief angles cause carriage and tool deflection as well as chatter. Compound travel is also quite short at less than 3 inches as is also the TS quill travel. The through hole through the spindle is also small. The standard motor is a single phase 1/2 hp unit and when cutting a very fine finish in high gear will leave a very faint herringbone pattern in the work piece. This is normally never a problem, but it is caused by the single phase motor impulse pattern. A 3 phase motor solves that issue. (Think 3/4 hp VFD)

    My machine has a Multi-fix A tool post fitted and it made a huge difference in stiffness, highly recommended. My machine is fully equipped with metric change gears and a taper attachment. I have 3 lathes and I use the 10k more than the other two because of the ease of use and its versatility. Good luck with yours.

  5. #5
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    Hi,
    I'll try to do pictures via DropBox.

    Dropbox - Picture of belt tensioner1.jpg - Simplify your life

    Dropbox - Picture of belt tensioner2.jpg - Simplify your life

    Dropbox - 10K lathe.jpg - Simplify your life

    Here are some pictures (hopefully, they will open without a Dropbox account.)

    As far as rigidity is concerned, I used a 9x20 Jet for 8-10 years, a knock off of this size lathe, so I am aware of many of the limitations. The fit of the SB over the Jet is 'light years' better. even with hours of lapping on the Jet. I did add a VFD to my Jet. Very nice.

    If you can see my pictures, is the belt tension handle in the standard position?

    Dan



    Quote Originally Posted by steve-l View Post
    Dan,
    I am confused by your statement concerning the location of the belt tension release lever being behind the drive unit. It doesn't make sense. The release handle is a casting that pivots on a cast tab on the right side of the drive assembly. Attached to this handle is also an adjustable length rod that extends forward to a drilled hole in the head stock casting. All of this is inline with the front spindle bearing. So, to operate, the user must reach over the front end of the head stock about a foot, not more.

    I own an identical 10k and have since 1981 when I bought it new from SB. These are very accurate and versatile, but there are several limitations. These machines are very light and not very stiff, so only light cuts are the order of the day. This machine does not like carbide, as the tool drag of the small tool relief angles cause carriage and tool deflection as well as chatter. Compound travel is also quite short at less than 3 inches as is also the TS quill travel. The through hole through the spindle is also small. The standard motor is a single phase 1/2 hp unit and when cutting a very fine finish in high gear will leave a very faint herringbone pattern in the work piece. This is normally never a problem, but it is caused by the single phase motor impulse pattern. A 3 phase motor solves that issue. (Think 3/4 hp VFD)

    My machine has a Multi-fix A tool post fitted and it made a huge difference in stiffness, highly recommended. My machine is fully equipped with metric change gears and a taper attachment. I have 3 lathes and I use the 10k more than the other two because of the ease of use and its versatility. Good luck with yours.

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  7. #6
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    either today is gonna be one of those days where everything looks backwards, or your tensioner is....

    the "handle" part should be situated so that you push it to tension the belt.

    not that it matters but you seem to have the countershaft of an earlier model.

    it very well could just be me, don't have a Dropbox acct. so I get a 2second glimpse before the pic goes away and it asks me to sign up.

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    9cdd88bb-c509-48d0-a0f8-6c246eedf37a.jpg

    Looks like mine.

    EDIT: I have no idea how to flip the image when I upload it here from a phone.

  9. #8
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    Your tensioner is the same as mine with the exception of the plate with the two bearings are mounted on. This plate and rollers lift the belt cover when loosening the belt. That cover is a huge PIA. I removed mine the same day I set up my machine in 1981. There is no OSHA in Germany. Your machine looks pristine. I believe the paint is factory original. You have a real gem. I also swapped out the 5" 3 jaw chuck you have for a factory SB 6" and it also made a big difference in stiffness.

  10. #9
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    On my lathe, I pull the handle to tension the belt. Oh well, it works fine, so I won't mention it again. Now, on to finishing the new tool post.
    Dan


    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    either today is gonna be one of those days where everything looks backwards, or your tensioner is....

    the "handle" part should be situated so that you push it to tension the belt.

    not that it matters but you seem to have the countershaft of an earlier model.

    it very well could just be me, don't have a Dropbox acct. so I get a 2second glimpse before the pic goes away and it asks me to sign up.

  11. #10
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    Handle is in the same position as my '82 10k.
    lathe.jpg

  12. #11
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    then it IS one of those days....

  13. #12
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    mandmj'
    Thanks for that picture. It is obvious that my 10K is standard for an 80's model.
    I was just curious.
    Dan


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