New to me 14.5" in Good condition

My first post,anyway, yesterday my father and I picked up a South Bend 14.5" by 36". I deciphered the serial number and stamps as best as I could and I believe its a 1943 ish, and was used by the Navy. Its a 8183C model. The story we got is that it was in a machine shop and sat unused for many years until the shop closed and everything was auctioned off, there is so much dust in the quick change gears you cant see the teeth. This lathe is in pretty good shape, the chip tray is near perfect, the ways have a few nicks here and there, the head and tail stock appear to be in good shape, the carriage, apron and saddle are all smooth and move freely. However, it didn't come with any tooling and several things are missing, there is no tool post and worst of all the taper attachment is missing. The countershaft needs some work, the one bearing cap is missing and someone did and ghetto hack job with some epoxy.

The original motor is still there and I was told it worked. Im thinking of getting a VFD and using it as a phase converter from the 220 single phase here at the house to three phase. I think my first moves are going to be getting it set up, the countershaft fixed, getting it operational, then completely cleaning it and then paint, and then finally used! I want to get a 4 jaw chuck, a face plate, taper attachment and a steady rest for it, and most importantly a tool post, but i understand the parts for these are hard to come by but many are interchangeable with the 16"? And it takes a collet too?

This is my first real lathe besides a mini lathe and Im in the dark.

More/better pics definitely needed...

For a machine that's been sitting as long as you say this one has, I would recommend a complete tear-down and replacement of felts, etc., and to check condition of parts before getting it "operational". Odds are critical felts like those lubricating the spindle bearings are hardened and no longer function.

Don't spray it with WD but Pick off/out the chips and clean it with a damp oil rag with having a little solvent (mineral spirits a good one).
Don't wire brush the dials and numbers but fine file only the nicks just down to original surface,
Oil all the joints and add proper oil to places..and be sure it is getting in those places.
Don't travel things over rust.
Yes you might WD or peratrating oil the screws/bolts for a week before breaking them.
Looks like a nice lathe
Buck

in Steve Wells data base, I'd place it in 1942:
South Bend Lathe Serial Numbers

If you get a serial card, post it to the end of this thread:
Serial Numbers Wanted

Is the taper attachment the same as a 16"?

wideopenoutdoors said:

Is the taper attachment the same as a 16"?

Click to expand...

Should be. But are sure this had one ? Compound rest is the same for taper attachment as no taper attachment. An indicator is the cross feed screw.

Also, its nice to have, but not a tragedy if you don't. You could set up with normal compound rest.

Get us some more pics.

After examinng it more closely, I plan taking it part and verifying everything and replacing as necessary, i dont want to damage anything. I attached some pictures of the compound. As you can see there's no tool post, are these a standard size, or do i need to find one for this particular lathe?

This lathe was not set up with taper attachment. The crossfeed screw plus the chip guard with the brazing repairs indicate that. You could add one if you choose. But I would consider if you really need to cut tapers. This lathe can be pretty versatile as is.

You have a great many options for tool posts. At very low cost, the original latern type can be had off ebay for $50 or under.

Turret type tool posts also available, not too costly.

Or you could do the popular quick change tool posts which can run a little more. Might read this link and do a little research:
Quick change tool post for SB 16"?

Also just as an example scroll the listings:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...eDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=south+bend+lathe+14.5

For a tool post you want a few measurements. One being the slot size in compound, Tool post dont need to fit it perfect, but it needs to fit in and lock tight.

Also more important is tool height. You want the point of cutting tool to hit dead center of whatever is in chuck. looking from tail stock side, that means directly at 9 oclock. So you want a tool post that can put you in that vicinity, allowing a little adjustment for pitch or angle of cutting tool, to always be able to directly hit 9 oclock.

You're a million miles from there though. You need to start getting lathe useable first though.

Welcome to the 14.5" club. Some parts are interchangeable with the 16". The spindle is most likely 2 1/4" x 6 so you won't be finding many backplates to fit. I have had to make mine. The steady rest and follower rest are rare birds so they are costly. I found an unknown 16" steady for cheap and modified it to fit.

texasgunsmith said:

Should be. But are sure this had one?

Click to expand...

The model number indicates a tool room model, thus it should have a taper attachment.

Man yours looks a bit more "complete than mine did! I highly suggest getting the book "A guide to renovating the south bend Lathe" By ilion Industrial services, you can get it with your felt kit off amazon. and reading it Before you start taking it apart, like a child, i didn't wait till my copy came in to start taking mine apart and it cost me a lot of heart ache! just ask all these guys they had to walk me back of the edge. Watch out for those Taper pins!!!!

Need some encouragement
not sure if I did that right but check this thread out, these fine gentlemen have answered a lot of the same questions you are probably going to have for me already.

Thats a navy lathe,the anchor is just barely visible under the serial number.They custom ordered machines for each ship.I have 142442 it is a 13" also a toolroom lathe with no trace of a taper attachment.Not on the machine and not on the serial card. When you get the card for yours you will know for sure.

Thanks for the replies.

The very first thing i need to do is a repair. The bearing cap for the countershaft ( i believe its called) is missing, someone had epoxyed over it. see pic. I have had several ideas ranging from making a metal bearing cap and using a bronze bushing, to starting fresh and making a whole new motor and countershaft holder assembly from plate steel and using two pillow blocks to support the shaft. I have a piece of 1-1/8 plate steel cut from a previous project that already has a hole in it about the right size and has the profile of a bearing cap, just needs to be opened up- if i go that route. I have plenty of thick heavy plate steel laying around to start over and make a new assembly but am unsure if a pillow block is a good choice for this (speed shaft spins).
Any suggestions?

Once thats done ill need a VFD and use it as a phase converter, if anyone has recommendations on one. Then oil everywhere and replace all felts.

Will work on getting motor and countershaft assembly out this week so i can get a proper look at it.

Pretty sure you're going to find you are not missing a cap. That style was two eyes bored through, as a solid piece. The eyes acted as bearings. But due to location, were often overlooked for lubrication. The result is usualy those eyes wear out. At a guess, im thinking yours wore to the point it banged around and broke the eyelet there.

You'll want to remove motor base and pull assembly out for which ever repair or replacement you do.

Thats the lower cone pulley assembly in motor base.

Wideopen,

I see you just got an 8183-C. What is your serial number (located at the tailstock end of the ways).
I recently got an 8183-E. A 14 1/2-8. with about 60" between centers. My serial number is 175088 and my Serial Card has an order received date of 3/28/46, and a delivery date of 1/6/47.

Mine came with a 10" 3 jaw, a 12" 4 jaw, two face plates, numerous drive dogs, a steady rest, some boring bars, and a taper attachment. The motor is the right HP but not in it and not the one that came out of it. So I bought a new 2HP 1800 RPM motor from Harbor Freight and a pulley from Rainbow Precision Product. I got a new cross feed nut from Grizzly (NOS). I pulled the apron gearbox off to inspect it and am replacing the wicks, but the gears look fine. Mine was repainted a long time ago, and then never put back in service. I got it at an estate auction in Fallon Nevada where it had been owned by a Merchant Seaman who had buildings full of stuff and passed away. I'm going to make a belt for it from some 4" belting that I already have, and I've ordered a "hammer on" lacing kit from McMaster-Carr.

Maybe we can compare notes as we get these machines running. I'm concerned about lubing the spindle bearings before I run it and I have to adapt the motor into it, as well as get some V belts and a tool rest. I'd love to get a quick-change setup, we'll see.

John

Rogue Willie said:

Welcome to the 14.5" club. Some parts are interchangeable with the 16". The spindle is most likely 2 1/4" x 6 so you won't be finding many backplates to fit. I have had to make mine. The steady rest and follower rest are rare birds so they are costly. I found an unknown 16" steady for cheap and modified it to fit.

Click to expand...

How did you modify the two rests to fit the 14.5"?

wideopenoutdoors said:

How did you modify the two rests to fit the 14.5"?

Click to expand...

I only modified a steady rest. I machined a piece of 3/4" x 3 to match the ways to act as a base. Once I determined the height of the base I machined the base of the steady rest and drilled and tapped a series of holes to bolt it to the base.

Rogue Willie said:

The spindle is most likely 2 1/4" x 6 so you won't be finding many backplates to fit.

Click to expand...

I disagree.

You can find one right here.

Asking $50 plus shipping, which would be $14 medium flat-rate box.

I literally just logged in to post it for sale here before it goes up on ebay and up pops this thread.

The minor diameter of the threads is 2.15". The minor diameter of a 2-3/8 x 6 thread ranges from 2.1476" to 2.1585", with the midpoint being 2.153, so it's pretty certain that it is 2-3/8 x 6 tpi.

The backplate has a total thickness of 1-3/4" with the perimeter 0.919" thick.

The register is 4.719" diameter and about 0.100" thick.

The overall diameter is 6-1/8".

There are three holes on approximately a 5-1/8" circle.

The holes are tapped 8x1.25mm (yes, metric), but you can make your own holes if you can't use these.

I will offer it first to the original poster, and then offer it to the general public with the provision that long-term members get priority (yes, I understand that the OP is new, but he just got his lathe).

SteveM said:

I disagree.

You can find one right here.

Asking $50 plus shipping, which would be $14 medium flat-rate box.

I literally just logged in to post it for sale here before it goes up on ebay and up pops this thread.

The minor diameter of the threads is 2.15". The minor diameter of a 2-3/8 x 6 thread ranges from 2.1476" to 2.1585", with the midpoint being 2.153, so it's pretty certain that it is 2-3/8 x 6 tpi.

The backplate has a total thickness of 1-3/4" with the perimeter 0.919" thick.

The register is 4.719" diameter and about 0.100" thick.

The overall diameter is 6-1/8".

There are three holes on approximately a 5-1/8" circle.

The holes are tapped 8x1.25mm (yes, metric), but you can make your own holes if you can't use these.

I will offer it first to the original poster, and then offer it to the general public with the provision that long-term members get priority (yes, I understand that the OP is new, but he just got his lathe).

Click to expand...

The 14 1/2" has a 2 1/4" - 6 thread. You jumped in with your 2 3/8" -6 backplate. Take it to the for sale section.