New to me 1929 wide (heavy?) 9" long bed and overhead silent drive casting trade - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    - drilled and pressed in a ball oiler for the compound. Filed holes in the side of the oiler so some of the oil would dribble out the side and run down to the dovetail ways. The rest will oil the screw/ nut.​
    img_9910.jpg

  2. #22
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    Bit of a milestone today - finished the headstock.

    Got the back gear out, cleaned out the 2 ball oilers and the gears
    img_9926.jpg

    took the tumbler reverse apart, cleaned everything up and replaced the felts. Had to use a puller to get the stud gear off, so I could undo these two screws and remove the whole assembly.
    img_9924.jpg

    Got rid of paint from where paint should not be as well
    img_9925.jpg

    Pressed the spindle apart, put the spindle pulley in the spooge tank and gave everything a good clean. Very little scoring on the spindle and no obvious marks on the bearings, which is awesome. Super happy about that.
    img_9927.jpg

    Ain't she pretty?
    img_9929.jpg

  3. #23
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    Dissassembled the QCGB today, remind me not to do this again in a hurry - oh wait, I have to take it apart again Boy, what a hassle. I was tempted to leave this as is, but all the felts that I could see were solid blocks of nastiness and several other bits of the lathe had blocked oil holes and the like, so in I went.

    wasn't too hard to get apart, though I forgot to line up the splined type gear on the back shaft with the key, which caused an upset. Longitudinal pin in that gear wasn't too hard to get out either. No pin in the front shaft nut.

    Getting it back together though, oh boy. It was all going swimmingly until it came to getting the far left gear on the back shaft pressed on. Tried all kinds of approaches, including a brass drift (warning, these gears are surprisingly soft!). What finally worked was spacing the center sliding gear and the right hand gear apart, and then driving the shaft into the housing.

    Front (lower?) shaft was a royal pain, raised a burr on the thread so had to take everything apart again, but finally got it all together.

    There's a periodic binding that I think is being caused by the back left spline type gear as it no longer freely rotates on its shaft but binds once a revolution. Probably a burr or upset from pushing the key into it. I'll take it apart tomorrow again and see what's going on. At least this time will be quicker!

    Little wear on the gears from what I can see
    img_9936.jpg

    img_9938.jpg

    took some 320 grit wet'n'dry to the threading plate and very carefully sanded the raised part of the plate. Makes it a lot easier to read now.
    img_9937.jpg

  4. #24
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    Taking it apart and putting it back together the second time was much quicker and less dramatic The rotating spline type gear had an upset from the key being smacked into it and the shaft had a burr on the side of the groove that the gear pin goes into. Cleaned those up and any damage I'd caused wanging on the gears with a brass drift. Also cleaned up the keyways and bores of both of those gears, so just getting them on the shaft was easier. Now everything rotates smoothly in all gears with no binding whatsoever. Phew!

    Also cut a little oiling channel for the sliding pin on the range selector. There is an oil hole for it, but you'd have to be a contortionist to get to it. So I connected the pivot bore with the existing oil hole, so any oil that comes out of the pivot should flow down there.

    img_9939.jpg

  5. #25
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    what a fiddle fart this was - making a couple of standoffs for the gear cover. First one that I made out of piece of 12mm boring bar shank had a 8-32 tap broken off in it on the last step. Grr. 2nd one ended up too short and then when I made the 3rd and 4th, they didn't line up with the holes in the guard. Had to gently bend one to get it to fit. No wonder the screws that came with it were bent.
    img_9966.jpg

    should be easier to get on and off now though
    img_9965.jpg
    still need to make a suitable thumb screw for the bit that bolts to the gear box

    In the middle of getting p!ssed off with all of this I took a break to polish up the labels on the gear box. That made me feel better
    img_9964.jpg

  6. #26
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    got a nice FIMS #2 tool post off eBay, so cleaned and regreased it, then made a bolt and T-nut for it. I think it'll be a real nice, solid tool post to use. Now I have to make some holders for it...
    img_9969.jpg
    img_9968.jpg

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    got the banjo together, made an oiler tube for the gearbox input shaft and made a small spring out of a hacksaw blade for the ball detent, as suggested by Peterj.
    img_9974.jpg

    way wipers for the carriage next!

  8. #28
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    Finished up the remaining way wipers. Hope I don't have to do that again, what a pain. Made even worse by one of them spanging off my face shield and disappearing into my garage for a couple of hours!
    img_9989.jpg
    img_9990.jpg
    they aren't perfect, but they'll do and I sure as shinola don't want to do this again!

  9. #29
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    Are you selling this for parts or are you rebuilding it? If you are looking to sell parts, I would be interested in the apron.
    Joe gin

  10. #30
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    definitely rebuilding it to use Let me know if you need any dimensions or drawings of the apron parts, it isn't back on the lathe yet so it would be relatively trivial to take to pieces again.

  11. #31
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    alright, large side track into making my wife's Christmas present (The Nutcrusher Mk1) and an even larger side track into fixing my current lathe has slowed me waaaay down. I was going to make the tailstock extension first, but I've decided to put that on hold and work on getting the lathe up and running.

    However, in the meantime I figured I'd finish the tailstock extension nut so I could get my friend's 1/2-10LH acme tap back to him. That one piece was a pig to drill and tap, hopefully never again

    img_0130.jpg
    img_0131.jpg

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  13. #32
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    Nice work. Can you post picks of the bed. I am curious about how much ware it has.

  14. #33
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    thanks! As to bed wear, alot is the easy answer The ways have a definite lip and the matching carriage Vs were worn as well. I'll have to see if it's enough to need to shim the rack and leadscrew down a bit when it all goes back together. If I can get to it to take a picture I'll see if I can get a good photo of the way wear.

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  16. #34
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    took a pic - the bed is currently propped up against a shelf at the back of the garage
    img_0146.jpg
    img_9777.jpg

    couldn't get a good pic with light behind a parallel held against the V, but with feeler gauges the gap was between 0.005"(wouldn't really go in) and 0.003" slipped in easily, so my guess is 0.004" or thereabouts. Less than I expected to be honest.

  17. #35
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    finished the extended tailstock screw. Made it in two parts - the handle end and (cheating) 1/2-10LH acme threaded rod Overshot the end of the threaded rod by 1/2 thou, so it ended up being a light press fit into the handle end. Added some JB weld to make sure, but if that isn't enough I'll cross pin it.
    img_0147.jpg
    with the extended nut
    img_0148.jpg
    and compared to the old screw
    img_0149.jpg

  18. #36
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    roughed in the extension tube. Couldn't thread it as I'm having problems with the halfnuts jamming up on my current lathe. I'll finish this off when the SB is back together.
    img_0155.jpg

    bored a recess in the tailstock nut/ screw holder for a thrust bearing. The new screw has a little extra length for one at the other end, but that'll have to wait for the extension tube to be finished.
    img_0156.jpg
    img_0157.jpg

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  20. #37
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    pushing the limits of my little 4x6 bandsaw
    img_0158.jpg

    motor mount and countershaft in waiting. Got the pillow blocks ages ago from an estate sale for $1 and the plate was some piece of scientific equipment that my college scrapped.
    img_0159.jpg

    countershaft pulleys in waiting These will have to wait until the SB is running. I'll use an old treadmill pulley to get started.
    img_0160.jpg

  21. #38
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    are you going to make the countershaft pulleys and shaft as one single piece?

    secured to the countershaft frame with the bolt on bearing blocks?

    would save some steps in the process, as no drilling/boring operations would be required

  22. #39
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    that's a pretty neat idea, but I won't be going that route as I'd have to remove a considerable amount of material to make the shaft one piece with the pulleys.

    Current plan is to cut off a long piece of the smallest diameter round, drill it for centers and turn that down for ~2/3 of its length. Then bore out larger pieces and press/ pin them to the larger chunk. Drill and ream the whole lot for the 1/2" shaft, drill and tap for set screws to hold it to the shaft. Then put the whole thing on a 1/2" shaft drilled for centers, mount it between centers and turn the pulleys and groove them for a J10 poly V belt.

    I did that for a new poly-v countershaft and spindle pulley set for my current lathe which worked out really well, though the parts were smaller than these ones.
    img_8451.jpg
    img_8457.jpg

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  24. #40
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    trundling along - finished the countershaft and temporary pulley. The large diameter part of that hub was the last piece of the trailer axle roadside find that I used for the tailstock extension tube
    img_0162.jpg
    img_0163.jpg

    and finished the motor plate this morning using the bit cut off the bigger plate
    img_0164.jpg

    to finish that all up I'll need to take the countershaft back off and cut two slots for the screws sticking out of the motor plate. That'll allow me to adjust the tension of the motor>countershaft belt from the front.


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