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  1. #1
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    Default New (to me) 9 inch

    Just picked up SN 18951 NCR 9 here is Naples, FL. Owner lived about 2 hours from here. Lathe is in good shape but is missing a couple of the easily obtainable things. Need a Jacobs chuck for the tail stock. I want to replace the lantern tool post with a quick change. (I got used to the quick change posts using previous lathes.) I need a motor belt. I'll prolly be looking for a spare flat belt soon.

    I have pulled the cross feed apart and got backlash down to about .0015. I was able to tighten the lead screw as well.

    The lathe needs a good rebuilding. So far, the only place I can find the felts in a kit is EvilBay for about 35.00. That seems a little steep for a coupla hunks of felt. Are they available elsewhere?

    Also, Is there any way to add a quick change gearbox? and/or a power cross feed?

    apron.jpg

    gear-rack.jpg

    head-stock.jpg

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    Default One more picher

    whole-front.jpg

    Here is the front.

  3. #3
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    You can buy felt sheet and cut them yourself from McMaster Carr. $35 is a good price for the felt kit though. IIRC, it was around $42 for a 12”x12” sheet of wicking grade felt. Granted that’s a lot of extra, but how often do you intend to need to change your felts?

    But no as far as I know, there is no one else currently selling felt kits for South Bend lathes. Go ahead and buy the kit with the rebuild manual and oils.

    Edit: you may be able to add a QCGB, but you’re trying to take a Model B/C and turn it into an A. For the power cross feed alone you’d need a new Lead Screw, Apron, feed screw assembly. It’s not as easy as it just adding it in. You’d be better off to find a Model A instead, probably cheaper in the long run too.

    I can’t say for certain though I feel like it’s unlikely you’d be able to make a QCGB fit onto a machine not fitted for one, at least not without heavy modifications. I could be wrong though.
    Last edited by naru; 05-19-2019 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Can’t read

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Hoy View Post
    I have pulled the cross feed apart and got backlash down to about .0015. I was able to tighten the lead screw as well.

    Also, Is there any way to add a quick change gearbox? and/or a power cross feed?
    How did you reduce the backlash just by taking the cross feed assy apart?

    Did you get the gears that went with the lathe (for thread cutting)?

    And converting a C to an A or B is more work than it is worth. You should keep an eye out for someone selling a Model A.

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    There’s a reasonably priced 9A on eBay right now.

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    The work of converting a Model C to an A isn't really that bad if you have access to a milling machine but as SK001 said it's probably more work than it's worth but...
    I did convert mine and buying all the needed parts etc... runs into some real money so yes you are probably better off looking for a Model A rather than going through the "fun" of the conversion.... the attached pics are of mine before and after.my-lathe.jpg20181027_093346.jpg

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    Reduced the play in the cress feed screw by loosening the Collar set screw so the collar would slide. Pulling the cross feed screw out as far as it would go. Moving the collar to take up all of the slack. Tightening the collar set screw. Mean the slack in the cross feed was not caused by the screw and following, it was in the collar.

    Didn't get any extra gears with the lathe. Have not yet looked for them.

    Yes, I looked into the cost for conversion. Just the parts are more than a 9A. This is my fourth lathe. I have yet to cut my first thread. I am guessing that if I can get the gears for the 9C, I'll do that instead.

    Paint job on the lathe is about half finished.

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    I broke down and bought the kit on eBay. 35.00 and free shipping. So I don't feel so bad.

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    That is a pretty lathe

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    You all finally talked some sense into me regarding the quick change gear box mod. I'll prolly start looking for the right gears for the lead screw pretty soon. The ones I should have gotten with the lathe.

    Tnx,

    Barry

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    TNX
    I have a set of 11 gears 16,24,32,40,44,48,52,54,60,80,72/16 all are in excellent shape.
    Will sell the set shipped to your door. $135.00
    Chet
    p1010024-2-.jpg

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    ^^^ better grab those, you'll never beat that...and send Chet a basket of beer at Cristmas too.

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    WOO HOO. I'll take them. How many gears in an entire set? What threads can I cut with these gears?

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    That appears to be the whole set but there should be two 32t gears to cut 8tpi threads.

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    Sent you a PM about these gearses.

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    PM sent
    Chet

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    I purchased a felt piece that was just right in thickness off amazon for about $13. All you have to do is cut matching pads from old piece. The felt you want is F1 wicking felt. I replaced all my felts in my 1937 9" junior. While your replacing and if you are dismantling your lathe to the point you can put a seamless serpentine belt on, you will not regret it. What a diff it is with the serpentine...

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    I’d just like to ask... is there really a difference between grades of felt made for the same purpose?

    Also I went a little overboard when I swapped to a serpentine belt. I went with Gates J series belt for my 13. I think I used a J1672, which equates to a 16 micro V serpentine which is an inch and a half of belt. It rode the pulleys good and I never felt like the tension I had to put on it was unreasonable. But damn is EDPM hard stuff to glue properly.

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    I can't answer regarding felt for machine tools. But I did a little research on felt when used in reloading of black powder cartridges. Some purists like to use felt as a spacer in these round. They have to use genuine felt that is made up of wool, rather than synthetic fibers. This is because the synthetic fibers will decompose during the powder burn phase of the firing of the weapon and will leave a residue in the weapon which is very difficult to remove. I do not know how this connects with machine work. Would synthetic fibers break down after extended use in an environment that possibly includes hydrocarbon based lubricants and moderate heat?

    Just my two cents.

  23. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by naru View Post
    I’d just like to ask... is there really a difference between grades of felt made for the same purpose?
    Yes there is, if your question is: are the felt grades made for different purposes. Wicking Felts for South Bend lathes are Grade F1,
    This is a premium white felt that is used for it's Capillarity of the oil. as the SAE numbers increase, the capillarity rise in inches goes down. So an F1 rated at 4.0 inches capillarity rise with 575 SSU oil (standard) Viscosity would be a better choice for apron internal wicking felts than say an F5(3.0 inches) or an F10(2.5 inches). Wiping Felts do not require the capillarity. They need the absorption weight and volume number. As the SAE number increases the absorption ratio increases also. So an F5 or F10 is a better wiping felt than and F1. F10 has a 400% Absorption ratio vs 175% for F1. South bend used F5 I believe which has 250%.

    Hope this sheds a little light on Felt.

    I still have a few Apron/Gear box wicking felt strips left before I reorder for Ted and I. They are $10.00

    This is 1 strip of 256 x 1, 24 inches long, and 1 strip of 256 x 3, 24 inches. $3.00 first class shipping is included. USA only

    Where the print calls for a 256 x 2, you can use the 256 x 3.


    Steve

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