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New to me South Bend Lathe

Bigtalljv

Plastic
Joined
Apr 7, 2018
Hi,

First let me say I have no experience with lathes, I’ve never owned one and never used one, however, I just recently picked one up from a coworker. It’s a late ‘40s, serial number 174xxx. I guess they changed serial number format in early 1948. The story is it was my coworker’s wife’s grandfather’s (did you follow that?) surplused from his naval station posting in California. I’ve been cleaning it with super fine steel wool and WD40 and it’s looks really good under the grime and light rust. I’m familiar with the basic function but I also got three crates of accessories, many of which I have no idea what they were for. I’ll post some pictures.

So the big question is where to get a replacement drive belt. It’s looks like there a many many places but I didn’t know if there was a goto source?

Thanks
Jason

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For the fabric type belt like you see in this link:

SOUTH BEND,ATLAS,LOGAN DRIVE FLAT BELT 3/16" X 1.75" CUSTOM CUT,LATHE, Mill etc | eBay

I like to use Baltimore belting. Call them on the phone to place the order, and have your sizes on hand 3/16" thick, width, and length:
Baltimore Belting – 766 E 25th St, Baltimore, MD 21218 (410) 338-1230

Some other fellas here like a leather belt, they might chime in for that.

Know your adjustment range, and I would order toward the short side of adjustment to allow for a little belt stretch. If ordered too short though, need another belt, cutting it a 2nd time won't help. :D
 
Take it easy with the steel wool unless on a non machined surface non critical surface. I see you can upload pictures that is good. So now lets see a lot more of them. Pictures of the ID plate if there is one and every angle you can grab of the machine. Looks like you have a taper attachment and some other goodies! Nice.

There are a lot of discussions about belts in here. Some go for newer materials and others for leather. Depending on how you want to go there are different choices for suppliers but we need to see what the specs are of your awesome machine first.
 
Thanks guys, I’ll check them out. I think the idea of a glue in place belt sounds good to me. Seems like it should be quiet and smooth. Leather is cool and old school but I’m not going for totally authentic.

I’m going easy on cleaning it. I prefer the original used look over repainted stuff. Gotta keep the history. Only hiccup I’ve run into so far is my detergent based smart washer actually dissolves the paint! I cleaned one little part and noticed my gloves turning gray!

So is this a cool machine? Like I said I don’t know much about them. I’ll grab some more pictures tomorrow. Doesn’t look like we can do videos but it fired right up and it sounds nice and smooth. I need to get the right oil for it. Looks like there are 27 places to oil when you use it.

It’s a 13” throw with a 6’ bed. So I guess I do know something about it.

Jason
 
A 13 inch SBL is a nice size lathe to have, but we need more photos of what you got, tooling and such.
 
There's a member here that sells a rebuild manual & replacement felts . I wouldnt spin the spindle much until I can see what kind of shape teh existing felts are in .
animal
 
This silly idea of XXXing serial numbers come from the megabucks world of antique motorbikes where people misappropriate genuine numbers for title claim or to fake repop stuff to agree with the factory records......I dont think anyone is going to bother with an old SB.
 
This silly idea of XXXing serial numbers come from the megabucks world of antique motorbikes where people misappropriate genuine numbers for title claim or to fake repop stuff to agree with the factory records......I dont think anyone is going to bother with an old SB.

You are off base mate. The serial number can nail down what month and year the thing was made and then the old timers or people with knowledge can speak of the subtle changes that the factory made which may be important when sourcing parts.
 
Hi all,

Thanks for all the replies. I need to read up on the Globe attachment, seems to be lots of parts for that. I did the classic new guy move and came and asked questions and then got side tracked with other projects. So I ordered a belt from the Al Bino people, havenÂ’t put it in yet.

Next question is how to remove surface rust from tooling? I have a pile of drill, taps, and things I have not identified yet all with a coat of surface rust. Do I go with a chemical remover or glass bead in a bead blaster? I have both.

Tonight I pulled everything out of the crates and brushed off the spiderwebs and mouse chewings. I need to get a cabinet or some for it all, I don’t have space!!!

I’ll try to get some more pictures up.

I’m not sure what my plans are for it. I’d like to get it working but I dont think I’m going to do anything more than clean it, I don’t need another restoration and anyway it’s in nice enough shape that I like the original used look.

Jason
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Oh man looks like you got everything you need to have a new hobby right there. Maybe you're young and that "time vampire" is telling you things but that is a nice start to self sufficiency of fixing things that I see. Evaporust is your friend here...

Best Rust Remover | Remove Rust Quickly with Evapo-Rust(R)

good luck and hope we can help to get you functional. If you decide to punch out I'm sure there is a nice cash prize at the end too.
 
Don't bead blast, it'll look terrible. That could also happen with chemical cleaners.

Wire wheel some. Others I'd shoot with wd-40, and shoot some sandpaper 200-600 grit with wd-40 too, and use the wet sandpaper usually helps metal come up nice. I also like mineral spirits for cleaning.

Some of that stuff, pretty sure is not for that lathe. But if you get it lined up, people can tell you.
 
More pictures. Same stuff but I got a cart to store it all in. I appear to be set for drills….

Most of the weight and volume was the Globe milling attachment.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
second the evaporust, it's pretty magical. Then a wire wheel if you need to knock off the grey coating that evaporust gives you. Don't forget to oil straight after though, or it'll flash rust.
 
Looks like you have some parts for a taper attachment some . You might do a DL of a catalogue from Steve Well's site that matches the year of your lathe . That way you may be able to identify more of your parts & see if you have the rest of the taper attachment .
animal
 
Real nice, a lot of stuff. Love the drill bits. Having the drive plates is nice. Looks like most or all is there for using collets, plus the collets. The one exposed collet looks skinny for a 5c though, are they 5c collets ?

Most of those lantern type tool holders you probably won't use if you go with a qctp.

Real nice way to get started.
 
Why is a lot of the tooling rusted.? Was it stored outside.? Should clean up with some work like others have posted.
 








 
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