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Newb: What size tool post for my 13"

MyLilMule

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Location
Ohio, USA
I just picked up a 13" and will be tearing it apart soon.

During the restoration, I want to get some tooling (didn't come with much) so I started looking at tool posts.

What size would I want for my 13" AXA, BXA, What the HXA? ;)

I only have a 3 jaw and a rusty live center. Any other tools I should look for? What about minimum inspection tools (calipers, micrometers, etc.) would you recommend?
 
So I have been looking at the CDCO Machinery website and plan to order a tool post soon.

They also have a turning tool set with left, right and center tools, as well as a boring bar. All that makes sense.

What do I need to add a parting tool and a threading tool to the mix?
 
So I have been looking at the CDCO Machinery website and plan to order a tool post soon.

They also have a turning tool set with left, right and center tools, as well as a boring bar. All that makes sense.

What do I need to add a parting tool and a threading tool to the mix?

Gee, I don't know. A parting tool and a threading tool?
 
There are lots of people with some really good advice on this site, don’t be put off by others. I would get your tool post and a few basic tools and as you get to know the lathe and the kind of work you want to do, add stuff.
 
If you get a QCTP they usually come in sets. Get the wedge type. They will come with a parting tool holder and a heavy duty boring bar holder. They will have a regulay tool holder and ones with a vee in the bottom to hold boring bars also. Some also include a knurling tool. The threading tools can be held in a regular QCTP tool holder. The sky is the limit as far as tooling goes. CDCO is OK to deal with. They are on ebay also. I have recently bought 3 AXA 8 piece sets for lathes that I sold. Bostar is their brand and the are made in china. For a 13 as it has been said above a BXA will work fine. You will have to machine the compound nut to fit your compound. If someone offers you a lantern toolpost don't refuse. They do come in handy. You will eventually have more invested in tooling than you paid for the lathe. Chucks, collets, dead centers, live centers, drill chucks, etc. You get the picture.
 
If you get a QCTP they usually come in sets. Get the wedge type. They will come with a parting tool holder and a heavy duty boring bar holder. They will have a regulay tool holder and ones with a vee in the bottom to hold boring bars also. Some also include a knurling tool. The threading tools can be held in a regular QCTP tool holder. The sky is the limit as far as tooling goes. CDCO is OK to deal with. They are on ebay also. I have recently bought 3 AXA 8 piece sets for lathes that I sold. Bostar is their brand and the are made in china. For a 13 as it has been said above a BXA will work fine. You will have to machine the compound nut to fit your compound. If someone offers you a lantern toolpost don't refuse. They do come in handy. You will eventually have more invested in tooling than you paid for the lathe. Chucks, collets, dead centers, live centers, drill chucks, etc. You get the picture.

Much appreciated. I have a lantern tool holder, that came with the lathe. I've never used one or ground my own tools. I will eventually learn to do that. I've used QCTPs before on lathe at a local maker space.

Now that I understand this a little better, I see that CDCO has a BXA set currently on sale for $142. Includes 5 tool holders, including some of those that you mentioned. They also have a set of carbide tipped tools. But I don't see parting blades or threading tools. I'm sure I can find those somewhere else.

I pick things up quickly, but sometimes it takes a little push to get me going. :)
 
Aloris style qctp's have holders for parting blades, you buy the blade seperate. Also a threading tool holder that comes with a threading blade.

Aloris brand parting holder, BXA-7:
Aloris BXA-7

Aloris brand threading holder, BXA-8:
Alrois BXA-8

If you google the tool number, go to the Aloris site under what links pop up. You will see dimensions for all you search. You'll need to search for the BXA-8 parting blade size. Then shop the blade at shars, ebay etc.

The chinese knock offs fit but use a different numbering system for holders. If you watch ebay, you can find Made in America, Aloris, for decent prices. Aloris BXA prices aren't terrible.
 
CDCO has the parting blades also. Get their catalog.

They don't offer it anymore. Just what is on the website. I did a search for parting blade, and nothing came up. I'm guessing it's called something else that I haven't learned the name of yet.
 
So I have been looking at the CDCO Machinery website

Add these guys if going for cheap Chinese:

H&H Industrial Products | We Bring You Quality Industrial Tools

Both CDCO & H&H "know their vendors". Chinesium is what they do.

Shars is another. Just less likely to be as cheap.

US made may look as if premium priced. It isn't always.

Tends to fit better, last longer, have more consistent heat-treat, better grade of fasteners and threaded parts in general.

Five years and more out, US (or European) goods can prove to have been the least-expensive, not the most expensive.
 
They don't offer it anymore. Just what is on the website. I did a search for parting blade, and nothing came up. I'm guessing it's called something else that I haven't learned the name of yet.

BXA-7 dimensions show parting blades for it as 11/16" in height:
Universal Parting Blade Holder BXA-7

On the link, it shows an example of a parting blade that takes an insert. In most cases you won't use that type. You'll use a parting blade that you grind and sharpen cutting edge yourself.

Parting blades come in different thickness. The greater the thickness, the stronger it is, but wastes more material. Suggest maybe 1/8" or 3/16" thickness to begin with.

Shars P5S "P" Type 3/16" x 11/16" x 5" HSS Cut Off Parting BLADE NEW !} | eBay

Somma TBL1244V T15PM 3/16" HSS Parting Blade 11/16" Wide | eBay

P3 Type Cut Off Blade HSS M2 1/8 wide X 11/16 height X 5 length

Search results for: '11/16 cut-off blade'

Might have some luck using 11/16 cut off tool, or cut off blade in search.
 
Parting blades come in different thickness. The greater the thickness, the stronger it is, but wastes more material. Suggest maybe 1/8" or 3/16" thickness to begin with.
Two of my most effective, ever?

One left the factory some time prior to 1960 as a Nicholson "Black Diamond" file.

The other around the same time was once half of a broken Starrett power hacksaw blade.

The store-bought "Tee-top" and hollow-ground HSS need stagger-stepped or fish-mouthed front edges, larger, STIFFER lathes and far more power to do what THEY do.

"Legacy" style parting tool blades on uber-light lathes have a NASTY tendency to deflect downward, pull-in, stall and damage s**t. Hardinge wisely provided their light-but-good lathes with a swing-arm HS mounted cut-off system, also rear toolpost mountings as options. Got the job done faster, and with lower risk of damage, all around.

Modern Carbide-inserted ones can actually work BETTER than HSS/HCS, even on a light lathe that otherwise STRUGGLES to haul carbides at all.

Can't afford that? Cut a starting notch to control position. Use a hand hacksaw, spindle running slow.

Have a care to keep it moving, not seizing-up. Done soon enough.

Less stress, all around.
 
"Legacy" style parting tool blades on uber-light lathes have a NASTY tendency to deflect downward, pull-in, stall and damage s**t. Hardinge wisely provided their light-but-good lathes with a swing-arm HS mounted cut-off system, also rear toolpost mountings as options. Got the job done faster, and with lower risk of damage, all around.

Modern Carbide-inserted ones can actually work BETTER than HSS/HCS, even on a light lathe that otherwise STRUGGLES to haul carbides at all.

Can't afford that? Cut a starting notch to control position. Use a hand hacksaw, spindle running slow.

Have a care to keep it moving, not seizing-up. Done soon enough.

Less stress, all around.

I've done alright with hss, but I don't part solid round stock all the way through depending on diameter. I'll part about half way through then hack saw the rest of the way. Then face cut the end to clean it up. But a blade can bind, stick, or break if diameter is over an inch or so, and you're cutting all the way through.

Hollow round stock I can push right on through.

My original parting tool was a regular 5/8 or 3/4" hss lathe tool. The end was ground to about 1/8" and maybe 3/4 to an inch long at that thickness. :D Did pretty well, never broke it.
 
I've done alright with hss, but I don't part solid round stock all the way through depending on diameter. I'll part about half way through then hack saw the rest of the way. Then face cut the end to clean it up. But a blade can bind, stick, or break if diameter is over an inch or so, and you're cutting all the way through.

Hollow round stock I can push right on through.

My original parting tool was a regular 5/8 or 3/4" hss lathe tool. The end was ground to about 1/8" and maybe 3/4 to an inch long at that thickness. :D Did pretty well, never broke it.

I have a carbide insert parting tool. I broke so many inserts I don’t care to mention!
Took me awhile to figure the bugs out. I need to invest in a HSS blade.

OP I Don’t know if this was posted but here ya go, read on and everything will get foggy first then it’ll soon get clear :D
https://www.aloris.com/aloris_cat/31e970.pdf

It’s the 2017 catalog, but it still describes ALOT of the types of quick change tools.

QCTP can run carbide or HSS.
 








 
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