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Oiler Modifications?

Kevin T

Stainless
Joined
Jan 26, 2019
Anyone modify there oilers so they are easier to access? I am talking about the ones in the pedestal area. On my 16 I am thinking there is a way to extend the Gits oilers toward the front of the cabinet using a brass threaded long nipple but wanted to see what others may have done. I am too old to lay on the ground and contort to put oil in those things.
 
I saw these, for presumably, an injected resin cooling run. Long end is straight thread though. Hex end is NPT, anyone seen a part like this that is NPT at both ends?

s-l300.jpg
 
How about a picture of what you are referring to? What do they provide oil for?

I'm having a tough time trying to visualize the oilers you are talking about.
 
Even if you could, why would you want to buy them. This is EXACTLY the sort of thing that calls for a little creativity and some machine tools. What better way to justify your equipment? And if you don't have everything you need, you now have the excuse to buy it. Why spend $10 on parts when you can spend $100 to make them yourself?
 
How about a picture of what you are referring to? What do they provide oil for?

I'm having a tough time trying to visualize the oilers you are talking about.

The lower belt cone assembly has an oiler at each end that you access through the pedastal door. They are ridiculous to get to and probably why my motor was so caked with oil and dust.


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Even if you could, why would you want to buy them. This is EXACTLY the sort of thing that calls for a little creativity and some machine tools. What better way to justify your equipment? And if you don't have everything you need, you now have the excuse to buy it. Why spend $10 on parts when you can spend $100 to make them yourself?

This is exactly what I needed to hear!...unless there is a plug and play adapter I dont know about! ;-)
 
Maybe applicable....

9A countershaft...
I pulled the tops off the two gits oilers, and placed short runs of silicone tubing (great fit, secured/tightened with skinny zip ties) up to- believe it or not- a little aquarium air tube manifold above it. The tubing itself, about a foot long, acts as a reservoir when filled. By operating the tiny valve, I can "juice" the felts by opening them briefly, then close them to retain the rest of the oil.

Anyhooo...point being, it probably doesn't need to be hard-piped. Tubing and some sort of reservoir and valve to gravity feed will work.
 
The possible solution is to use push to connect fittings. Specifically the size used on 3D printers. They are also on CNC machines. 3D printers use a M6 And 1/8NPT Connected to a 4 mm Teflon tube. This will allow you to move your oil ports to any location. And can be fairly Inexpensive. Note: there is some pretty cheap push to connect fittings out there, Read the reviews and by Good fittings.

The drawback is that you have to tap these holes. Requires disassembly. Of course you probably have to disassemble it anyway.

Good luck, stay safe and have fun. Joe.
 








 
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