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Raising height of cabinet 10k SBL

G

gtr1999

Plastic
Joined
Aug 9, 2013
Location
CT
I just moved my shop and have my 10k on machine dollies until I wire it and either place it on the floor or concrete blocks. I would like to get about 4-5" of height with it since I am 6'3" and the machine is low. Anyone raise their machines, any issues with this idea?

Thanks in advance.
 
I think we had another 10k cabinet on concrete blocks but both the lathe and blocks are gone now. I don't think we bolted it on the blocks either.
 
How about make a couple forms with 2x4's, put a couple tapcons in the floor where you want it to lock it in place and pour some sacrete in the forms?
 
Mine is on 4" casters. Stem casters fit nicely in the tabs protruding from the sides of the cabinet.
 
That would work Pete but this will be in a small machine shop and I may need to move the machine easy in the future
 
I plan to raise my 16” SB. The best way I can think of is a riser “skirt” under the left underdrive base/leg and a riser block on the right side between the bottom of the chip pan and top of the lower leg.

Ideally, I’d make patterns and have them cast but there’s no good reason they couldn’t be weldments.
 
My 10K is up on about 4" riser blocks - they're made of oak, and then metal shims to get the machine close to level. Installed on a concrete garage floor which is far from perfect, and with anchor bolts through the risers into the concrete. Been this way for several years with no problems. I check the machine every so often for twist in the bed - next to no change over the years.
 
Mine sits on 3x3 wood runners the width of the cabinet/tabs, each runner sits on 4"x 3/8" flat metal an inch longer than the wood runners. The cabinet is bolted through the cabinet tabs and the wood/metal runners. The metal runners then have 1/2" leveling bolts w/feet. All together it gave me about 4 1/2" of rise.

I'm almost sure that description is as clear as mud. LOL
 
I'm using 1x2 rectangle steel tubing and 4 adjustable leveling feet to raise mine. Got it all at the local metal supplier for small $$.

Sounds more or less like what BobbyBailey is doing on his but with all steel vs wood. I've probably got 3" of lift but it could go higher if I needed it to. Makes a huge difference in usability for me though. I'm 5'10 but these machines seem to have been sized for high school kids. A 10 minute job would have my back absolutely screaming before raising it.
 
I am going to look at the concrete blocks Home Depot has, should be 8x 16 x 4" and that might be all I need. I like the idea of jack pads but will see how level it is first. Do you guys recommend one brand/type of jack pad/screw over others?
Thank you for you advice.
Gary
 
I found that at least for me, on my floor, the 10k didn't have enough weight at the tail end to use jacks.and it would walk from the slightest bump.
 
Think I'd rather put raising blocks under the lathe itself putting it higher above the chip tray. Much easier to clean out with more room to swing the brush or add a separate swarf tray. Repurposed an old record deck cover as a swarf tray on my 9" lathes after putting raising blocks under the feet. Worked a treat. The slope at the front of the top made it much easier to extract than full squared off one.

Seems to be a law of the Medes and Persians that lathe beds shall be put too close to the swarf tray.

Clive.
 
When I used the leveling screws/jacks, I would adjust them several times a day for a little over a week.
As iwananew10K said, the 10K is not heavy enough to tweek all at once. But, over the week or so using a Starrett level it settled down solid to where a test cut was only out .0009. With the leveling screws at the tailstock feet I was then able to get it right, .0000 to .0001 difference between cuts repeatable.
I got the feet from Travers, just the plain steel pads/bolts.
 
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