repairing broken corss feed handle on 1941 SB 13" lathe

anchorman · Sep 21, 2016

repairing broken cross feed handle on 1941 SB 13" lathe

Any tips on repair for this? I've been dealing with it being broken for years, but I need it fixed now. I can't find a new one for an affordable price if at all.

I was going to put it in the mill and try to drill out the stub of the broken off handle, but am not sure what the preferred method is for installing a new handle in there. Were the originals press fit, or brazed in place? doesn't seem like these were screwed together.

ewlsey · Sep 21, 2016

They are pressed in usually. You can fix it anyway you want. Drill it out and ream it and press in a new handle. Or braze in a new handle. Or cross drill it and taper pin it it. Or drill it and tap it for a set screw. Or drill it from the back side and screw it in.

Or buy a whole new handle from McMaster Carr.

TDegenhart · Sep 21, 2016

indicate it in on the mill and drill out most of it. The socket is tapered. Use a punch to get the rest of it out, then either make one like I did or buy one if you can.

Tom

anchorman · Sep 22, 2016

drilled a small hole in the back of the ball, and tapped the stub that was left of the handle out with a punch. Any idea what the taper should be? I'd make thing close to what they should be, but it is close to 5/16" diameter, and I'm thinking it might be easiest to ream out the hole to 5/16, and then put in new handle with heavy duty loctite, so it can easily be removed with a bit of heat if there are any problems with it.

If anyone can give me the length from the rear of the ball to the end of the handle, and the diameter of the handle at the widest part, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

TDegenhart · Sep 22, 2016

Are you trying to make it authentic or functional? If you want to make it authentic, then measure the taper and make on to fit. Make a template of one of the other handles and scale this one appropriately. Make a rough blank and hand file to the template. Other wise, get a modern handle from the likes of McMaster-Carr. The ones I used on the Monarch are two piece threaded into the handle.

Tom

anchorman · Sep 22, 2016

A little of both. I want functional and aesthetically pleasing. doesn't need to be perfect, but I like to start with as much knowledge as I can get. I'm pretty good at rough turning and filing strange curves and such like these, even without special form tools and attachments.

modern handle from mcmaster-carr cost a bit more than I want to spend. it's still going to be a $500 lathe when I'm done, regardless, and I have more time than money or sense. I could just do a straight piece of rod with the end rounded slighly, but for a little more effort, I can do better. basic dimensions would be nice, since I have no idea what this started with. I only have the nub that I knocked out with the punch, I've never had the broken off piece.

kitno455 · Sep 23, 2016

It's just a handle. Scale it up from your tailstock or compound handles, and make it fit.

allan

jim rozen · Sep 23, 2016

I have always found these to be straight shank handles, not tapered. They're simply pressed in.

A hole in the back of the ball will work and is tough to see once the thing's reassembled. Another
way is to tap it for a 10-32 screw and slap hammer it out.

If you have the broken off part, you might drill out the backside and press in a pin.

Spyderedge · Sep 23, 2016

If you're going to make one, make it rotating with some flared cup needle bearings

kitno455 · Sep 24, 2016

I actually dislike rotating bat handles- I find that they reduce the feel too much. I get a better sense of what is happening at the cutting edge with a solid handle.

allan

mach2 · Sep 24, 2016

kitno455 said:
I actually dislike rotating bat handles- I find that they reduce the feel too much. I get a better sense of what is happening at the cutting edge with a solid handle.

allan

True if the fit is sloppy. I made some for a mill with a close fit and was an improvement over non rotating handles.

mach2 · Sep 24, 2016

anchorman said:
A little of both. I'm pretty good at rough turning and filing strange curves and such like these, even without special form tools and attachments.

Ok for one offs. For a matching set I used a taper attachment with a curved guide mounted on the bar. A pin follower was mounted on the backside of the cross slide. All was bungee corded to keep the pin follower against the form. Power feed was used. Worked good. Sorry no photos.

gadget73 · Sep 24, 2016

So basically you were using the taper attachment as a tracing attachment?

thomasutley · Sep 24, 2016

Tom Lipton (oxtoolco) does a different kind of lathe tracing attachment here:

Wilton Baby Bullet 8 - YouTube

iwananew10K · Sep 25, 2016

poor mans "tracing attachment"-

draw profile to scale on stiff paper,tape it to bed behind carriage, mag base on cross slide with scribe or pointer of some sort, turn major OD, set scribe/pointer to paper tracing and go to it...power feed and work the crank by hand...

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