SB Heavy ten "book"

well the spindle oil is not going down at all. somehow I got it in my head that it should have new felt, may be "clogged"? So I ordered a hunk of wool felt from bluechip machine.

couple questions tho... is it hard to change the felt, and is it risky to do so on the spindle (does it have to come off and does it go back together easily?)

I've seen mention of the 'book' in felt threads, one person said the book showed him where some felt was supposed to be but it was missing,

is this book or part of it or the key felt replacing info, available on pdf?

any felt advice will be warmly 'felt'! ok bad joke!

thanks

Chip -
Search is your friend. Links in the sticky at top of forum, but start by looking at this to give you an idea. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/new-10l-headstock-oilers-192623/

Book is the one found on the bay 'A Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe' - he is also a member on here but his name escapes me at the moment. You can get the proper felt from Ted - SBLatheman on here. Book is good, but remember like most products that were built for a long time many EC (Engineering Changes - what the part number 'rolls' were based on at the plant I spent my working years at) would occur. Book will only have a snapshot, you have to use some common sense and interpret what you have versus the 'book'. Just today I was doing a tear down on the apron of my late 1944 build Heavy 10 - and the book sequence would not work, nor do the parts match exactly. No big deal - just don't become 'primitive Pete' and start trying to force things apart. Be sure to know proper procedure on the bearings / retainers as you can screw things up royally if not done properly.

Study the threads on here - been covered many times.

Dale

New felt capillary oilers are cheap....same guy that sells the "book" sells those too...Steve Brooks.

No one (hopefully) will ever "PDF" his books...the man put a lot of research and energy into producing them...his is the kind of business we should support.

That said plenty of info on replacing them, and yours is the easy one since you have the cast iron bearings.

just because the oil level is not dropping doesn't mean there is a problem, really if it's working properly it Won't drop much....if it's turning well and not heating that's a good sign....no harm in checking, but do your homework.

ok thanks. Just to clarify, I did not mean for anyone to pdf a current publication. I didnt know if this was some out of print 1940's thing being mentioned.

iwananew10K said:

That said plenty of info on replacing them, and yours is the easy one since you have the cast iron bearings.

Click to expand...

I just caught this mention of having cast iron bearings. what does that mean? Mine is a 1947 10R

You have a recirculating capillary oiler system, not a total loss system. See the video clip below for what the oil is doing during operation.

Link: Tom Utley on Instagram: “Look closely and you can see the spindle #lube system #pump Velocite No. 1 oil through the #bearing interface before it falls back to the…”

FlyinChip said:

I just caught this mention of having cast iron bearings. what does that mean? Mine is a 1947 10R

Click to expand...

sorry, another "moment" for me...I get posters confused sometimes.

Check this thread out...I think from looking at your original pics you have bronze bearing with expanders (some do not have the bronze sleeves)...good pics and info....MAKE SURE of the correct procedure before messing with the spindle, you will damage the bearing if you don't do it right.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/new-10l-headstock-oilers-192623/