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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    No "lard oil" IN my shop. It's "food". Non-toxic, even. By itself, anyway.
    Critters can LIVE on it. Humans at the head of the list. Rodents as well.
    I DO have it for cooking. In the 'fridge.
    ......
    The less yah store, the easier to get out from under when that time cometh.
    True, dat. I keep and encourage cats and spiders, in order to discourage other critters.

    Been all month cleaning out the place and wondering who the hell I'm gonna leave it all to. Will have to write an owner's manual for the entire thing. A lifetime of accumulation and iron disease.

  2. #22
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    A very good reason why beginners should be on a hobby machine forum.......because they have done all this ,and will tell you that a set of carbide toolin from one of the Chinese sites like Banggood will get you where you want to be for very small dollars .....pro carbide charges squillions for precision to four places in holders and inserts which is meaningless on a SB....Beginners say the chinee inserts meant for ally are good on steel in a low power machine.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    A very good reason why beginners should be on a hobby machine forum.......because they have done all this ,and will tell you that a set of carbide toolin from one of the Chinese sites like Banggood will get you where you want to be for very small dollars .....pro carbide charges squillions for precision to four places in holders and inserts which is meaningless on a SB....Beginners say the chinee inserts meant for ally are good on steel in a low power machine.
    Yeah, but its almost impossible to get anything from Banggood these days. At least in the USA, your order will be held up for months.

    Maybe I'm just old school, but I think learning how to grind a lathe bit is something everyone should know. I'm glad I stocked up on HSS before the virus. At work they don't have to worry about it, my old employer buys from large national suppliers -- and they actually manufacture the raw carbide, so no lack there. But it certainly isn't at a hobbyist price!

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    Quote Originally Posted by pavt View Post
    Yeah, but its almost impossible to get anything from Banggood these days. At least in the USA, your order will be held up for months.

    Maybe I'm just old school, but I think learning how to grind a lathe bit is something everyone should know. I'm glad I stocked up on HSS before the virus. At work they don't have to worry about it, my old employer buys from large national suppliers -- and they actually manufacture the raw carbide, so no lack there. But it certainly isn't at a hobbyist price!
    Grind yer' own's greatest value is in understandng how the metals yah work ACT at the tool-tip, and what stiffness, power, smoothness of it all - or lack-therof, actually mean to finish and throughput.

    So yah.. even if store-grind inserted is the order of the day - as it NEEDS to be, most any significant unit-count revenue operation?

    It is still "of value" to grok the "whyso?" FIRST.

    I'd have to got to three shifts @ 8 hrs each to use-up the HSS/Cobalt/Tatung-G ++ I have accumulated in a touch over 60 years - fifty of 'em near-as-dammit TOTALLY away from the trade.

    Not happening.

    Neither is investing in the "learning curve" to sort out which of 30,000 or so "inserts" would make best - or ANY - economic sense at this late stage in life.

    I just don't WORK materials yah cannot cut well-enough with a Rex 95 or Tatung-G.

    If I was back running a factory? Latest and best of CNC, Carbides if not "exotics" - best folks to run it as could be found, USA, Canada, or Europe - whatever it took to BEAT my numbers and f**kin cremate the competition before they even knew my Body-Corporate had opened a bank account or the factory lights had come on.

    "Perfect?" Never. Ahead of whomever was in SECOND place? It's what TF they PAID me for!

    Retired is gooooood .... DAMNED goood! ...compared to what "prevailing" at THAT s**ty game takes outta yah.

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    When I have a problem with "smoke" like that, I will slow down the cutting speed and the smoke goes away.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dobermann View Post
    When I have a problem with "smoke" like that, I will slow down the cutting speed and the smoke goes away.
    I just shut down the lathe and go light up a Pall Mall ... to clear my lungs?

    Wellll..

    "So they figure things are "normal"?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dobermann View Post
    When I have a problem with "smoke" like that, I will slow down the cutting speed and the smoke goes away.
    Yeah I'll pay attention to the start next time. I did vary the speed but maybe not enough and the part was already heat soaked?
    I just used that same lube on a parting operation and it worked great on back gear slow!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post
    Yeah I'll pay attention to the start next time. I did vary the speed but maybe not enough and the part was already heat soaked?
    I just used that same lube on a parting operation and it worked great on back gear slow!
    I was in a hurry to hog off all the extra steel. If you have the time to slow things down, go for it.

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  13. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    A very good reason why beginners should be on a hobby machine forum.......because they have done all this ,and will tell you that a set of carbide toolin from one of the Chinese sites like Banggood will get you where you want to be for very small dollars .....pro carbide charges squillions for precision to four places in holders and inserts which is meaningless on a SB....Beginners say the chinee inserts meant for ally are good on steel in a low power machine.
    Are you saying I should be getting information from a place that would first recommend buying Chinese crap? I don't want to get political, especially since I see you are in Australia and both our countries have huge issues to sort out with China, but that's not what I am about Sir. I do have a fukton of questions but hopefully the way I present them is value added and entertaining to you guys who know machining like the back of your hand. A man is the sum of his skills which places me square in the middle of the continuum; right next to every other "useful man".

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    johnk isnt wrong.
    hes just underscoring a basic truth.
    youll never push an old SB hard enough to really make top grade INDUSTRIAL geared cutting tooling worth the expense.
    but that doesnt mean buy the cheapest you can get either.
    for carbide insert tools and inserts excellent stuff can be had from-
    latheinserts.com
    all the guess work already done.

    the guys sayin HSS is best also arent wrong.

    its just up to you and your budget to decide whats best for you.

    i had to go to insert tools, my condition dictated it.
    as much as i love hand sharpened steel, i just cant do it anymore.
    the carbides kept me going.

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  17. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    i had to go to insert tools, my condition dictated it.
    as much as i love hand sharpened steel, i just cant do it anymore.
    the carbides kept me going.
    Speakin' of which... wasn't long ago, it didn't seem you'd still even be "with us"..

    You startin' to gradually beat this bug back? Or still jest holdin' it to a draw?

  18. #32
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    slowed it down.
    i took the pickled option.
    i smoke like train, cuss like a sailor.
    and got a girlfriend.
    IOW- i became a dirty old man.

  19. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwananew10K View Post
    slowed it down.
    i took the pickled option.
    i smoke like train, cuss like a sailor.
    and got a girlfriend.
    IOW- i became a dirty old man.
    Damned short trip, yer medical condition was already linked with Russ T. Balls, wasn't it?

    Mought be "the real reason" I bought meself that ten-millionths Hamilton DI here?

    Gots to stay alert for changes...

  20. #34
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    It could always be worse. The other day I had a case of Swollen Machinist Syndrome and had to go lay down for a while.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pavt View Post
    It could always be worse. The other day I had a case of Swollen Machinist Syndrome and had to go lay down for a while.
    Shark liver oil.. sold as "Preparation H" suppositories is good for that.

    RTFM!

    Druggist sold a box to some guy as had been so-advised, found him back for two more boxes, next day.

    Asked. "Good grief! WTF are you doing with these things? Eating them on your salad?"

    Guy figures him for a wise-ass, sez:

    "Well just WTF did you THINK I was doin' with 'em?"

    "Sure as Hell wouldn't be shoving them up my ASS to play some sort of gay comedian, would I?"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dobermann View Post
    When I have a problem with "smoke" like that, I will slow down the cutting speed and the smoke goes away.
    When I only see smoke I speed it up until it sparks.

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  24. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrewblob View Post
    When I only see smoke I speed it up until it sparks.
    Alright...alright...I can see the silliness of my post but I'm not used to having a machine that has enough power to generate smoke! I was generally curious if there was anything useful that you guys consider by looking at the smoke. I wasn't expecting, "Smoke Bad, Slow Down!" LOL

    All in good fun though and I am learning a ton along the way. Made my first rotating assembly out of.... steel!

    p1050602.jpg

    p1050604.jpg

    p1050605.jpg

    p1050607.jpg

    Still need to figure out how I want to attach the wood wheel to the big end and I want to install a pin, maybe a taper pin in the skinny end that slides into the collet draw tube. All good stuff!

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  26. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post
    All in good fun though and I am learning a ton along the way. Made my first rotating assembly out of.... steel!

    p1050602.jpg
    Here's a "mental goal" for you with regard to tool-tip hang-out, then:

    "The Goal" is that a vertical line dropped from the tool-tip passes through the center-point of a compound rest's pivot just slightly to the side closer to the operator than it is to the center of rotation of the work. lathe's long-axis.

    "Impossible"? Not always. But let's agree "mostly impossible."

    Nonetheless, the closer one can get to that as a goal, the better.

    If you ever-and-always do everything that IS possible ..to keep the tool tip "hang out" to the absolute MINIMUM?

    All that unspported lever-arm stuff has LESS leverage, LESS chatter, LESS vibration, LESS "spring" in a "spring pass"..and LESS opportunity to flex enough to suddenly convert a turning operation.. into a CRASH!

    Seriously. BRUTALLY SHORT hang-out is ever-and-always the goal. Not "just" on a lathe. A machine-tool is NOT yer dick. Pretty much the exact opposite, rather!

    "Perfect" minimum may not be possible.

    But if yah never quit TRYING to minimize stick-out?

    Life - on "light" lathes most of all - delivers more happy on-size parts sooner, and fewer nasty disappointments, later.. if ever-again.

    Short. Stiff. Predictable location, even under stress.

    Might think of it as the "clitoris" philosophy vs the "floppy-dick" philosophy?

    SOMETHING has to be in a predictable location whilst all that movement is going on, yah?

    Works well. Has worked well for a VERY long time, too!

    Goal for it!


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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Here's a "mental goal" for you with regard to tool-tip hang-out, then:

    "The Goal" is that a vertical line dropped from the tool-tip passes through the center-point of a compound rest's pivot just slightly to the side closer to the operator than it is to the center of rotation of the work. lathe's long-axis.

    "Impossible"? Not always. But let's agree "mostly impossible."

    Nonetheless, the closer one can get to that as a goal, the better.

    If you ever-and-always do everything that IS possible ..to keep the tool tip "hang out" to the absolute MINIMUM?

    All that unspported lever-arm stuff has LESS leverage, LESS chatter, LESS vibration, LESS "spring" in a "spring pass"..and LESS opportunity to flex enough to suddenly convert a turning operation.. into a CRASH!

    Seriously. BRUTALLY SHORT hang-out is ever-and-always the goal. Not "just" on a lathe. A machine-tool is NOT yer dick. Pretty much the exact opposite, rather!

    "Perfect" minimum may not be possible.

    But if yah never quit TRYING to minimize stick-out?

    Life - on "light" lathes most of all - delivers more happy on-size parts sooner, and fewer nasty disappointments, later.. if ever-again.

    Short. Stiff. Predictable location, even under stress.

    Might think of it as the "clitoris" philosophy vs the "floppy-dick" philosophy?

    SOMETHING has to be in a predictable location whilst all that movement is going on, yah?

    Works well. Has worked well for a VERY long time, too!

    Goal for it!

    Thanks, that was in my mind actually but I didn't have a cutter the right shape that could get in there and remove the ID. There was a small amount of springback on the return pass and so I made a bunch of cuts of .01 deep. At .012 and deeper there was a small bit of vibration. I needed to open it up from .375 to 1.125. My boring bars are too big. I opened up the hole with a large MT3 drill bit, I wanna say .75 Dia. That in itself was an interesting operation. I was going to start a thread somewhere about drilling deep and large holes with the tail stock. I am sure I am doing that wrong too but I wanted to do some searching on the internet first to get some ideas for questions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post
    I was going to start a thread somewhere about drilling deep and large holes with the tail stock.
    Dont even think about that.

    - First, if possible, try to make your starting holes to clear a tool or boring bar OFF the lathe, entirely.

    As a mere "clearance" hole, it is OK if it is a tad off-center - though one does try for the best yah can get. 3 foot, 5 foot, or even our EIGHT foot radial drillpress (it was "taller") to start holes for boring large work, even when the lathe had a 5 MT TS center, and POWER to move the massive TS.

    Light / medium lathe, "friction" grip TS to bed only? It WILL slip. It is MEANT to slip so yah don't destroy the important functionality of the TS by going overly GREEDY with a drill.

    - Next up, look to a monoblock that REPLACES the functionality of the compound to hold either of drills or boring bars. "Drill with the carriage". Now you have the stouter carriage, fast-acting manual traverse to "peck' and clear chip, POWER FEEDS, and are not putting the fragile anti-rotation keying of a tiny TS at-risk of destruction.

    - If you do NOTHING else, protect your TS with some external means of preventing rotational force off the drilling operation from damaging its key and keyway.

    Some form of anti-torque rod or bar or pin that "holds the holder" of the drill, be it a "drill chuck", or - far BETTER - a collet system. Cazeneuve HBX, the "pin" is already built-in. Other lathes, yah have to fab yer own, or lay a rod or a bar out to the bed or a carriage "wing" to prevent the chuck trying to spin with the drill. Epscially if the f**ker jams or seizes in the bore.

    Would I have ever been be so redneck-rude as to drop an ignorant PIPE wrench around a Jacobs chuck to control a drill's torque?

    Well f**k's sake... it was a clapped-out War ONE Niles "company" lathe, and I was just one more card-carrying Union operator of many who had helped beat the Old Girl a Helluva lot more than just "half" to death already, so "whatever got the job DONE".

    Even so, there are NICE examples of GOOD shop-fab torque control "Right here, on PM" if yah dig for that.

    It's worth the effort to do that research.

    "In general".. read all yah can find BEFORE yah post... less embarassing that way!

    Last edited by thermite; 05-24-2020 at 07:35 PM.


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