And So It Begins...

Day 1


And so it begins. I pulled all the covers off this morning. Then I took the back gear drive out. It was so easy. After reading about the problems others have had I didn’t know what to expect. Tapped the taper pin with an appropriate size punch and that was that. It and the bushing slid out easily. The bushing isn’t a split type either. It has a bolt pushing on a spring that pushes on a brass plug to hold it in place.

I did put grease in it back when I was using the lathe. But I didn’t trust it at the time. The plug is missing also. I did use the back gear a few times so it must have got warmed up. It’s hard to tell but it sure looked like the grease had found it’s way all through the assembly.


Now the oil in the main pulley is another story. I can’t remember what I put in it. I opened it up and poured in some kerosene. Very little would go in. I couldn’t feel any noticeable difference in the way the pulley rolled around with the king pin pulled. Where does that oil go? Is it trapped in there? Or does it run through the bearings and then where? I could blow some air down the hole and try to get the kerosene moving.

I cleaned off the oil residue from the back gear handle with some rubbing alcohol. After a few minutes I noticed it softened up the paint! A few minutes with a brass wheel on the drill and it was all gone. Did the same on the gear. A couple of coats of Tremclad Professional primer filled all the pits.

I used some Vasoline to coat the part that doesn’t get paint. Later it wipes off. I have some Rust-Oleum Light Grey and want to see what that will look like.

Enjoy!

Menessis

Do's and Don't

I think it's OK to use a fine brass wire wheel to clean the gunk out of the gears???? I have a 4" wheel on the drill, it makes quick work of soft paint on castings as well.

Menessis

Pulley Lube

Can some one explain how the lubrication in spindle pulley works. If you need to add oil every day it must drain somewhere right. I have added Kerosene and it's not going anywhere. I couldn't even get very much in there at all. I'm hoping it will soak in a break loose the old oil that I think is blocking it up.

Menessis

Are saying that you added kero into the oil cups? (painted Red in the photos) or into the oil hole on the cone pulley itself? You may want to look at Steve Wells 10" rebuild sticky thread. It will explain a lot for you I think.

but to answer your q. the oil that goes into the cups drains into a resevoir below the spindle, then is sucked up via capilary action wick to the spindle.

The oil galleys on that lathe are sure to be clogged. Best to pop the hole thing apart as described by Mr. Wells.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/new-10l-headstock-oilers-192623/


gp

Oil

Ya I put some kerosene in both places but am worried about the cone pulley. Not much would go in. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to pull it apart.

I will see if I can find the thread you told me about.

Thanks

Menessis

Hey M,

I put the link in my last post at the bottom. Taking the head apart is well worth the time and effort. Should not take more than a weekened then you'll have a good feeling that the spindle is getting oil. if there was not much change in level over night...and you turn the spindle and still no change in level after a while....chances are the galleys are clogged.

gp

Oil

Hi stnecut. I will take the spindle out of course. I have a rebuild hit on the way with all the felts

I'm talking about the spindle itself. The cone pulley where you take out the screw and add oil. I put in some Karosene and it just sits there. It's been a couple of days now. Maybe I can pull the pin and spin the spindle with a drill or something to get it warmed up and moving around it there.

BTW here is a pic of the model number plate. Ser. #C14249RKL. I tried to figure out what that all means but didn't get far.


Menessis

Menessis said:

...Ser. #C14249RKL. I tried to figure out what that all means but didn't get far.

Click to expand...

Have you already found this serial number reference page on Steve Wells' web site ? If not, it's well worth a visit (see also the links referenced therein):

http://www.wswells.com/serial_number.html

Hope this helps,

-- Jim

Cone Pulley

Ya jkmccarthy I was looking through all that. I get the RKL part. But the Date part doesn't add up for me. Looking at some pics that have the same cabinet as mine Im guessing 67 or 68. But the serial number comes around 65?

I warmed up the cone pulley with an electric heat gun. It spins around so easy! But that Karosene doesn't move. I pulled the screw out and it was under preasure from the heat. I didn't think to add that this thing is sitting in an unheated work shop a the moment. My bad.

Menessis

Day 2

Well I stripped all the paint from all the doors and covers. As well as the tail stock.

I made an "adaptor" to blow some air into my cone pulley. Filled it with some Karosene and let er rip. It did blow threw, I could see bubles back by the thrust bearning. Filled it back up and rolled the filler hole to the bottom to soak. Will blow some air in again tomorrow.

Menessis

Menessis said:

Ya jkmccarthy I was looking through all that. I get the RKL part. But the Date part doesn't add up for me. Looking at some pics that have the same cabinet as mine Im guessing 67 or 68. But the serial number comes around 65?

Click to expand...

Definitely go with the serial number. I don't know what your cabinet looks like (so the following may not be helpful), but since the serial number actually dates it to 1964 you might be interested in these South Bend Lathe cabinet options found in the 1963 (!!) catalog that I downloaded from Steve Wells' web site also:



(click on the picture to view a slightly larger version, if necessary to read better all the text). Does this help increase your comfort with the 1964 year of manufacture for your lathe ? The catalog itself is #6301E archived here:

http://www.wswells.com/catalog_index4.html

(although the index page says "3601" by mistake, not "6301" ...).

Hope this helps,

-- Jim

1963

That's cool. I was born in 63 but you figure 64. Mine is the top one pictured.

Thanks for figuring that out for me jkmccarthy!

Menessis

Removing Pins from information tags

Am I right in assumeing that these pins just drive out from the back? And what is the best way to go about it? My Tags are in good shape and want to keep it that way.

I did find this link here after my post:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...tory/removing-drive-screws-nameplates-115683/

Thanks

Menessis

Paint Colour

Have a look at the top of my thread here to see the green paint. Could that be the original colour? There is grey underneath but that could be the primer?

I got 4 pins out with a punch. The other 4, well not so much luck. The holes don't go all the way through!

Menessis

Menessis said:

Have a look at the top of my thread here to see the green paint. Could that be the original colour? There is grey underneath but that could be the primer?

Click to expand...

Hard to tell from the first picture, but is it green as far down into the inside of the headstock as you can see? On the other hand, I'm skeptical the green is original in view of the 3rd photo that reveals the end of the back gear shaft is painted green -- suggesting someone painted the lathe later, once it was assembled.

Others may be able to comment on your "grey primer" theory, but I can say that those doing full restorations in these pages ideally like to get down to bare metal and NOT apply a primer, as the alkalyd paint used does best when applied directly to the metal. So if the grey "primer" strikes you as tougher (more chip and/or solvent-resistant) than the green top-coat, I'd say it's more than likely the grey was the factory-finish color.

As you seem to have a keen interest in the past history of your lathe, you might want to place an order with South Bend (now Grizzly) for a PDF scan of the original serial number sales record from the factory files. The serial-numbers-wanted sticky thread contains numerous examples, to show you the sort of information this would furnish (for a $25 fee). FWIW, post #1105 in that thread documents mine (from 1940 ... no idea how much (or if) the form and/or content of these serial number cards changed over the decades, so YMMV ...).

Cheers,

-- Jim

Paint Colour

Hey Jim good eye. The green is an add on for sure. There is some orange and red on top of the green inside the belt cover. I'm going with Light Grey Rutoleum right out of the can.

The dealer I got this lathe from told me it was out of George Brown in Toronto. That's good enough for me.

Menessis

Update

My rebuild manual isn't here yet. Should be here tomorrow! Got all the doors painted (again). Can't wait to get this show on the road.

Menessis

Menessis,

I have exact the same model as yours. It is a 1964. I took it all to pieces to get it home. When I put the cabinet together I turned the middle piece over so that I had a shelf instead of the tub to catch dirt and swarf.

If you are going to remove the motor and under drive, it is easier if you remove the lathe from the cabinet and turn the motor leg up side down.

The bolts holding the headstock on to the bed are a bit awkward, but doable.

Mine was gray.

Paul

Rebuild

Manual still not here

I was thinking of lifting the whole machine off and getting the cabinet done whille I was waiting.

Menessis

I downloaded the catalog referred to above. One of the options offered by SB was custom paint colors, including multi colors, or SB would use paint supplied by the purchaser.

So, a factory paint job could be anything.

Amazing how much stuff was offered by SB in the catalog.

Many thanks to jkmccarthy for the reference to the catalog.

Paul