South Bend 13" Lathe Bearing Issues - Page 8
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  1. #141
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    Mr. Greenlee52, Sir
    Hey I'm kinda late to this party but why is there a gits cup on your front bearing cap ? You should be getting your oil to the bearings by capillary action, not drowning the bearing in oil. What oil are you using ? A 10wt spindle oil is the preferred oil ( mobil velcolite # 10 has been the standard for many years). Is your thrust bearing adjusted right ? Try loosening that a bit. ( it's the needle bearing looking thing next to the outboard spindle bearing. Just an old school way of doing things.. make every thing loose til in spins and then take shims out til it doesn't, then put them back til it does what you want it to do. ( hint if you run the wrong oil you will piss up a rope til the cows come home and frustrate yourself to near apoplexy ) Don't get wrapped up in numbers, just make it run and then do some work with it and if it meets the works requirement your good to go..
    Stay safe
    Calvin B

  2. #142
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    Green Lee, no issues friend. We’re here of our own accord. You will definitely figure that beautiful beast out and get her making chips I am sure of it. No one is disappointed or mad at you friend.

    “If your going through hell, keep on going”

    Best of luck and let us know if there’s anything else we can do to help you. I’d give the bearing rebuild a whirl myself with you if you was close by. I’m in Cincinnati so a bit of a stones throw, maybe a day-cation with the family in tow!

    Keep us updated!

  3. #143
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    Mr Greenlee , sir
    I hope this note finds you in good health.. Hey a time not so long ago when LeBlond had the rights to SB stuff I ordered a parts/service manual for my lathes. I'd like to extend to you the offer of a few copied pages from said manual regarding the bearings you are fighting with.. Just PM me if you don't want to post anything publicly.
    Stay safe
    Calvin B

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  5. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by calvin b View Post
    Mr. Greenlee52, Sir
    Hey I'm kinda late to this party but why is there a gits cup on your front bearing cap ? You should be getting your oil to the bearings by capillary action, not drowning the bearing in oil. What oil are you using ? A 10wt spindle oil is the preferred oil ( mobil velcolite # 10 has been the standard for many years). Is your thrust bearing adjusted right ? Try loosening that a bit. ( it's the needle bearing looking thing next to the outboard spindle bearing. Just an old school way of doing things.. make every thing loose til in spins and then take shims out til it doesn't, then put them back til it does what you want it to do. ( hint if you run the wrong oil you will piss up a rope til the cows come home and frustrate yourself to near apoplexy ) Don't get wrapped up in numbers, just make it run and then do some work with it and if it meets the works requirement your good to go..
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    Calvin, Good to meet you, just got back in town. I'm wore out and just got the PC fired up. Visited my Mom, 97 years old. The trip was long but going to grocery store is a long trip at times for me lol. I don't have any Gits in my bearing caps, it's still original all the way around. I am using Mobile #10 at the moment. TexasGunSmith had some great suggestions on using transmission fluid. HomeBrew suggested taking in the whole picture before doing something you can't undo. These 2 top notch machinist regardless of what they claim have been sticking with this thread helping me get this lathe running. The thrust bearing is set to .001, I have tried backing off a little at a time but .001 seems to work well but I haven't ran the lathe on more than 1 project. Yes sir you are right, get the wrong oil and you will be screwed up trying to fix it. I'm at that point of running it then recheck the numbers. I went out in the garage and as usual the oil is way low in the rear Git with the cup empty. I must have a leak somewhere because the headstock was caulked all the way around, I removed the caulking a long time ago. I noticed the Headstock bolts are not screwed in all the way on the underside, 3 threads showing in the front and 1 thread showing in the rear, oil dripping off the rear bolt all the time. I put some paper towel down un the bearing Gits and they stay soaked as well. Maybe I need to remove the head stock and see what's going on. This came up today. It's a never ending project for me. I'm trying not to get wrapped up in numbers when they change all the time, has to be a reason. Any way I appreciate your suggestions

  6. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by calvin b View Post
    Mr Greenlee , sir
    I hope this note finds you in good health.. Hey a time not so long ago when LeBlond had the rights to SB stuff I ordered a parts/service manual for my lathes. I'd like to extend to you the offer of a few copied pages from said manual regarding the bearings you are fighting with.. Just PM me if you don't want to post anything publicly.
    Stay safe
    Calvin B
    That would be great Calvin, very kind of you to offer. I'd like to learn and know all I can about what I am dealing with. I can't believe that out of all the South Bend 13" Lathes I picked this one. I have spent a good deal of funds trying to fix it instead of using it. But really there was a ton of hidden issues with this one. I have learned a lot from the Forum Members and I'm thankful to everyone who joins in with opinions and suggestions. Thank you Calvin, I bet a factory manual is very detailed and informative.

    Calvin couldn't send a PM, I used Hot Rolled, is that correct??
    Last edited by Greenlee52; 07-27-2021 at 07:12 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrewblob View Post
    Green Lee, no issues friend. We’re here of our own accord. You will definitely figure that beautiful beast out and get her making chips I am sure of it. No one is disappointed or mad at you friend.

    “If your going through hell, keep on going”

    Best of luck and let us know if there’s anything else we can do to help you. I’d give the bearing rebuild a whirl myself with you if you was close by. I’m in Cincinnati so a bit of a stones throw, maybe a day-cation with the family in tow!

    Keep us updated!
    Have a great vacation, enjoy the family and the time you have with them. Be Safe

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    Do you have 1 or 2 bolts for clamp that holds headstock to bed ?

    Unless there is a hole in the cast iron, the headstock should not drain empty.

    But I'm wondering if the bolt hole underneath for those clamps, maybe it got drilled too far and hit the oil passage. I'd pull the bolt and dry it well, put some silicone on threads and run it back up. See what happens.

  9. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Do you have 1 or 2 bolts for clamp that holds headstock to bed ?

    Unless there is a hole in the cast iron, the headstock should not drain empty.

    But I'm wondering if the bolt hole underneath for those clamps, maybe it got drilled too far and hit the oil passage. I'd pull the bolt and dry it well, put some silicone on threads and run it back up. See what happens.
    Hello TexasGun, it's 2 bolt. When I bought the lathe I noticed the caulking around the Headstock, it was painted over to match the lathe color. Couldn't imagine why it was caulked. I went to visit my Mom and was gone for 5 days. I check the Git at the rear and the cup was all the way down.

    Oil was dripping off the Headstock bolt or stud and the paper towels I put under the Oil Gits are soaked again but this has been this way since I bought it. I haven't been able to work on it since I got back but I did power it up to run it a little but when I saw more than normal oil dripping I thought I would ask about it. Didn't seem normal.

    I'll pull it out and do as you suggested, must be another well kept secret from a buyer

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    The gits will drain empty if the threads on the gits are not sealed, if the paper under the gits for wet then I would investigate both the head bolts and gits threads

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrewblob View Post
    The gits will drain empty if the threads on the gits are not sealed, if the paper under the gits for wet then I would investigate both the head bolts and gits threads
    Good idea HomeBrew, I was trying to determine if the Gits were leaking since I taped them a few weeks ago or if it's coming under the Headstock?

    The oil reservoir can't be that deep that the Headstock bolt would interfere with it can it? Is the casting underneath the Headstock part of the reservoir or is there another section of the casting that is? Anyway I'm off to look at it now and re-tape the Gits

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    I have read about cracked Reservoirs that leak through the bottom, I don’t think the head bolts would typically pass into the reservoirs but anything is possible. I would definitely heed Tex’s advice and thread seal them anyway.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrewblob View Post
    I have read about cracked Reservoirs that leak through the bottom, I don’t think the head bolts would typically pass into the reservoirs but anything is possible. I would definitely heed Tex’s advice and thread seal them anyway.
    I haven't done any sealing yet on the Gits. I discovered the HS bolts were not tight at all especially the front. I had to buy a socket to fit them first. I wasn't concerned about the HS moving because it was caulked all the way around. I removed the front caulking and a little of the caulking on the backside but there was still a few places holding it in place.

    Hot Rolled has joined the conversation adding good advice. I appreciate all of the suggestions coming in. I had to back off a few days and rest. Give some more thought to what's going on and what else I need to check to make sure it's tight and ready to go. Something Hot Rolled mentioned since I'm using a used but better spindle is a consideration for a break-in period. I'll add some more tomorrow.

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    QUOTE=texasgunsmith;3781261]Also I'm sure you mentioned it, but I forget. Which oil are you using ? If you're using spindle oil, change it for ATF. ATF is slightly heavier, but its slipperier . How's that for a word ? I had issues with spindle oil and spindle not rolling right. Same clearances, but with ATF spun very nice.[/QUOTE]

    I was thinking about the word you used Texas, Slipperier is a word so you are in the clear. It shows you are not on a slope but solid ground with a first class vocabulary. I was reading what you wrote but had to find it. When my wife and I lived in Clearwater Florida and I repaired the heads on the big catamarans that took people deep sea fishing I wanted to ask you if you did any repair work on the diesel heads like I mentioned, I'd like to know your method. Thanks




  15. #154
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    I hope all of you are doing well and are safe and healthy. Long story short and I'm not trying to launder all of our business. We have had some sadness with the loss of loved ones and miracle's that saved others in our family praise God. We have been out of town and returned this past

    weekend. I can't say enough for all the support and encouragement working on my South Bend 13" Lathe. A new comer joined in with some additional advice, "Hot Rolled" which also made a difference.

    I thought about what Homebrew had to say about not believing the numbers I came up with. Of course being the great newbie hobbyist machinist that I am I dismissed it and turned to my indicators thinking the constant change in clearance was because I didn't have good indicators. My bad

    completely. Homebrew you are completely correct on that observation. The problem was the headstock, I pulled off the front inspection plate and found the bolt was only hand tight but snug. It was not threaded completely into the headstock to begin with. What a difference it made when

    both ends were redone and tightened. Next after looking at a video that Hot Rolled sent on bearing alignment I loosened the front and rear bearing caps. The rear cap had a little amount of play in it. You could shake it around a little by hand to remove it without using a bar like the front one.

    I snugged the caps back and used my lead hammer and a piece of hardwood to tap the caps with. I would turn the spindle by hand and tap the cap in the rear side to side or front and back looking for a sweet spot which I found. Then tighten it down.

    It ran in all three speeds but the bearings got pretty hot, front and back, rear was 118* and the front was 98* First time the front bearing ever even got warm. I could turn the spindle by hand but it had resistance. I added shims evenly front and back a .001" at a time until it spun better and the

    temperature went down. Front and rear bearing are running at 95* each. So I'm going to leave it there and make chips to break in the new bearing. I am confident that all will go well running this lathe and it's going to run great. After the break in of the rear bearing, I'll run some numbers depending on how accurate my cuts are.

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