South Bend 16 Toolroom Lathe - The Adventure Begins... - Page 7
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 567
Results 121 to 133 of 133
  1. #121
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tobnpr View Post
    Use a VFD to power your 3-phase motor from your 220v single phase power.
    Wire your drum switch into the low-voltage controls of the VFD, and you retain all original functionality of the drum switch and eliminate the need for a phase converter.
    I read that in choosing a VFD over a different type of phase converter there is a reduction in motor RPM in one of the choices. Is this correct?

    EDIT: From my reading it looks like it's a reduced torque (not RPM) that can be encountered at lower RPM's but only on certain VFD's Is that right?

    Thoughts: I want to keep all the stock controls and switching and a good VFD looks great at first glance, unless I am missing some important details. Am I?
    Last edited by Kevin T; 09-09-2019 at 03:36 PM.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Minnesota
    Posts
    103
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    17

    Default

    In fact you can overdrive your motor with a VFD. By adjustin the carrier frequency either speeds up or slows down your motor.
    You will also find that the VFD option will be the most cost effecient. It also gives you many options compared to a static phase converter or rotary phase converter. It will give you the options to jog your spindle, spindle braking, adjustable speed control which is very nice, you can also wire up a safety stop button incase of an emergency.
    The VFD's are also relitevly easy to wire up. img_3422.jpg

    I got my inspiration from a member on this fourm by the name Thomas Utley.
    Here is a youtube of his control,
    YouTube

  3. Likes Kevin T liked this post
  4. #123
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    I have some info and questions going in the VFD forum so maybe some updated pics are in order while I figure that out?

    Found some original scrape marks under the headstock!

    Really nice work there!

    _nik631204.jpg

    _nik631305.jpg

    _nik631507.jpg

    This is about as far as I wanted to go cleaning up the headstock. It's pretty awkward to work with but I am ok with it.

    _nik633613.jpg

    _nik634118.jpg

  5. Likes texasgunsmith liked this post
  6. #124
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    Some tedious and delicate work to get the paint off of these!

    _nik634017.jpg

  7. Likes Sachmanram liked this post
  8. #125
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    1,586
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1940
    Likes (Received)
    618

    Default

    Hey Kevin,

    Your lathe is coming along nicely....

    Would you mind measuring the shaft on your taper attachment, that holds the bed clamp for me? Just the diameter and exposed length of the rod.

    Thanks...

    Brian

  9. #126
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sachmanram View Post
    Hey Kevin,

    Your lathe is coming along nicely....

    Would you mind measuring the shaft on your taper attachment, that holds the bed clamp for me? Just the diameter and exposed length of the rod.

    Thanks...

    Brian
    Do you mean this?

    img_6271.jpg

    img_6273.jpg

    img_6275.jpg

    I never got the shaft removed so IDK how long it is in it's stock form.

    Darn pictures flipped too sorry! It's 5.75 from main assy to the outrigger clamp body and 8.65 to EOP

    Got the diameter! Just under 7/8's ???

    The clamp body is a slip fit BTW, at least on mine.

    img_6277.jpg

    img_6276.jpg

  10. Likes Sachmanram liked this post
  11. #127
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    1,586
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1940
    Likes (Received)
    618

    Default

    Yes, exactly... Thanks Kevin

    Brian

  12. #128
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    I paused a bit to get a power plan going and picked up an American Rotary Phase converter to get the power to the machine. Next I need to figure out where to mount the control box for the RPC and the shutoff switch. I am kinda lucky that the lathe is on the same wall as my power main but I cant decide where to place the idler motor yet or the boxes! That is a busy wall!

    I also decided to take the motor out and clean and check the pedestal assembly real good. The motor has a lot of crap in it that I can see and I want some piece of mind.

  13. #129
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    Looking at my my motor wiring it is nice to see the crimp on tags that say T-2, T-3, etc! That will give me a little more confidence as I take it apart.

    _nik4364.jpg

    _nik4366.jpg

    Getting familiar with the RPC! I need to select a mounting location on my wall.

    _nik4369.jpg

    The things I collected for the eventual electrical hook up. I may not use the three phase cutout switch on the right. I am thinking that I may add a 4 prong twist lock connector to bottom of the RPC box and utilize the power chord that is already wired to the lathe. We have a less than stellar electrical grid out here so being able to physically disconnect things is peace of mind when electrical storms come through.

    _nik4370.jpg

  14. Likes texasgunsmith liked this post
  15. #130
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    535
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    284
    Likes (Received)
    180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post

    The things I collected for the eventual electrical hook up. I may not use the three phase cutout switch on the right. I am thinking that I may add a 4 prong twist lock connector to bottom of the RPC box and utilize the power chord that is already wired to the lathe.
    Really, pretty much anything you do can work as long as wires are hooked up correct. However running let's say 3/4" conduit, external of wall, from rpc to a 4 prong outlet that is close to machine would look more correct in an industrial sense. Then you could plug/unplug at will.

    You could place that breaker with throw lever somewhere in line of conduit as well, though machine will work without it. For safety I like it though. like if you lost 1 of the 3 legs in motor.

    Also if you happen to get another machine or three phase motor, you could make up your own extension cord to reach that outlet.

  16. #131
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by texasgunsmith View Post
    Really, pretty much anything you do can work as long as wires are hooked up correct. However running let's say 3/4" conduit, external of wall, from rpc to a 4 prong outlet that is close to machine would look more correct in an industrial sense. Then you could plug/unplug at will.

    You could place that breaker with throw lever somewhere in line of conduit as well, though machine will work without it. For safety I like it though. like if you lost 1 of the 3 legs in motor.

    Also if you happen to get another machine or three phase motor, you could make up your own extension cord to reach that outlet.
    Thanks for the ideas! I like idea of running a line out of the RPC and back in to an outlet. I was thinking about putting a 4 prong outlet on the bottom of the RPC box and plugging in there but that might make it crowded inside. I need to make a sketch of the area and think it through. I am having electricians look at the job and each one seems to see it differently. Also this is not a home I am going to live in forever and I'll probably take it all with me so I want it to look right in the event of removal too!

  17. #132
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Hawaii
    Posts
    224
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    96
    Likes (Received)
    33

    Default

    I don't see how to get the pulley belts off that sucker! The upper pulley is so close to the casting at the top rear edge there is no way to follow the restoration manual. I am wondering how these could ever be replaced if needed! I will give it a fresh look tomorrow but if there is some trick that I am missing please let me know!

  18. #133
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    535
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    284
    Likes (Received)
    180

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post
    I don't see how to get the pulley belts off that sucker! The upper pulley is so close to the casting at the top rear edge there is no way to follow the restoration manual. I am wondering how these could ever be replaced if needed! I will give it a fresh look tomorrow but if there is some trick that I am missing please let me know!
    The external handle for raising and lowering the whole motor drive assembly, including motor and pulleys above it, You use that handle to slide spindle belt to which ever step. With base upright in normal position, that handle at 12 or 1 oclock will have raised that upper pulley close to top back edge. Lowering that handle to 6 oclock will lower whole assembly including the motor drive pulley. Guessing if base is upside down, natural weight has dropped the handle to what is 12 oclock if base were upright.

    If even at 6 oclock the pulley is too close, there are adjustments for both motor to upper pulley, and whole assembly to get spindle belt tension correct. loosening or adjusting those may help.

    There are also set screws with lock nuts you access for outside the motor base housing. One on back side, one on chip pan side I believe. Those adjusters allow for whole underside fine tune to get alignment of spindle belt correct. Loosening those may also give you room to move assembly. I'd count threads, or turns loosened if you do this way, then same turns back to where it was when finished.

  19. Likes Kevin T liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •