South Bend MIL4218 milling machine parts needed

Hello all,
I recently bought a South Bend milling machine to go with my Heavy 10 and it is missing some of the table feed hardware.
It is missing the part(s) that mount to the front of the table and attach to what seems to be the engage lever on the right side under the table.
This poor thing has had a hard life and I am trying to get it back in shape. Any help would be great.

Thanks in advance,
John

When those machines were being built there weren't very many of them built with the power feed option, consequently your chances of finding parts or a parts machine are pretty much 0. My Dad bought one new about 1964 and the base machine was about $1800.00 if you wanted a power feed that was about $600.00 extra. I've never had a power feed on Dads machine and frankly it doesn't need one. The machine only has 1 HP so your not going to be removing that much material that your going to get sore from cranking.

About your only choice would be to get a parts book (SOUTH BEND Vertical Milling Machine Parts Manual: Ozark Tool Manuals: Amazon.com: Books) and reverse engineer and make the parts yourself.

SIP6A said:

When those machines were being built there weren't very many of them built with the power feed option, consequently your chances of finding parts or a parts machine are pretty much 0. My Dad bought one new about 1964 and the base machine was about $1800.00 if you wanted a power feed that was about $600.00 extra. I've never had a power feed on Dads machine and frankly it doesn't need one. The machine only has 1 HP so your not going to be removing that much material that your going to get sore from cranking.

About your only choice would be to get a parts book (SOUTH BEND Vertical Milling Machine Parts Manual: Ozark Tool Manuals: Amazon.com: Books) and reverse engineer and make the parts yourself.

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I agree, I was just hoping to find the parts to put it back close to original. Thanks for the information.

John

out of curiosity being i have never seen one and will be off to uklathe to cheek one out is there any possibility that your south bend mill shares any parts with any of the south bend lathes . well that did not work out like i that it would i could not find any info there .

is there any possibility that your south bend mill shares any parts with any of the south bend lathes

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Yes. The gearbox from a 9" or 10K has a re-labeled faceplate and provides the feed rate options.

Other than that, not much.

OP- sounds like you have everything you need, except the trip-off parts to run unattended?

That lever on the right provides L, N, R by gear shift position.

On the apron to the right side just sticking out the front, there should be a part that you can swivel to engage the feed from the gearbox and cardan drive. It won't stay if you don't hold it, but it can be wedged.....
Just don't forget to check back in time.

smt

stephen thomas said:

Yes. The gearbox from a 9" or 10K has a re-labeled faceplate and provides the feed rate options.

Other than that, not much.

OP- sounds like you have everything you need, except the trip-off parts to run unattended?

That lever on the right provides L, N, R by gear shift position.

On the apron to the right side just sticking out the front, there should be a part that you can swivel to engage the feed from the gearbox and cardan drive. It won't stay if you don't hold it, but it can be wedged.....
Just don't forget to check back in time.

smt

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Exactly right. It's the part mounted to the front/center "saddle maybe?" that is missing. I can engage the drive and hold it and it moves the table.
It's a neat old machine and head and shoulders above the import "mill" I have been using. Waiting on some 30 taper tool holders now.
Spending time cleaning all of the wheel bearing grease and grime out of all the passageways.
Looking forward to using something I can actually mill more than .010 at a time with.

Thanks,
john

There's a lot of stuff posted on these by me and others, including making (adapting) the 30MM holders from other 30 taper systems such as NMTB 30. The most practical approach is to get a ER40 or ER32 with an integral NMTB 30 shank, and mill the 2ea 45deg x 1/2" dia pockets.
I have both sizes since sometimes the 32 is easier to use with smaller tools, or fit in amongst fixturing more easily.
Do the same with a good 1/2" drill chuck.

Then keep collecting 30T solid sockets where every you find them.

It seems most of these mills came with a flush arbor for 1" bore tooling. They are really great tools, if your mill still has it. Otherwise, pick up stub arbors when seen in case needed later.

I don't really find lack of nod (like BP/clones) much of a factor, OTOH i there's a planer here for long angles.

The fact that the turret does not swivel can be limiting at times.

Do you have the hydraulic downfeed for boring?
That's a hoot. Again comparing to BP clones, quill travel is only 4", though.

Back to your powerfeed - if it all works, just use it with a wedge, or stand there & hold it. I've never made cuts long enough on a mill that i had to walk away, other that de-burring finished parts or prepping the next part sometimes.

If you find prints of the trip-off gadgetry, though, there's more than a few of us that might appreciate having a link to it.

smt

There is a man on here SBLatheman. He worked for South Bend Lathe for years, and is now selling parts. Would be worth your while to contact him and see if he has anything or could point you in the right direction.

Mine does have the Hydraulic feed, the pump and reservoir are missing though. I have a 30 taper to ER 32 adapter on the way and a few collets.
Also an adapter for a drill chuck. I will be working on milling out the pockets to hold the taper in this weekend.
If I do figure out something on the trip-off I will share it. If someone knows where I can pick up the spindle timing belt, I would appreciate it. I found a longer belt with .5 pitch and 3/4 wide and splicing it together to get the spindle moving.

John

jabramson said:

If someone knows where I can pick up the spindle timing belt, I would appreciate it. I found a longer belt with .5 pitch and 3/4 wide and splicing it together to get the spindle moving.

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I have an extra timing belt (NOS). It's marked DIAMOND CHAIN 9302 3/4 B131N1 It's probably 30 years old but isn't the least bit stiff. $25.00 PP

You can also get a new belt from Granger: BANDO Industrial Timing Belt, 330H075, Width - Timing Belts 3'/'4 in, Number of Teeth - Timing Belts 66 - 56KN87'|'330H075G - Grainger

I've checked the tooth count and pitch on the belt I have and this is the correct belt.

Thanks, I may take you up on that. I'll let you know soon.

John

jabramson said:

Thanks, I may take you up on that. I'll let you know soon.

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Sounds good.

When acquired maybe a dozen years ago (could be longer, time flies) the timing belt was on its way out, so i took it to a local saw, mill & power transmission supply shop. He looked at it, told me a price, I ordered 2, and they came about a week later. Fairly inexpensive. But again, quite a few years ago. I have used the mill a lot of hours since, the second belt is still hanging on the same nail unused "until". Point 1.) being, they seem to have been a common size. Point 2 is if the tension and tracking are good, they last a long time.

Mine did not have the hydraulic cabinet or unit either. If you look up old posts, i went to the auto junkyard and pulled a power steering pump out of (can't recall, but probably says in post) either a Ford 150 or Chevy 1500 PU. Mated it with a 1HP motor, and put a slug in the pressure relief to lower the pressure. It's probably still a little high, but works well. It might be possible to change pullies and run it slower, too. Either way, it will overheat a 1HP or less motor, &/or shear the woodruff drive key if pressure is too high.

Fun thing is the system is infinitely variable feed up or down, and instant rapid to retract is available.

That said, if you have another mill for offset boring head, or knee feed for same, it's a lot of work to adapt & add the hydraulics

smt

Thanks, I did see a post where someone had used a power steering pump (was probably yours) great idea.
I ready wonder if it is worth the effort, other than trying to get the machine closer to original.

John

Ted had the parts I needed to make my manual to a feed style machine.. I had to make some adapters to convert the table feed screw, but other than that, it works fine. Parts are RARE.. and therefore $$$$.

I do have the hydraulic unit, but need to replace the quill feed shaft, which Ted also had. I simply havent gotten to it yet.