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South Bend Model A or other?

millwrong74

Plastic
Joined
Jun 9, 2018
This beautiful SB lathe is my second one... so far. I also have a 13" which runs really well. My question here is about the "true identity" of the Model A. Is it a 9" or 10" or other? The name plate is all I have to go by, so I'm in need of some advice. The serial number is also included in these photos. There is a funky fiberglas pulley and back gear cover show here with a lub chart pop riveted on. I assume that was not a factory option, but I could be wrong. I would like to replace that with the regular separate cast iron covers which are available on Ebay, but I don't know the correct model designation. If any one can tell from these photos, I'd be most appreciative. If not I can take more and post them. Thanks. :)

The name plate is kinda buggered up on the stamping of the first two letters/numbers... so sorry 'bout that.(:< (
 

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Well the 9" or 10" question is pretty easy: Just take a scale and measure from the spindle centerline down to the closest bed way and see what it says. 9" lathe will be approx 4.5" while a 10" lathe will be approx 5.0"
 
NAR is 9 inch,friction feed apron,regular spindle. 56,909 puts it 1968. Gearbox chart shows CL 744A (16 speed).
The belt cover is factory, but only for a short while, i believe they went back to aluminum. Looks like a nice lathe.PB
 
Thanks so much. What does the 10 after the NAR mean? 10" ? So, can I use the cast iron gear covers from a 9" lathe on this guy? I hate that fiberglass cover, it's so chintzy. Ebay gear covers:
South Bend 9" Lathe Model A & B Headstock Gear Guards #2 | eBay

I have a another question regarding the AXA tool post handle pointing right smack into the chuck key on the tail stock. I've had it apart as far as I can take it, but there seems to be no way to get at the internals to change the orientation of the handle OR if that is even possible? I am willing to drill a new hole at a better position, but will have to drill on the sloped conical face of the holddown assembly. I think I can do that if it's the best solution..... I may live up to my user name on that attempt. (:< (
 
Regarding the post above ^

I described a conflict with the tool post lock down handle and the tailstock above. I tried to remove the conical piece the handle is screwed into with no success. The pistons rotate when I attempt to unscrew the Allen bolts. Nothing else indicates how it may come further apart:
 

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Thanks so much.....

I have a another question regarding the AXA tool post handle pointing right smack into the chuck key on the tail stock. I've had it apart as far as I can take it, but there seems to be no way to get at the internals to change the orientation of the handle OR if that is even possible? I am willing to drill a new hole at a better position, but will have to drill on the sloped conical face of the holddown assembly. I think I can do that if it's the best solution..... I may live up to my user name on that attempt. (:< (

I described a conflict with the tool post lock down handle and the tailstock above. I tried to remove the conical piece the handle is screwed into with no success. The pistons rotate when I attempt to unscrew the Allen bolts. Nothing else indicates how it may come further apart:


Is there a better place to ask this question than on the South Bend forum?
Does anyone know how to disassemble a QCTP, I don't know if an Aloris or a knock off. I just need to reclock the locking handle to around 4:00 o'clock rather than 1:00 o'clock. I'd rather not drill a new hole, but if it comes to that, I'll try.

Believe me I have searched the web without success, including asking for PDFs assembly drawings and searched for images, nothing even close. The dang thing went together from the top, so it would seem that it would come apart from the top as well, but I could be wrong.
You guys are the experts, so that's why I'm asking here. Thanks!
 
It's very simple (on my wedge type import anyway).
Remove the tool post from the lathe.
Unscrew the top nut and remove the center shaft with it's T-nut from the post.
Hold the tool post upright in one hand and turn the handle until the 2 toothed jaws are wound down to the bottom - your hand will stop them from dropping right out.
Now, if you continue to turn the handle say a quarter turn then rewind it to pull the jaws back in you will get a new position. Keep doing this until you find the right "quadrant" of the turn and your handle is positioned as desired.
 
I have a piston type tool holder and that may work, or not..... I appreciate the reply. Rotating the handle while holding the body upright seems only to move the pistons in and out through each quadrant as you suggest. I'll try to see what happens in the morning. Thanks.

It should be that simple! Hah Hah.... but, it's a highly classified secret. No directions came with my off Ebay unit unfortunately. There is no apparent way for it to come apart either. I didn't want to pry on the top cap which seemed like the only logical access to the internals. No directions for dissassambly either, at least that I could find. Weird.
 
You gotta take the piston "pads" off first...IIRC they are usually secured with socket head screws....or on some they are tapped so you can insert a screw and pull out on the pads to release the cam body.
 
You gotta take the piston "pads" off first...IIRC they are usually secured with socket head screws....or on some they are tapped so you can insert a screw and pull out on the pads to release the cam body.

I removed the Allen screws and pads from the pistons, but they are spring loaded and attached to something internal, the cam probably, and didn't want to come out. If I pulled too much I was afraid the spring would stretch or break, but they wouldn't release. Then, because they can spin, the Allen screw wouldn't restart in the piston, and that scared me. Finally, I was able to get it started and threaded back in, so I left it that way, but at least it still worked.

I wonder if the dang thing was busted in the first place, and that's why is was sold?
 
On mine, the screws hold the pads on and are screwed into the round pistons. These will spin in certain orientations and wouldn't restart when I removed them and took off the pads. It scared me that I wouldn't be able to get them back on, but after some fiddling with it, the one screw did restart.

Is this such an uncommon issue with these, so much so that there is no information on how to fix it? I wonder how the handle got in the wrong position to start with. Certainly no one wants it interfering with the tailstock.
 
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I have the 16 speed v-belt as well, a big advantage over the older flat belts. Able to transmit a lot more torque- I swapped out the old 1/2 horse motor on mine for a new 1 HP, 230v inverter-duty motor with VFD and I can stall that motor before a belt slips.
 
My cast iron gear train covers arrived today. I'll see if they fit shortly, but I'm not opposed to drilling new holes or other modifications to make them work. I hate that fiberglass cover mentioned above.
 
Indeed they are there!

A dry fit before sanding and painted showed they will work and holes line up! I'll post a photo after the paint dries and they are installed. Hoooray! :)

After further review one set of holed lined up, the others did not and required drilling for 10-32 and tapping. Kinda intimidating drill into your headstock over the bull gear cam....

Photos to come.
 
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Fitting the gear train covers

The left side gear cover fit just fine after about 1/8" was ground off the the casting boss for the bearings. It served no real function except to reinforce the casting, but would not allow the cover to fit down all the way so the screw holes would align. I ground it off, and it fit just fine.

The other side wasn't so easy. When the casting was aligned over the gears with adequate clearance on either side, the existing screw holes would not align. I marked the location of the new holes using a drill under power, leaving a slight depression. I then drilled completely through the front face and because the bull gear eccentric was just below the top hole, I had to use extreme caution to not drill into the shaft. About 5/16" was all I could go, but that was enough to thread the hole for a 10-32 stainless socket screw, the same as I used on the other holes. They look great and a whole lot better than that fiberglass cover!! The reversing switch needed to be relocated, but there were existing holes that almost lined up on the end cover. A bit of hand work with a small rat tail and BAM, it fit! This part of the project is done, thankfully.

BTW, my new QCTP holder arrived a day early and it looks like it will with work without the handle bumping into the tail stock. (: < D
 

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Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum. Actually I'm new to using metal lathes in general. Can anyone tell me about this lathe in picture. I am picking it up for a decent price I think. 700 dollars with tooling. Any thoughts. I know it's a south bend model a catalog number cl 744 a. I know they are a good brand, but I'm looking more for info on is it worth the price tag
 

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537, for that price grab it and run. It is the desirable A model with the quick change gearbox and large dials. Usually you see these listed for $2000 to $3000. It looks like it is all there and probably runs well. One thing we look at is bed wear. But this one seems to have minimal wear and use. Any broken parts are easy to find and you'll get countless hours of fun with the thing. Set it up, de gunk it, probably feed it a felts kit https://www.ebay.com/itm/150497962557?hash=item230a60aa3d:g:2rYAAOSwV0RXq9RE and run it.
 
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