South Bend reversing drum switch
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  1. #1
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    Default South Bend reversing drum switch

    Greetings

    I believe the the reversing switch on SB 9 inch lathes is a Furnas R44 drum switch.

    Can anyone tell me the difference between the Furnas R44 and the Furnas R44R. I can't seem to find what the extra "R" designator signifies.

    Also, I'm looking for the switch spring and spring lever (i.e., the components that toggle the switch in the forward/OFF/reverse positions) for my SB drum switch. If anyone has a broken switch that has these components, I would be interested.

    Cheers.

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    Sorry I can't help, but I'm always amazed at how expensive those period-correct Furnas switches are!
    And I really dislike the Daytons! What junk!
    BTW, the switch and motor on my 1959 9" Model B is General Electric, for what that matters.

    PMc
    Last edited by mcload; 12-17-2020 at 06:41 PM.

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    Splinter, do you have pictures of what you are looking for? (the spring and lever) Jim

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    Hi Jim,
    Unfortunately, the parts are missing from my switch. I sniped this picture from a Youtube video to give you an idea however:
    switch-lever-spring.jpg

    The Youtube video can be found at Vintage - R44 Furnas Switch Repair - YouTube

    The little roller on the end of the lever indexes with notches on a plate in the contact cylinder. I'm not sure how the lever is held in place or what it fulcrums against as I don't see any feature in the housing endcap (any information in this regard, is appreciated).

    As previously indicated, these switches are crazy expensive. The R44R versions seem to be cheaper, but I don't know what makes them different from the R44 version. My switch is in great condition but is missing these two parts. Hoping someone can help.

    All the best to everyone,
    Splint

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    Looks like the rotor of that switch is not there. The enclosure and the stationary contacts are all you have.It will be a project to get the switch working.
    Reversing the spindle of a screwnose lathe is probably not really a good idea, the possibility of the chuck coming off the spindle is not pleasant.I have four of those switches, Three of them are in drawers and one of them is just being used as a single pole switch to start my 13" SBL.I am using the reach over setup on the 13 but will change it to a switch at the tailstock end of the machine My SBL 9 and my Le Blond regal are already set up that way A common light switch will do what you need to do. If you want to restore the old switch, it can be used either way. For now put a light switch in there and start making chips.

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    Yoy want the R44.

    The R44R,i believe, makes it a momentary switch-- It stays on as long as you hold the switch in the on position. Otherwise the spring returns the switch to off.

    Lost

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    Thanks Lost for the explanation.

    If anyone has a trashed switch with the two components, please PM me. Please note the picture I posted is from Youtube. My switch has everything (i.e., including roller) except the spring and spring lever.

    Best,
    Splint

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    Check your yellow pages for electric motor shops.

    Yellow pages as you want an existing company that may have a scrap house.

    We have such a place in Fresno and we found that switch and a box to mount our VFD in a back unsigned warehouse.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by k3vyl View Post
    ...but will change it to a switch at the tailstock end of the machine. My SBL 9 and my Le Blond regal are already set up that way
    Now that's a great idea!!

    I never liked the original "reach-over" placement of my switch, nor anywhere around moving gears and such.
    The tail end is a perfect place, uncluttered and out of the way. I can also locate the switch anywhere along the ways that I want.
    I would think you will always want the option of reverse in case its ever needed.

    PMc

    lathe-switch-2.jpg lathe-switch-1.jpg

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    Very nice work there Mc. When OSHA came in the reach over thing went out. Got that from a former LeBlond service man who was selling me SBL parts at LeBlond Limited a number of years ago
    My father was a wood turner. Things fly off of a wood lathe. He always used a face shield, and that's still the way its done. He always had me wire the lathe up with the switch waist level toward the tailstock. Get clear first then worry about turning the thing off. This thread reminded me that I need to relocate the switch on my SBL thirteen.

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    Thank you sir for the kind words.
    I thought I'd try to be helpful by providing some item numbers from McMaster-Carr for the parts I used
    on this set-up. Of course, there are many ways to skin this cat.

    Clamp-on Framing Fitting (aluminum) ($31)
    MC #9578T32

    Aluminum Plate: ½" x 2.5" x 6" ($7.75)
    MC #8975K477

    Motor Windings Cable; 16 GA, 5 wire (10 feet @ $2.25 a foot)
    MC #7081K87

    Cord Grips, ½" knockout size, ($9.50 ea)
    MC #7529K303
    (Pay attn to cord diameter size!)

    SB 9" Gear cover guard door mount hinge bracket; about 30 bucks on Ebay
    These are GREAT for mounting lights, accessory/collet trays, etc. to your lathe.

    -----------------

    Clearly, you'll need to turn down some aluminum stock for the vertical shaft; Delrin would
    work too. You'll need .75" diameter on one end for the flange, and .5" diameter on the other for the ways bracket.
    Of course, you determine your own preferences for height.
    (It was always my intention to add a bit of design to this shaft, perhaps some long tapers that met
    in the middle, aka "hourglass" shape. Or perhaps a few spaced bands of knurl or maybe some groups of slits.
    I don't have a taper attachment, so would have had to offset the tailstock to cut the tapers. I got lazy and blew it off.)

    The switch and rear flange mount to the aluminum plate via machine screws; say #10-32's. I didn't
    have any alum plate stock this size, so it was just as easy to order a small piece from MC, then trim the length
    to about 3.75". A threaded knob would be better on the door hinge bracket instead of the square-head screw;
    quicker and easier to loosen and move.

    I ran the cable from the motor to the back of the cabinet (where my drawers are), then through the cabinet interior across to the tail end, and out
    the backside where they come up to the switch. (see photos). There are two other lines for 110v in my case. One is for wall power to an outlet
    junction box inside my cabinet, the other for power to the switch itself.

    I remember a hassle with tightening the ½" knockout nuts to the INSIDE (bottom) of the Dayton switch.
    There was very little room for the nuts to spin freely. I would suggest you first tighten these knockout
    nuts, then attach the switch to the alum plate, then make final wiring connections to the switch contacts.

    Moving this switch was very high on my list of changes to make next time I refreshed the lathe. It was right
    in line with the chuck and always got nasty from swarf and oil slinging onto it, and it made clean-up that much more difficult.
    Although in theory, reaching over the spinning work is about the worse thing you can do, I never recall any close calls as a result.

    I never liked the South Bend options of the switch being mounted on the cone pulley guard, nor down on the ways very close to the lead screw.
    Having this switch near the bed end (and adjustable) has been great!

    I think that just about covers it...not rocket science (a good thing for me).

    PMc

    lathe-cabinet-wiring.jpg lathe-switch-1.jpg lathe-switch-2.jpg motor-cable-connector.jpg cable-connect-back-cabinet.jpg

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    I had to replace mine after one of the plastic parts inside broke. I got a replacement made by Relay and control corp on Zoro for $50. Well worth the money. It's like an exact copy. The model is RS-1A-SH. Relay And Control Corp. RS-1A-SH $49.95 Reversing Drum Switch with Handle | Zoro.com

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    Thank you Vicfi!

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    img_6271.jpgimg_6270.jpgimg_6269.jpg


    Is this what you are looking for?
    Let me know.

    Joe

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  18. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe21 View Post
    img_6271.jpgimg_6270.jpgimg_6269.jpg


    Is this what you are looking for?
    Let me know.

    Joe
    that's a nice one vary little ware on the contacts whoever ends up with that is going to get a cool set up clamp and all

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    Hi Joe,

    I'm not sure what model switch that is but I don't think it is a R44. It kind of looks like an R22, but I don't think it is that either.

  20. #17
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    Further, close inspection with a magnifying glass, the red metal outside tag indicates it is Style "RSB2". On the inside wiring diagram it says Style R1 drum switch.


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